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Burning Oil

10K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  peva 
#1 ·
Just wondering if anyone has come across this scenario, been losing a bit of oil ended up being just under 2 quarts low after 4k miles. I noticed when I heard the upper lifters ticking...

First noticed the oil bunig smell when I installed my K&N, I disconnected the blowback line into the intake but no difference.

Get a burning smell under WOT, doesn't matter if its at 5k or 3k rpm. Anyone ever have a similar issue? Hope I haven't burnt out a ring, car still runs fine although since the low oil scenario the idle has been slightly rougher. Upper lifters tick is slightly noticeable only when hood is up as compared to the 3.2L in my concorde, but I'm not sure if I'm just paranoid since I'm pretty sure I cannot destory the 3.2L.

Could it be a bad PCV valve? I don't see what else it could be other than the special PCM straining the hell out the 3.5L.

I'd hate to have to transplant the 3.2L into the trep.
 
#2 ·
No external leaks?

If not, likely PCV valve and/or hoses or valve stem seals. Any smoke out the exhaust at startup or when you punch it after decelerating (you can't always see it from the driver's seat - people following you would really see it).
 
#3 ·
Nothing on the ground, although the front on the plenum looks fairly oily.

Just weird never had a problem burning oil on the Concorde, and I drive that car like I stole it. This one I have to drive conservitely due to the lousy mileage.

One thing i kind of noticed though is the upshift from 1st to 2nd the engine seems like it just goes past redline, maybe due to having 3.66 gears instead of the 3.89s the PCM is programmed for.
 
#5 ·
I used to get a burning oil smell coming off the highway. Oil was being consumed but no leaks on the ground. The cause was a thin crack in the oil pressure sender. With the high oil pressure of highway driving oil would leak out the crack, drop down onto the right exhaust and burn up. Low speeds and idle didn't generate enough pressure for oil to leak out the crack. I imagine over time the crack may have gotten bigger until it would have, or even catastrophically failed, but I replaced with a new oem sender first. I wasn't able to see the crack itself, only the presence of oil on the sender after some high speed revving in the laneway. Some good folks have posted more information about where the sensor is, if you think it's worth checking out.
 
#6 ·
I used to get a burning oil smell coming off the highway. Oil was being consumed but no leaks on the ground. The cause was a thin crack in the oil pressure sender...worth checking out.
Good point.

Also - you say the front of the plenum is wet with oil. If you have the Manifold Tuning Valve, it is probably its o-ring leaking oil. That could be your problem. My 3.2 had that leak (it is common), and the oil would find its way to the undercarriage (almost invisibly drip down the front of the engine).

Here are the o-rings - Viton (premium material), bag of 10 for about $6 with shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viton-Rubbe...draulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item2554b2802d#shId
Very easy to replace.
 
#10 ·
So I finally got around to doing a compression test, 170 to 180 psi on cyl 2,4,6 which was fine, then 1,3,5 was 180, 170, 80.

threw down some oil into cylinder 5, compression went back up to 180.

Replaced the plugs while they were out, cylinder 1 & 5 showed some oil burning, cylinder 2 was running a bit lean.

Basically just did a quick tune up, put in half a quart of ATF with the motor oil and ran it for 10 minutes. New plugs and upped the weight of the oil to 10w-30.

I'm giving it a couple of weeks to see if I should bother decking the heads if oil consumption is still an issue. But not sure if cylinder 5 piston ring is done.

Lastly no misfires, no codes.
 
#11 · (Edited)
This is the only problem of my car. I am losing oil 200ml per 300 miles of run. No leaks and I checked my hood and the PCV valve looks fine and the hose looks fine... I am not seeing any problems at all where the oil goes and all of my hoses are intact. It just disappear and can't figure where it goes... I need some help. I hate putting oil in my car once a week.

Possible Problem:
1) Intake valve seal
2) PCV Valve
3) Piston Rings
4) Oil Sender
5) Oil Gaskets

?????
 
#12 ·
You say PCV good, and no external leaks. Points to valve stem seals.

Was the PCv valve ever replaced? If it was, and with an OEM one, there is defect in some of those that will definitely cause oil usage.

Any smokey exhaust at startup or when accelerating, like to pass, after decelerating? With the lack of rear visibility, from the driver's seat, you may never see it, but someone driving behind you would if it's happening.
 
#13 ·
I just fixed mine I was loosing oil and smelling it burn but not out the tail pipe! I didn't have any visual leaks! It took a little over a year until it got bad enough I could find it! Both valve covers were leaking in the back corners and dripping on the manifolds and the cat's and I found oil around the spark plugs so I replaced and sealed the tubes and new valve cover gaskets! So far no smells and no leaks but I've only driven it 1200 miles! how many miles on he car? I have 206000 on mine!
 
#14 · (Edited)
Interesting to see this thread kicking around.

For my problem it is indeed burning quite a bit, but it varies depending on my driving habits (i.e. how badly I beat the car).

I'm starting to think that it probably is valve seals on the passenger side head, because I think the K&N filer I installed had a pinch in the crank vent hose (which eventually cracked, the original line used for the factory airbox) probably from building up too much pressure and causing a ruptured seal on cylnder 5.

Car is still chugging along, if it survives the winter it will have some TLC in summer 2013. Got to meet up with a fellow member with an LHS whom installed 1st gen manifolds and the two cars were dead even from a roll.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Valve Stem Seals cost $1500 to replace including the labor. Plus if that is not the cause, it is probably the piston rings which adds up to $3000 of repairs. I bought my car for $3500, and the cost of repairs cost more than the cost of my car. My mechanic suggest that if I could not afford the cost of repairs, just check the oil dip stick once a week and add oil (Penzoil Ultra is what I use). I've been adding oil 1-2 quarts/month for 8 months and I did passed the smog test. The white smoke only comes off when I am on idle but not when I am starting the car or running. When I smell the white smoke that comes out the tail pipe, it smells NOTHING like it is burning or maybe it is just the condensation because I always see small amount of water (H20- Clear) that is coming out my tail pipe which makes me think that it is not the Piston Rings. Thanks guys.
 
#24 ·
...You certainly don't need to tear down the whole engine to do valve stem seals.
Exactly. Valve covers and rockers need to come off - pretty sure the cams can stay in place on the 3.2/3.5 (not so on the 2.7). Figure about 1 hr. per cylinder - I would think a professional should be able to do it faster.

For DIY (or the pro), I highly recommend filling each cylinder with 3/16" string as you work on them one at a time and rotating the crank to compress the string against the cylinder head to hold the valves up. That way you don't need to have an air compressor, nor do you have to worry about the valves falling into the cylinder if the compressor fails or you lose power in the middle of the job. The seals themselves (OEM or Felpro) and new valve cover gaskets should be less than $100. A special type of valve spring compressor is needed for these engines - generic ones don't fit in the tight spaces around the springs. Can recommend a couple of different ones.
 
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