I'm at a crossroad....what would you do - Page 2 - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat

GTXKen · 11-20-2012, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmccul

I've only done the rear cam seals...

tell me more

EagleESI · 11-20-2012, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTXKen

This ones a Trep, how would cam seals be different?

Clearly one looks better than the other DUH.

**cdmccul** · 11-20-2012, 11:16 PM

I think Devan was asking which type of LH it was as to whether you fix it or part it.

As for the cam seals - I did them with the engine out of the car - you can do with with the engine in, I would probably suggest removing the cowl and wiper bucket, then the air intake box (but leave the upper plenum in place), and then change them. They are a three bolt plate, with an o-ring behind the plate. The o-ring gets hard and ineffective. There is an upgradeded rear plate available for the second gen 3.5, that would apply to the first gen cars - removes the o-ring and puts in a gasket... OR, use the right size o-ring - I found one in a plumbing section of a hardware store to fix mine - lasted till the engine trashed itself at least.

GTXKen · 11-21-2012, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EagleESI

Clearly one looks better than the other DUH.

Nice....LOL

GTXKen · 11-21-2012, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmccul

I think Devan was asking which type of LH it was as to whether you fix it or part it.

As for the cam seals - I did them with the engine out of the car - you can do with with the engine in, I would probably suggest removing the cowl and wiper bucket, then the air intake box (but leave the upper plenum in place), and then change them. They are a three bolt plate, with an o-ring behind the plate. The o-ring gets hard and ineffective. There is an upgradeded rear plate available for the second gen 3.5, that would apply to the first gen cars - removes the o-ring and puts in a gasket... OR, use the right size o-ring - I found one in a plumbing section of a hardware store to fix mine - lasted till the engine trashed itself at least.

The manual has nearly no information about the rear seals. I read a few threads here and have an idea of whats involved. The front seem more involved because of the covers and pulleys but not a huge deal.

I found what I believe are the correct mopar parts online and its an inexpensive project at least. The other part is getting the cam alignment tool which I found for like $50. Just not sure if I want to invest the time. I should really take a couple pictures of this car for you guys, its really a wreck. Rusty and every panel dented, hard to get motivated to work on it.

**cdmccul** · 11-21-2012, 12:29 PM

Might be worth it to park it for parts - or yank the motor and other good major items for stockpiling, and pitch the rest of it.

As for the cam alignment tools, I personally think there are ways to do it with out the alignment tools - but sure, accuracy goes down.

GTXKen · 11-21-2012, 04:27 PM

I just got home from looking at two base 3.3 intrepids, The first one was pretty clean except for some rocker rust, had 189K and a knock on start up, they were asking $1200, I just sent them an offer of $300 The second had a completely rust free body, one QP dent and a couple scratches, 98K and runs smooth, they were asking $1500 and I havent made an offer, both are pulling codes I haven't read yet.

**cdmccul** · 11-21-2012, 04:31 PM

A knock and rusty rockers for 1200??? wow - have I got a deal for you! Yea, $300 is about right.

Thinking about doing a 3.3->3.5 swap on the knocking 3.3? You'll need to make sure the years match, or you'll need to make sure you have access to some other parts (computer mainly).

GTXKen · 11-21-2012, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmccul

Might be worth it to park it for parts - or yank the motor and other good major items for stockpiling, and pitch the rest of it.

As for the cam alignment tools, I personally think there are ways to do it with out the alignment tools - but sure, accuracy goes down.

Body and interior is so toasted I would part it, I know what I put in it and would pull all those parts along with motor and trans and every possible part I could unbolt. The rest I would just cut up with a saws-all and haul in for scrap.

I read the threads, I'd just rather have the tools

**cdmccul** · 11-21-2012, 04:33 PM

For $50, the tools are worth it especially with your fleet.

GTXKen · 11-21-2012, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdmccul

A knock and rusty rockers for 1200??? wow - have I got a deal for you! Yea, $300 is about right.

Thinking about doing a 3.3->3.5 swap on the knocking 3.3? You'll need to make sure the years match, or you'll need to make sure you have access to some other parts (computer mainly).

Yeah, I'd consider the 3.3 to 3.5 swap. I could do the seals on the motor out of the car and then pull all the harness out of the 97 3.5 and put it in the 93 3.3 car. Or pull the 3.3 and do the bottom end. I don't know, either way its worth $300 and thats all.

I still have another to look at........and there are more out there

**cdmccul** · 11-21-2012, 11:06 PM

Would be quite a strip-out and rebuild, but I wanna see it done... Would be much simpler to get the 93 3.5 computer and swap around dime pins.

Will be keeping an eye on this!

EagleESI · 11-21-2012, 11:59 PM

Why does everyone want a 3.5? Want something that will give more mpg and less headaches 3.3 way to go. Not to mention the absolute ease of working on it.

**cdmccul** · 11-22-2012, 12:05 AM

I think in his case it is a matter of finding a dead car for a live motor... what he has is a 3.5 running, and happened to find a dead 3.3 car to receive it.

He seems to have both cars there...

I don't know - I don't think the 3.3 and 3.5 driven the same way have much of a real fuel mileage difference. I have NOT ridden in a prepped 3.3 car - but I can tell you bare stock 3.3 and 3.5 - night and day difference in zip... Maybe a prepped 3.3 like you or Dave have (had) would be a bit different, but then, I think you'd have to prep a 3.5 the same way for an apples to apples comparison.

GTXKen · 11-22-2012, 12:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EagleESI

Why does everyone want a 3.5? Want something that will give more mpg and less headaches 3.3 way to go. Not to mention the absolute ease of working on it.

I have 1 3.3 car and it is much more simple. I only suggest a 3.5 as a transplant because I have one in a really rough body. I'd really like to buy the $1500 3,3 car with 98K on it and have a second 3.3 car and just part the one with a rough body.