ALSO - when you go to install it in your car, fully service it - meaning drop the pan (if you didn't already before buying), and install a new filter. Pull the TC off and empty it as best as possible (be mindful of installing the TC - it has to go past three indexing points, not just two, when re-installing!). Lastly, but just as important, while it is off the car, drop the differential fluid and re-fill with a good high grade gear lube (not sure what is spec'd, but I'd use a high end marine fluid or the full synthetic stuff Ford wants.
Sorry, Index is the wrong word - when you slide the TC back on the input shaft, it has to line up to three things - the clutch lockup spline, the main drive spline, and then the pump spline (double D index).
Then the ford fluid - I know that Ford Truck rear ends (mid 90s and up) require a premium synthetic gear lube (had to use it on my moving van I had). I guess I'd use that in our differential cases myself, but I'm sure a standard 80w90 would be fine too.
thanks very much for the information and advice. I'll try and get the harness for the transmission - no use to its current owner anyway once I take the transmission - and then there's flexibility to switch them if needed.
He's selling a bunch of stuff, front/rear wheel bearings, struts, rotors, calipers, 2 radiators, starters, alternators, tie rods, etc. Plus all the sensors for 2.7 engines. Thinking maybe I should see what else I should pick up that might come in useful. My back rotors are maybe a bit tired.. Any thoughts on what would be a goodie to get? I have a 2.7 as well as a 3.5..
I have another question about putting in the transmission from the 2.7 into my 3.5. On my gearshift as well as the P/R/N/D I also have 3 and L for locking it into lower gears. Could this affect my ability to move this 2.7 transmission into my car or would I need to get other parts from the 2.7 to make it work? Thanks for all the help.
thanks very much for the information - panic over!!
I'm picking up the parts on Sunday. Actually going for the '99 transmission as that's out of the car already whereas for the 2000 he was wanting a lot more money as it's still in the car. Also picking up some struts and a set of rotors and calipers as spares.
thanks very much for all the help on this. I actually managed to get a pretty attractive deal on getting this all fixed. I bought the '99 transmission plus a set of rotors and calipers plus an entire exhaust system in superb shape plus the axles on the tranny for $150 and then I found a local tranny specialist charged just $300 plus materials - much better than spending days doing it myself. Result is car works great and the fix cost me less than $600 and I have a very useful bunch of spares! Tranny specialist says the transmission is a peach, the pan really clean and the differential very smooth. He used the existing wiring harness. Thanks again for all the advice, really helpful.