[rallyrrr]

Hi, Guys. I'm from SW Arkansas and replacing an engine in an '04 Intrepid that was given my daughter after she totaled her '96 Integra 4 dr. SE. The engine is seized up from a youth smashing the oil filter while traversing a built-up r/r crossing at speed I would assume and continuing to drive the car.

My hobby is tuning and modifying scooters and I own an '02 Derbi Atlantis. Crazy thing is I'm 61 y/o. Lol.

My dad and older brother used to be MOPAR owners for several years and while married we had a '96 Voyager van 3.0 (not too many happy memories with that one I hate to say).

Anyway this looks like a great forum and I'll be counting on you guys for some expert guidance.

I'm Pro Rally, WRC, rallycross, and road racing fan. My initials are RRR. Thus my screen name rallyrrr.

Reg

[Daytrepper]

Welcome from NC!

[beeblebrox82]

welcome! Stay 02-04 years for a direct swap. Great time to put a 3.5L in there if it didnt have one before!

[DrDodge]

welcome ,, we have the engine swap specialest here,,Daytrepper, hes done a couple,,,,, of hundread,,

[crypt keeper]

Welcome to the site!!!

[rallyrrr]

Thanks, all. Replacement engine is supposed to be here Monday 12/10/2012.

[95intrepid99kid]

What is the displacement? (2.7L, 3.2L, or 3.5L[HO])

[rallyrrr]

2.7l. VIN 2B3HD46RX4H585564. Non EGR.

[cdmccul]

Welcome aboard! You're in the right place. What engine did you get, where from, etc?

[Crash Override]

Welcome aboard, I'd be more likely to assume the water pump on the engine failed causing water to leak into the oil (the water pump is inside the timing chain cover so any leaks can be disastrous) removing a majority of the oil's lubricating properties and creating sludge causing failure of the engine. I'd personally have put a 3.2 or a 3.5 in place of the failed 2.7 (and in fact if I can kill the 2.7 in mine between now and may then I'll be getting the garage that fitted it with a warranty to foot the bill for that very procedure hehe)

If you're putting a used 2.7 back into it, before you do so check the oil pan for sludge and replace the timing chain and water pump along with guides and tensioner. Change oil at 3000 miles and keep to synthetic seems to be the general advice. Any sludge in the oil pan or timing chain cover, reject the engine. They can be a good engine if they have been looked after all their lives, unfortunately when you buy used you can't be certain of that hence the precautions.

[rallyrrr]

The engine failure was caused by damage to the oil filter and the consequences of driving it thereafter. The filter was pushed back at about a 40*+ angle. We've (me and current ex's hubby) had the o/p off the damaged engine and found it clean and normal... just locked up and with about 1/2 cup of oil in it. It was a one owner and apparently had been maintained. The crank belt pulley had no bolt in it??? and the frt. cover top bolt was finger loose. Removed spark plugs and squirted a fair amount of PB blaster down the holes. Uncapped # 6 con rod and piston was free. Guess I'll loosen off the crank caps a bit and see what then. Gotta get the torque converter off the drive plate.

Replacement engine got here yesterday. LKQ from Conway, AR, but bought it through their Springdale, AR facility. They had their own truck. Looked real clean under the filler cap. They had it all cleaned up outside with drive plate on. Bought 1k# HF engine stand and put it together today. Got in new MOPAR water pump (Steve White, eBay). The prices of chain/sprocket/oil pump from most sources scares me ($400-500+) Interested to see chain tensioner extension.