[Firemnted]

I have a factory security system on my 00 ES and I also have a aftermarket system with a remote start on it! I was told the factory was disabled so the two systems would not cause problems! I had Injector 3 short and fried the PCM so I replaced it and all is good with that! But now I have a hard start (long crank time) Problem and just noticed the other day when I have the problem the Factory security light is on on the dash and when it goes out the car will fire but will not run because its flooded I have to put the peddle to the floor and it will start! Does anyone know how to disable the factory system?

[Adpros]

I believe you are going to need help from a DRBIII, (Factory Scantool).

In the VTSS functions you can enable or disable VTSS. I don't know any other way to do this other than a DRB III.

[Firemnted]

Does this sound like it could cause the starting problem?

[Adpros]

I'm really going to catch a lot of flak for this statement but, I have never been a fan of aftermarket security or remote starting equipment. I have always recommended not installing them since the bus systems have become more complicated.

Aside from that, there may have been a few flash updates to address the VTSS system. I can check and see if there was any updates that address that delayed start symptom.

Do you have a black key and a fob or a gray key & fob. There was a bulletin about RFI interference with objects like the Mobil speed-pass but, I think these were cases where the SKIM had locked the vehicle up as well. Usually, if the red VTSS light is on, fuel should be shut down as well. I'm not clear on the flooded engine detail.

NO: 08-14-99
SUBJECT: Vehicle Start And Stall or Vehicle No-Start
DATE: May 21, 1999
NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A SENTRY KEY IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM (SKIS).

DISCUSSION:
A vehicle start and stall or no-start condition may exist from the interaction between a SKIS key and a Mobil Speedpass®. This condition occurs during cranking, when the Mobil Speedpass® cylinder is held immediately adjacent to the key being used to start the vehicle.

NOTE: THIS CONDITION DOES NOT OCCUR BY THE MOBIL SPEEDPASS® CYLINDER SIMPLY BEING ATTACHED TO THE SAME KEY RING.


If a stall or no-start condition exists due to this problem, the Vehicle Theft Security System (VTSS) indicator light will flash and the vehicle will stall after 2 seconds of running. The Sentry key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) will set either the "Transponder Comm Failure", or a "Transponder CRC Failure" fault code. To diagnosis this condition, remove the Mobil Speedpass® from the key ring and attempt to start the vehicle. If the vehicle starts and remains running, SKIS key interaction with the Mobil Speedpass® was the cause. This condition will not cause a vehicle to stall after it has been running normally. If a start and stall or no-start condition continues once the Mobil Speedpass® is removed, continue with the appropriate diagnostic procedures.

In cases where SKIS key interaction with the Mobil Speedpass® is causing the condition, instruct the customer to slightly separate the SKIS key and Mobil Speedpass® when starting the vehicle. There are no long-term adverse effects on any of the components once the Mobil Speedpass® is removed from the SKIS operating area.

POLICY: Information Only

[Firemnted]

Do you know where I can get ahold of a DRBIII? I found one on ebay for$2800.00

[Firemnted]

I forgot to say the after market has been on the car for 7 years with no problems!

[Adpros]

The only place I know to obtain a DRBIII is the dealer or Miller Tools. They are, IMHO outlandishly overpriced and difficult to obtain. I have access to one but, of course, I am a dealer tech. My best advice at this point is to see if anyone else on the Tri-Board community is working at a dealer in your area or at a shop where they have one.

I have been wanting to buy one myself due to the lack of respect community shop tools get. In 20+ years working at Chrysler, not one zone rep has made any effort to assist me at obtaining one at a reasonable cost. Even tech info within the system is frequently hard to get unless you know the right person to call.

As for the system working well for seven years, is it possible to disable the remote start system and see if your problem with the VTSS light is resolved?

[Firemnted]

Is the Light suppose to come on when the ignition is turned on? They cut and spliced relays in to the starting circuits! It doesn't start hard all the time its about 50/50! I have already done timing belt, 6 coil packs, plugs twice, Crank and cam sensors, PCM a second time, purge valve, cleaned the IAC (but cant test it with the scanner I have. I'm just about lost! My Dad just started helping me with it we was a mechanic for 40 years and works at chrysler it was an engineer that told him to replace the purge valve! When I pilled the IAC it looked like it was not making a good seal all the way around!

[Adpros]

Is it at all possible that you have a weak fuel pump? I think spec on this is 58 PSI +/- 2%.

If the fuel pressure is at fault, you can test this with a fuel pressure gauge and some assorted fittings. Much cheaper than a DRBIII.

[Firemnted]

Fuel pressure is 58 PSI. My dad give me the same spec you did but my Chilton book says 44-56 PSI. This wouldn't be the first time my book was wrong! LOL

[Firemnted]

The last time I replaced the plugs I tried to start in and when it didn't start right away I stopped cranking it and pulled the plugs and they were completely soaked

[Adpros]

I see, Hmm... I suppose the injector you replaced was a new or re-man one? I'm just grasping at straws here but, is it at all possible you have an injector dumping? That would sure explain the flooding situation. I gather you are flooding all six cylinders when this happens so, I'm not sure one injector could flood all six at one time.

[Firemnted]

It was a remanned injector and the car runs perfectly when it starts! It does have two exhaust leaks at the flex tubes behind the cats!

[Adpros]

My second thought was a cam sensor but, usually that will set a DTC if it is failing. I know that if the cranking engine does not see the cam signal, it will crank over quite a few more times but, will eventually fire on the crank sensor only. How old is your cam sensor?

[Firemnted]

500 Miles on the cam sensor 300 miles on the crank sensor