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Oil Change Interval?

12K views 47 replies 18 participants last post by  ncfrc 
#1 ·
I know the traditional recommendation for oil change is 3000 miles, but that standard has been with us since my Grandfather's day. Given today's motors run smoother and better, and engine oil technology has also improved, what is your change interval? Yes, I know that it depends on your driving habits (city vs. highway, slowpoke vs. leadfoot, AZ vs. ME) but all things being equal, would you say it's alright to push the 3k to 4k nowadays?
 
#4 ·
if you look at the maintenance manuals, you will even see that most cars since the late 90s/early 2000s have suggested longer service intervals. I have seen several manuals where they suggest around 5000 to 7500 miles between oil changes, and with manufacturers using synthetic lubricants in new vehicles it is not too uncommon to see manufacturers list oil change intervals of 10,000 miles.

Personally, I run 5000 miles between oil changes. I know many people who stick with 3000 mile oil changes simply because thats what they were taught. I also know some people who run about 8000 miles between oil changes. The biggest factor is whether you do more in town driving or highway driving, and how quickly you accumulate mileage.
 
#5 ·
6-8000 on mobile 1 synthetic, but I don't judge it by mileage, I look at and smell the oil on the dip stick. I know what fresh synthetic oil should look and smell like, and I likewise know when it is time to be changed, this typically works out to somewhere between 5-10k miles depending on driving habits, season, etc. in my cars.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Chrysler started out with I think a 7500 mile oil change interval on the 2.7, but they shortened that in later years - and for good reason.

Not all things over the last few years have been improvements in oil. They now leave out an extreme-pressure additive that used to be in the oil. I guess it's why most if not all cars now have roller cam followers - regular sliding cams wouldn't hold up with oil without that additive. You might find this interesting (originally posted here: http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=24576&start=15 - scroll down to post by Krautmaster):

Camshaft wear on older flat tappet cams (like the one in my 1968 Chrysler 383) is a serious problem due to the lack of high pressure additives in the oil. Back in the old days (pre 1989) engine oil had lots of this additive (ZDDP), but the EPA found that it clogged up the catalytic converters over time. Manufacturers switched over to "roller'' cam engine designs that don't require as much of the high pressure additive when the EPA mandated that the level of ZDDP be dropped. The amount of it in engine oil has gradually been decreased to the point that you can't use modern oil in an older flat tappet cam engine without destroying the camshaft and lifters -sometimes in as little as 100 miles!(we have to use diesel oil and a ZDDP additive in the old engines to keep them alive) What we are now finding out is that 6-10 year old cars with roller cams that have been run on this new low ZDDP level oil their whole lives are wearing out the camshafts too. Even the brand new car in your driveway will have the same problem in 75,000-100,000 miles, maybe less as the amount of ZDDP in the oil is being decreased yet again. The only solution (after you get new cams) is to add some ZDDP back into your oil-you can buy it for about $10 a bottle, and it needs to be added every oil change.

This is one reason I chose Shell Rotella T6 when I recently decided to go to a different oil in my cars. Screw the EPA.
 
#8 ·
Look at the new Redline ZDDP additive , one 16oz. bottle treats up to 12 qts.
I was in the oil business for many years and it's not their fault as their being told
by the EPA as to what can or can not be put in Automotive motor oil.
I don't want to sway this thread towards an additive debate but some out there
only boost the Zinc side, where you need both the Zinc and Phosphorus.

A final comment on the original topic ,,, buy the cheapest gas you can find and buy
the most expensive motor oil that you can afford. Just remember if you ask 10 different
Mechanic's / Technition's about oils and change intervals , you'll get 10 different answers.
 
#11 ·
I also run Rotella and in my 70 Plymouth I run ZDDP additive as well. The muscle car forums have been bitching about oil quality for years because most of those guys run flat tappet cams. I didn't realize that the lask of ZDDP was hard on roller cams too. I have read that synthetic oil eliminates the need for the ZDDP as well.

Additive I run
 

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#12 ·
The muscle car forums have been bitching about oil quality for years because most of those guys run flat tappet cams. I didn't realize that the lask of ZDDP was hard on roller cams too. I have read that synthetic oil eliminates the need for the ZDDP as well.
Have you heard any of your colleagues on those muscle car forums talk about Militech-1 at all? I've used it successfully in my '99ES which now has 252,000 miles on it. While I don't pretend to suggest that mileage is attributable to the Militech alone, it surely does make one pause and think. I use the conditioner on my firearms, and it certainly doesn't seem to hurt my motor, either.
 
#14 ·
I bought my 02 Intrepid in January 2003 with just under 20k miles, and started a 3000 mile oil change regiment. IMO, it is a small price to pay for peace of mind and I don't care what the manual says. I also use either a Hastings (Baldwin) or a CarQuest (WIX) filter every time and fill the filter completely before installing on the car. I use only Pennzoil high mileage (copper bottle) 10w-30 oil and have for the past 120k miles or so and have not had any problems. I put about 3000 miles on about every 6 weeks commuting back and forth to work and it also gives me an opportunity to look other things over while under the car and under the hood. Call it overkill if you want, but it works for me and I have turned over 207k miles with no oil related engine problems.

Todd
 
#19 ·
The Only reason I would go over 3000 miles is with a high rating on the oil filter. Something with a low micron filter capability. While oil has improved since grampas' day, most basic filters have not. And I believe dirt is our worst enemy, not oil breakdown. I was using a Mobil one filter and sometimes stretched the milage. Going back to the Mopar filter for the anti drain back feature caused me to return back to 3000 miles to get the dirt sucked into the intake, out of the engine.
 
#21 ·
Nice Avatar ! What else can you say about that one :thankyou:

Ok , changing the filter half way thru an oil change interval is a very common practice
in fleet maintainance. UPS has done it that way for many years.
Not to get this thread into a filter debate but Mobil One oil filters are made by Champ Labs
are not the top of the line.They charge like their the very best ! I'll still second the 1st post where a Hastings or Wix was being used. Even they can only make the microns of the media to a certain size or the filter would not be a full flow design. Trivia , all full flow filters will go into bypass mode on a cold start up " 30 degree's " as the oil is too heavy to flow thru the media. Better to do that than not get the oil moving. The ONLY way to filter oil finer is thru a a bypass filter , but that's a whole other story and requires two filters like what's used on commercial trucks.

As far as dirt in the intake is concerned , run a quality filter and use silicone grease on the sealing surfaces. More dust will get around the edges than what a good filter won't catch.
 
#20 ·
Cory, Grayslater, at the 300M board is running 12k intervals on full synthetic on his Special.

He changes the filter out at 6k, then runs to 12k before a full oil change.

At least once a year he's sent the oil off for analysis, each time it's come back good.

Historically, I've done mine at 3k. But when I was down there for my TB/WP work, we moved to a mixed blend. Going to run that for 3k, then swap out for full synthetic.

I will be checking the oil thereafter, but I do not expect to go any shorter than 6k going forward.
 
#22 ·
Far as filters, it may take me a while but one of our members on one of the forums bought every last oil filter, cut them apart and did alot of measuring and comparing on a really professional level. Mobil, K&M, WIX were the top three if I recall. K&N and Mobil were basically the same filter as well inside.
 
#23 ·
Mobil and K+N are both made for them by Champ Labs , their ok , but over priced compared to a Hastings or Wix at $6 or less. But again , this just MY opinion.

Yes , I've seen all the filters cut on a professional level as I've managed many an automotive parts house for over 30 years. Just stay away from FRAM ! The most marketed , worst
quality filter you could ever buy.
 
#26 ·
The Hastings LF-115 will hold aprox. 20 oz. of oil and only mounts at a 20 degree
angle . No oil spill problems at all. With that mount an anti drain back valve
doesn't do a thing. You only need one when the filter is mounted horizontal.
 
#32 · (Edited)
...With that mount an anti drain back valve
doesn't do a thing. You only need one when the filter is mounted horizontal.
I don't believe that to be correct. The ADBV keeps the oil galleries from emptying regardless of filter orientation. Granted there's a lot more volume of oil that has to be pumped at startup if most of the oil filter needs to be refilled instead of just the galleries, but even with vertical filter, the ADBV serves an important purpose.
 
#27 ·
unless u are pretty hard on your car or drive in alot of dusty areas, you should be able to get at least 5000 miles from most oils....now if u have a leak, or mechanical problem, u may want to keep to the 3000 area....I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic since I got my new 3.5 HO....driven it a little over 10000 miles...just changed the oil last week...its been a year...lol...so I thought I should probably do it...oil didn't smell burned, still looked pretty good....I use a FRAM orange filter with the Fram grip on the end to help remove and install it.....just my $.02............
 
#28 ·
If that works for you then do it.

Just a couple facts since I've spent my whole career in the Auto Parts business.

--The only Mobil 1 automotive synthetic oil that is acknowledged out side this country as
a true synthetic is the 0w40 European formula.

-- If you saw the inside of a fram filter you'd understand what I'm saying ,, it's a
piece of crap , cardboard ends , tin spring , ect. At least buy the Mopar one at Wamart.
Better yet , buy a wix , napa or a hastings. But don't get talked into a synthetic oil filter,
thats total marketing at it's worst.

-- A very good rule of thumb , conventional oil -3000-3500 miles ,
good synthetic oil - 6000-7000 miles.
 
#29 ·
good to know NCFRC....I was really using the FRAM filter because I have the police bumper cover with the brake ducts on it which go right up next to the oil filter and its a ***** to get a filter wrench snaked up in there...I just use my hands and without the fram grip stuff on the filter its hard to remove them and hard to get them tight enough to not leak a little...maybe I'll look for a better wrench thats adjustable or something...
 
#31 ·
I'd suggest to get a cap wrench , which is basically a large metal or plastic
socket that fits over the end of the filter.
I'm not too familar with the Police duct work but the filter I'm running is about an
inch longer. The Napa # is a 1515. The Wix number is a 51515. Wix makes the Napa one.
And the Hastings # is a LF-115. If you want to stay with the stock length it's a 51085 wix
or 1085 Napa.

Hope this helps
 
#33 ·
I'd have to agree with that. The anti drain back valve would help in keeping
oil in the galleries.

LF115 Lube Filter

Hastings Premium Filters uses the industry’s best practices and processes to manufacture high-efficiency filters which are strong enough to withstand the toughest operating conditions. While a filter’s efficiency must typically be sacrificed to increase capacity, the LF115 excels in both contaminant removal efficiency and contaminant holding capacity.

The Hastings Design

The LF115 cellulose/glass blend media protects engines by trapping and holding contaminant particles and preventing them from entering vital engine parts.

The louvered centertube not only provides internal element support and strength, but also allows maximum flow. A steel coil spring maintains a constant load pressure, protecting engines, even during pressure surges.

A by-pass valve protects the engine in cold starts and highly restrictive conditions by making sure lubricants are distributed to vital engine parts. An anti-drainback valve keeps oil in the filter, preventing engine-destroying dry starts.

By combining these vital filter components, Hastings Premium Filters is able to provide superior lube filtration products for all filtration needs.
 
#37 ·
If it Mobil 1 or any other synthetic oil , the 15K would only be under these conditions.

- Strictly highway driving , 200 miles a day.
- Air filter change at 10K with zero dirt road miles
- An oil filter change at 7500 miles
- An oil anaylisis done at every 15k
- ect, ect.

Far from the average driver. Change it at 6k and you'll be good.
I'm not a huge Mobil 1 fan but I'd suggest to run the 0w40 if I was to use their product.
 
#42 · (Edited)
A little off the subject but related too.
I was changing the oil in an Intrepid that my son bought
and the oil drain plug is a large plastic style like a radiator drain cock.
I've never seen one like this and I'm not very comfortable with the design.
It must be some sort of Lag bolt design as after you loosened it , it
would not come out of the hole. It has a rubber gasket that seals against the pan.
Maybe someone stripped the oil plug hole and put this in there.
I'd like to remove it but hate to have the inner part still in the oil pan.

Has anybody ever seen one like this ??

Dam car also had a POC mighty oil filter on it , the smaller LF-157 / 1348 style not
even reccomended for the car. Dam Quick lubes.
 
#43 · (Edited)
A little off the subject but related too.
I was changing the oil in an Intrepid that my son bought
and the oil drain plug is a large plastic style like a radiator drain cock.
I've never seen one like this and I'm not very comfortable with the design.
It must be some sort of Lag bolt design as after you loosened it , it
would not come out of the hole. It has a rubber gasket that seals against the pan.
Maybe someone stripped the oil plug hole and put this in there.
I'd like to remove it but hate to have the inner part still in the oil pan.

Has anybody ever seen one like this ??...
I think you're talking about the one that is made like a toggle bolt on the inside. Dan (Daytrepper) swears by them - see post no. 5: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=244620
 
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