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Changed ALL cluster bulbs to LEDs and now car won't start - wtf???

2K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  MrBigE 
#1 · (Edited)
:poopoo: So today I FINALLY switched ALL my cluster lights to LEDs. I used 25 SMD-LEDs for the main bulbs and 20 SMD-LEDs for the turn signals, one LED for the Cruise light and 2 for the High Beam light. I know LEDs can "confuse" the electrical system & make it act funny because I've experienced this in my Civic and in my bro's Regal. But ALL the car lights (headlights, tails, interior) were on while I was installing the cluster lights, which is strange!! So I finished & tested the cluster lights. They all lit up. I was happy UNTIL... I went to start my car and it won't start! I hear a fast clicking/rattling sound when I turn the key in the ignition that I believe to be the starter. Also when I turn the key, the interior lights flicker at the speed of the clicking/rattling sound. WHAT COULD IT BE? I am trying to rule out the possibility of a dead battery since all the bulbs in my car are LEDs which do not drain the battery and I was able to turn the headlights on so the battery is NOT dead. Maybe I didn't fully connect the cluster? Did I blow a fuse that prevents my car from turning on? I doubt it's the starter. What a coincidence that the day I decide to change the cluster lights my starter goes out. My dad said it could be a relay somewhere but he wasn't specific. Is there anything you guys can think of?
 
#3 ·
That's the advice my dad gave me.. I did have the doors open so the map and rear passenger lights were on for about an hour and the head and tail lights too. I live in a desert so its cold right now but I'll definitely try jump starting it tomorrow morning. :)
 
#12 ·
I gave it a jump start, no luck. I kept trying to turn it on and the battery just DIED. So it looks like the battery MIGHT be the culprit. I have a Duralast Gold battery that was put in in September of last year and took it out opened the vents and each of the 6 holes' fluid level was low so I added distilled water. The battery is currently being charged. In the meantime I cleaned the battery, terminals, battery area and when it charges I'll put it back in and hopefully that solves my problem! I'll check back in a few hours.:D
 
#15 · (Edited)
Dead giveaway? Ok it's sounding more and more like my battery is at fault. I know Duralast is not the best battery out there but the Gold is supposed to be a little better. It's the AutoZone line of bateries. Anyways, it was in there when I bought the car in June. Next battery will probably be an AC Delco. Battery still charging, will put it back in a bit.
 
#16 ·
The Duralast batteries are fine, IMO... Made by Johnson controls last I knew, but that may well have changed. Delco makes a good battery, but seriously, if you are going to spring for a Delco, go talk to Mother Mopar and see what a battery will run you at the dealership.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Consider this one - good specs, $81 with discount code A124:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...040409-P_2916_R|GRPBATTAM2_____BBV#fragment-2
Battery Type: Lead Acid
BCI Group Size: 34/78
Cold Cranking Amps: 800 amps
Cranking Amps: 1000 amps Deep Cycle/Starting: Starting
Height: 8 1/8 in
Length: 11 in
Maintenance Free: Yes
Reserve Capacity: 110 min
Terminal Type: Dual Terminal
Voltage: 12 v
Weight: 39 lbs
Width: 7 1/4 in

I swore off Advance batteries some years ago after having several premature failures. But this statement in the description caught my attantion last year whan I needed a new battery: "Engineered with PowerFrame positive grid technology which virtually eliminates premature failure and resists corrosion up to 66% more effectively than other grid designs." Could be marketing b.s., but I bit on it. 1-1/2 years down the road - so far so good. My experience in the past was that it would have failed by now.
 
#20 ·
Consider this one - good specs, $81 with discount code A124:

I swore off Advance batteries some years ago after having several premature failures. But this statement in the description caught my attantion last year whan I needed a new battery: "Engineered with PowerFrame positive grid technology which virtually eliminates premature failure and resists corrosion up to 66% more effectively than other grid designs." Could be marketing b.s., but I bit on it. 1-1/2 years down the road - so far so good. My experience in the past was that it would have failed by now.
I've had 2 premature failures in my Civic and those were Duralast. Delco batteries should be better and I'm sure they are but I'ma look at the link and also consider a Mopar.
 
#21 ·
I replaced my battery in late July of this year after getting the fast-clicky one afternoon.

Did some research, and settled on a Duracell brand from my local Sam's Club - 850CCAs for like, $75. Battery is made by Deka (one of of the few major manufacturers like Johnson Controls and the like).

Hasn't been SUPER cold here yet, but those days where it's sat out below freezing, it's performed admirably. I hope it lasts many years. :)

Choosing a battery is like choosing a brand of oil - everyone has what they like and what they trust.

If my local 5-star didn't want $132+core for a OEM battery, I would have pulled the trigger on one of those.

Good luck with the charging - perhaps run it up to the parts store and let them throw it on the tester?
 
#23 · (Edited)
Ok guys, I had a dead battery. All's fine now. :D Charged the battery, put it back in and now everything's fine. THANKS A LOT to everyone that contributed to helping me solve this prob. :) I put the black Concorde gauges and blue LED bulbs on my cluster. Will probably post pics tomorrow. :D THANKS AGAIN!!!!!
 
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