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Q's about Removing/Replacing Transmission

33K views 173 replies 16 participants last post by  BobFrankly 
#1 ·
OK, I have determined I am going to have to replace my transmission myself since I am short of funds, and I have reasonable mechanical skills, tools, and a buddy willing to help.

I have read the excellent how-to articles on the 2nd to 1st gen swap, and changing the solenoid pack, etc. as well as the factory repair manual to psych myself up. But I have yet to find a specific how-to actually remove & replace the transmission in the real world sense.

My question(s) now have to do with clearances and grocery list of items I will need.

1a) I have 4 jackstands, 4 ramps and a 3-ton floor jack with max 20"/min 6" lift. How high does the car need to be jacked up to fit the trans underneath it?
[I also plan on making a custom plywood tray to adapt my floor jack to raise/lower the trans. ]
1b) What are the ideal jackstand locations on the undercarriage for this job?

2a) How much clearance do I need side-to-side to pull the front axles out (space in my garage might be tight)??
2b) how do I support the axles if they are not pulled all the way out?

3) I have read about people cutting the exhaust to do this job. Is this advisable/ avoidable???

4) I recall reading about folks struggling with some part/ having to really pry/ cuss to get the trans out. What is this sticking point and what other pitfalls are there? Any tips/ words of wisdom?

I'm sure I'll have other questions, So :thanks: in advance for your help!
 
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#2 ·
welcome to the world of fun.....I'd say you've got a pretty good laundry list to start with.

1a) I have 4 jackstands, 4 ramps and a 3-ton floor jack with max 20"/min 6" lift. How high does the car need to be jacked up to fit the trans underneath it?
[I also plan on making a custom plywood tray to adapt my floor jack to raise/lower the trans. ]
1b) What are the ideal jackstand locations on the undercarriage for this job?
from the bottom of the trans to the floor you will need somewhere around 22" to 25" in clearance. jackstand position where I placed mine were after the driveaxes / front tires about 6" to 8"s past.

2a) How much clearance do I need side-to-side to pull the front axles out (space in my garage might be tight)??
2b) how do I support the axles if they are not pulled all the way out?
you don't need very much room....if you have enough room to remove the front tires and a good chuck of the front supension then you got room........as far as supporting the halfshafts you could use some rope...dunno what ever works.

3) I have read about people cutting the exhaust to do this job. Is this advisable/ avoidable???
I would NOT RECOMMEND you to cut the exhaust unless your replacing it.....you should be able to unbolt your exhaust right at the y pipe on forward.

4) I recall reading about folks struggling with some part/ having to really pry/ cuss to get the trans out. What is this sticking point and what other pitfalls are there? Any tips/ words of wisdom?
take your time don't rush it.......it's pretty much straight forward removing it as it is to install it. Make sure y have some pry bar for the halfshafts.....I had a 3 foot breaker bar halfshalfs popped off like nothing. Good luck!
 
#3 ·
OK, I have determined I am going to have to replace my transmission myself since I am short of funds, and I have reasonable mechanical skills, tools, and a buddy willing to help.

I have read the excellent how-to articles on the 2nd to 1st gen swap, and changing the solenoid pack, etc. as well as the factory repair manual to psych myself up. But I have yet to find a specific how-to actually remove & replace the transmission in the real world sense.

My question(s) now have to do with clearances and grocery list of items I will need.

1a) I have 4 jackstands, 4 ramps and a 3-ton floor jack with max 20"/min 6" lift. How high does the car need to be jacked up to fit the trans underneath it?
[I also plan on making a custom plywood tray to adapt my floor jack to raise/lower the trans. ]

Tall as possible. You want as much room to work with as possible.


1b) What are the ideal jackstand locations on the undercarriage for this job?

On the cradle, but not ina way to interfere with removing the transmission. You can place them on the pinch welds (lip that runs the body length, I suggest having four of them and the whole car in the air.

2a) How much clearance do I need side-to-side to pull the front axles out (space in my garage might be tight)??
I just undid the two bolts attaching the knuckle to the strut, pull knuckle out and use a punch to drive the axle out of the hub. Do NOT hammer on the axle as the threads will get damaged.
2b) how do I support the axles if they are not pulled all the way out?
You need to pull them out all the way. No if ands or butts.

3) I have read about people cutting the exhaust to do this job. Is this advisable/ avoidable???

If its rusty, yes. If its okay clean. Spray the bolts that hold it to the manifolds, with PB blaster let them soak.I pulled my entire exhaust system out in one piece. you do have to twist and bend it a smidge but it works and easier I think in the long run. (Of course, I had my car on a life so you may have to cut it regardless)

4) I recall reading about folks struggling with some part/ having to really pry/ cuss to get the trans out. What is this sticking point and what other pitfalls are there? Any tips/ words of wisdom?

I believe, the CV axles coming out of the transmission. Use two long pry bars to pop them out using the inner cup. I would imagine the exhuast also playing a PITA. I would also note the rear cross member can be a butt, but it will come out if you figure it out.

I'm sure I'll have other questions, So :thanks: in advance for your help!

Please note you do have to splice over the harness, and drill out a flex plate bolt. For the harness cut one wire at a time and connect by pin placement not color. The flex plate is not hard with the right tools and time. There is one bell housing bolt you can either re drill for or leave out. I left mine out with no issues. If you have the 3.3 your find u have plenty of room up top to get to two bolts on the passenger side for the bell housing. Also if you get a 2.7 Sec Gen trans, it has a lower transfer gearing gears. Which will decrease ur mpg and make sure speedo off. You can keep them, for better acceleration, or swap over ur other gears.

BTW. I just did all of this last Thursday. And it took roughly 7-8 hours. (that includes all the supporting mods and everything and running around for parts. Was also my first LH trans to do. I also had a lift to use. Which makes things way way way easier.
 
#31 ·
BTW. I just did all of this last Thursday. And it took roughly 7-8 hours. (that includes all the supporting mods and everything and running around for parts. Was also my first LH trans to do. I also had a lift to use. Which makes things way way way easier.
I am trying to line up a shop that rents lifts. What step(s) took the longest? What could you recommend to streamline things? Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Wow, this is awesome information, y'all!!!! :biggthump

So what are the parts I'll need beside ATF+4? I intend to retain the donor trans' wiring harness.

Should I drain the fluid from the old trans, or is that an unneeded extra step? Also, I assume it is a good idea to change the fluid and filter in the donor trans?

It doesn't sound as if my 20"H floor jack will be adequate to lift the car?? Will the stock jack in the trunk lift the car any higher?
 
#5 ·
I Doubt it. Those jacks are used to life the car enough to get a tire on and off in emergency conditions only really.


But, You will need, some weatherproof wire connectors or solder. At least 10 qts of ATF 4.

Two tubes of black RTV. And a filter Kit for the new transmission.


Fair warning and advice, if you have the trans out, now is the time to do the rear main seal and front pump seal of the transmission.

Also Also Wik, The TQ converter will be a ***** to you when you go to put it back in the transmission. It MUST click and slide forward THREE times. You have to turn and wiggle it alot to get it to do this.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Should I drain the fluid from the old trans, or is that an unneeded extra step? I would leave the fluid in.
Also, I assume it is a good idea to change the fluid and filter in the donor trans? Do the filter while it is out of the car same with RTVing the pan back on. wait until you install it before adding the new fluid

It doesn't sound as if my 20"H floor jack will be adequate to lift the car?? Will the stock jack in the trunk lift the car any higher? Get a 4x4 or 6x6 block to put between your jack and the car. that will give you extra lift height. You could even circular saw a slot in the block for the pinch weld to fit in. Will your jackstands go high enough???

*edit - I have a decent air compressor and some air tools I could lend you if that will make the job easier.
 
#8 ·
Your floor jack will be more than enough, you will just have to lift back near the back of the cradle. I would strongly suggest that if you don't want to cut the exhaust, you will need to get the entire car up as high as you can... I don't have a measurement, but I would say that the larger 6 ton jack stands are the minimum height. And I can't stress enough, you will need as much light and room under the car as you can get.

For me, the hardest part was getting the water pipes off the top of the bell housing. The top two bolts that go through the bell housing have studs on the ends that the water pipe bolts to, AND a wire harness mount. That wire harness mount got me TWICE.

Excavate as much of the material away from the transmision as you can - that is what made life easier for me.

Oh, and it really helps to have the whole car up and level for several reasons - the exaust will come out easier (the exaust has to drop from the rear and angle way down to roll out from the engine bay), and the transmission is much easier to get up into place if everything is level.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Options!

I went to the JY today to scope out the possibilities. Frankly, I was amazed by the number of LH cars there!

Here are the top 6 candidates chosen because the engine is already gone (making the job MUCH easier, IMO) w/ one exception:

'04 Corde Engine removed (unknown displacement) unknown mi, has TQ conv, good harness
'00 Trep, Engine removed (unknown displacement) 130,579 mi, No TQ conv. good harness
'00 LHS, Engine removed (unknown displacement) unknown mi, has TQ connv. good harness
'98 Trep, Engine removed (unknown displacement) unknown mi, No TQ conv., good harness
'97 Corde, Engine in place, 3.5L, 81,000 mi, one axle removed, crushed roof., good harness
'95 Trep Engine removed (unknown displacement) unknown mi, has TQ conv., bad harness

I am leaning towards the LHS because it is complete w/ tq converter, the car looks clean and I am putting faith that LHS owners are tamer drivers. Looks like car was totaled due to rear quarter and trunk damage. Toss up with the '04 Corde.

But I also like the '97 Corde with crushed roof because miles are known (81K), one of the axles is already taken care of, and I wouldn't need to to any conversion. However engine is in place and so more work.

Please, share your thoughts on the candidates pros/cons. What about torque converters? Should I just go with the JY units, or should I buy a new or rebuilt one? Also, I wrote down the VINs for some of the cars, how can I tell from the VIN what the original engine was??? Do these stripped cars have memories? i.e. if there is a key in the car and I hook up a battery, will the odometer mileage be stored??
 
#13 ·
The 2nd gen cars have the mileage in the BCM (I think), so if you can power them, you can get the mileage.

I'd take the '04 - I'd expect the 'Cord to have the same driving history as the LHS. The newer the transmission, the presumably better revised it will be - BUT, that '97 'Cord is VERY tempting. Those are great miles, and having the engine in it isn't that big a deal - it means you get practice in removing a transmission before you go having to do it to yours. Some yards may even let you get the engine/transmission ready to pull, and then they'll come over with an end loader and yank it out for you.

To save money, I would get a JY unit _with_ TC. The TC installed means the system is little more 'sealed up' than one missing the TC, and it means that the fluid is a match. If you get a second gen tranny with out the TC, spring for a new one - don't mix your old TC with the new tranny. Your TC is full of ATF+3, and it is dirty ATF+3 because it has the exploded tranny parts suspended in it possibly.

As a simple swap and to be quick and dirty, just get the '97. You can probably bargan the price down a ways, or get them to pull it for you and have more leverage for that... Otherwise, go with the '04.
 
#14 ·
Good points. The price is set for all of the trans in this corporate run yard : $99 each, so no bargaining room that I know of. The reason for the low price is that you have to pull everything yourself. But I did see some engine hoists out there, so I'll ask. I'm also gonna ask if they have records of mileage, since each car has a 'tracking number'. I assume I would need a key to access the BCM's?

Another thing I figured out is I can get CarFaxes on these cars to figure out the mileage/history. I have already found out that the '00 Corde is actually an 01 and it came with a 3.5L and 13 records, the '98 Trep had a 3.2L & 24 records. I haven't sprung for the 5-VIN for $45 deal yet... If someone has a CF membership, I could paypal you some money to run the vins.

Now I'm trying to figure out a safe way to drop the trannies since you are not allowed to bring a jack in. Most cars have about 20" clearance below. The case of the A606 is 16"h by my measuring. I figured I would put a furn. dolly underneath, but I would essentially have to 'drop' it. Any ideas on how to get a tranny safely out given the circumstances? The JY told me to put a tire under it, drop it on the tire, then drag it out. Sheesh. Maybe suspend it from the shock towers with straps?
 
#15 ·
Matt, the yard will have mileage info on all the cars(should) take the lot or inventory numbers they wrote on fender to the desk. They can probably tell you the engine info too. All first gens will have the gears you want. Most of the intrepids will be 2.7s You can look at the trep bumpers too - no fogs=2.7 They have these huge rolling boat type hoists used to pull engines and transmissions. They will not help you pull anything out. You will also probably find that they drilled a hole in the trans pan to drain the fluids. Hopefully, they did not. I dunno if you want to pull the pan while in the yard to see if they hit the valve body when they drilled the hole.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tip on the pan. If the pan is bad, but nothing drilled inside, will the pans interchange from 1G to 2G? Anything look wrong visually with these 2 candidates --i.e. is corrosion an issue? May be hard to tell from the pics, but there is noticeable surface rust on the axle cups and elsewhere for the 04 Corde, the '01 LHS is 'cleaner'


04 Corde


'01 LHS
 
#18 · (Edited)
How to pull a trans from a pick-n-pull.

Well this morning was an adventure to say the least!

Here's some tips particular to LKQ Self Serve yards which are all over the country, but may apply to others.

*Admin, feel free to make this a How-to if you feel it is worthy...

LKQ does not allow any jacks or torches. Not having a jack was a major PITA, but surmountable with some Yankee ingenuity. They do have a 30-day return policy so keep your receipt!

Tools to bring:
Cardboard/Foam Matting
2 @ 2x12"x3' boards
Socket set English & Metric including 1" socket
Sawzall
Prybar, the longer the better. Bring 2 prybars.
Breaker bar
Come-alongs / strapping / chain
Gloves & safety glasses, hat
2 or more Plywood planks, 2'x8'x1/2"
Furniture Dolly
Low utility trailer w/ramp.
Bugspray/sunscreen
COLD WATER!

First off always use the utmost caution when taking on a job like this. Think ahead, employ redundant safety measures, stay clear of trans at crucial moments-- it is a heavy SOB. Secondly bring a buddy. Thirdly on days like this bring lots and lots of ice water. :heatwave: I actually got woozy a couple times, and I'm a healthy guy. It was ridiculous. I can't stress enough how important it is to take breaks and keep hydrated. Heat stroke is no joke! :breakfast:

VIN tips. LKQ does not keep computerized inventory (at least mine claimed it didn't). What you can do is go to Carfax.com and type in the VIN. Here's a secret--If you substitute one wrong digit, say an 'i' for a '1', it will detect an error & come back with the car you are looking for with the full drivetrain listing. Otherwise, giving it the straight VIN only tells you only the Year, Make & Model. This is good to know if the engine is long gone. Actually purchasing the info from Carfax or Autocheck.com will give you mileage & service history info.

BTW, on a day like today, pick one with an engine long-gone. This job was beeyotch doing without an engine due to the heat and lack-of-jack. Cannot fathom doing one with an engine in place...

The VIN check on my smartphone told me the "'04 Corde" was in fact a '99 LXI. I opted for the '01 LHS because overall, I would say it was the cleanest LH on the lot, had both front wheels & engine et al removed, had its torque converter, good wiring harness, dipstick, and had a 20" ground clearance-- very important. The trans is itself is about 16" top to bottom.

Here is how we got the beast home:
1) Lay cardboard and foam matting under the car. My yard was full of very coarse gravel-- very uncomfortable to work on.
2) Lay the 2x's under the trans. Maintain a space between boards.
3) Disconnect the wiring harness from the firewall. Detach the shift linkage.
4) Sawzall /unbolt what is left of the exhaust, get it out of the way.
5) Sawzall the trans cooler in /out lines. Be prepared for a little spillage. Unbolt, pull the dipstick.
6) Run a come-along strap around the trans, looped over one or both of the struts tied into the firewall. If you can get one of the portable engine hoists in the yard, hook the trans up. None were available to us today.
7) Remove the 2 knuckle bolts from the wheel struts on each side (1" socket)
8) Stand in the engine bay. Have your buddy pry the trans up off of the sway bar with one pry bar, while you pry the CV joint offs. Bring a 3' L bar. My 18" L bar and 12" nail prying bars were just barely adequate. I used my breaker bar to get the drivers side off.
9) Unbolt the 4 bolts on the back of the vertically oriented mounting plate. I found messing with the the transaxle support bolts and horizontally oriented bolts was a waste of time and effort.
10) The trans is now FREE! Carefully un winch the come-along strap to lower the trans down on the 2xs. We weren't so graceful but at least it didn't drop like a rock.
11) Scoot the trans out from under on the 2 x's. Having 2 boards is key because you can move the planks as you scooch along. With 20" overall ground clearance, you will have just enough room to exit under the frame.
12) Here is my back saver secret. We could have just lifted the trans onto a wheelbarrow at this point. However, since my buddy already ruins his back as a tile layer during the week, and I'm not Arnold S., we opted not to heave this 200lb boulder onto a one-wheeled conveyance. Instead, I laid down one of my plywood planks. I then placed my low furniture dolly on it and levered the trans onto the dolly. Be careful here, as the dolly will want to roll away. We then proceeded to the check out by pulling/pushing the dolly along, alternating the 2 planks of our mobile 'road' over the gravel. Gotta lotta laughs and a lotta thumbs up, but it worked!
13) Use the planks to Roll the trans/dolly right up onto the trailer ramp. Strap it down with the come-alongs and get the hell out of the heat!
14) Take your buddy out to lunch and pick him up a case of beer!

Overall the job took 3 hrs from arriving at the yard to having the trans on the ground. It would have gone faster to not have messed with the transaxle support bolts, having adequate prybars, and at 70ºF and no humidity!
 
#20 ·
Yeah, had to chill out, then do daddy duties. I'm gonna regroup, get the garage ready, and probably attempt the operation next weekend. Tomorrow is a whole 'nother operation, cutting up the tree that fell in the yard.
 
#22 ·
Laundry list and Tech. questions

Got the fallen oak tree, stump chopped up and mostly carted away on Sunday. Talk about gruelling work. These heat indexes are unreal!

Anyway, I am putting my list together for stuff I need:

10 qts ATF+4
Filter Kit
4 tubes black silicone (particular type/brand?)
Solder and shrink wrap
Drain/catch pan
Torque converter bolts
Rear main seal
Pump seal

What am I missing? Are all of the above available at chain auto parts store? Any have to come from Ma Mopar?

I have read and reread Kyle's excellent recap article on the 2g-1G swap, but I still have some technical (and possibly dumb) questions:

I am unclear on the flex plate-- How are the transmission and engine physically connected? What kind of room is there to mate the two sides up? I first pull the flex plate off of the back of the engine to redrill the one hole for alignment? then do I put in the tq conv. bolts one at a time by rotating the crank??? Obviously, I'm confused...:wacko:
 
#23 ·
Got the fallen oak tree, stump chopped up and mostly carted away on Sunday. Talk about gruelling work. These heat indexes are unreal!

Anyway, I am putting my list together for stuff I need:

10 qts ATF+4
Filter Kit
4 tubes black silicone (particular type/brand?)
Solder and shrink wrap
Drain/catch pan
Torque converter bolts
Rear main seal
Pump seal

What am I missing? Are all of the above available at chain auto parts store? Any have to come from Ma Mopar?

I have read and reread Kyle's excellent recap article on the 2g-1G swap, but I still have some technical (and possibly dumb) questions:

I am unclear on the flex plate-- How are the transmission and engine physically connected? What kind of room is there to mate the two sides up? I first pull the flex plate off of the back of the engine to redrill the one hole for alignment? then do I put in the tq conv. bolts one at a time by rotating the crank??? Obviously, I'm confused...:wacko:
There is a "inspection" plate you remove. it is held on with two 10 mm nuts and two 15 mm bolts that help hold on two brackets. (3.3 anyways) you rotate the engine until a bolt come clear, and you hold the engine still (crank) and loosen and or tighten the bolt. Rotate until the next one.

I suggest removing the flex plate to drill the hole out a bit. Which you hvae to do to replace the rear main anyhow.

Once again, alot of this stuff is easy, you just figure it out as you go.,
 
#26 ·
I guess those 4 bolts the only thing that connects the engine to the transmission? That's a lot of force on 4 bolts, no wonder they should be replaced! And the single crank bolt connects the flexplate to the crankshaft?
 
#27 ·
No No No.

There is one bolt on the Crank pulley up front that holds the crank pulley on. You can use this to help with tightening and loosening the four bolts on the flex plate-converter.

I believe there is 6 bolts that hold the trans to the engine, one which you may leave out.

The two brackets underneath (it will be apparent once you look) are optional deal they threw on there for extra strength..


I am taking it you ve never had a good look underneath before. So here are a few pictures.

I have a 3.3 BTW.









And the only picture I took when doing my Swap. ( I wanted to take plenty of picture but being I was at my job doing this, I had to get it in and out as quickly as possible,)

 
#29 ·
I don't recall if you have the 3.5 or not, but DO NOT turn the 3.5 backwards! From the front of the engine, it turns CLOCK WISE, so facing the fly wheel it turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Do not get this confused! if you do, you MUST take apart the front of the engine and verify timing. The timing belt is designed to hold tension only one way - if you roll it backwards, it has been known to skip timing!
 
#32 ·
Streamline things? Make sure you have all your parts there and ready so You can just go at it. I also highly suggest having a transmission jack. That helps. And a second person.

For me, What seemed like it took the longest was the front transmission seal. I was trying to be careful with it taking it out.

The hardest bits I recall, is the one top bolt on the driver side that I had to use two swivels and three extensions to do. (This bolt is also the one you don't have to put back in.)

The transmission in my car had been out before. And whoever put it back in did not put the wiring harness straps w/e on the bolts. So I can not tell you about them at all. I know I used a medium Deep 18 mm for most of the bolts(bell housing to engine), and a a 18mm Swivel head long handled wrench for the top two bolts (bell housing mind you) on the passenger side. Which I reached from up top. I did not remove my intake for this.

The Wiring is really not as bad as it seems. It is only as time consuming as your OCD requires it to be. I used weatherproof connectors and a crap load of electrical tape. Expect there to be two wires unused on the new connector FYI. Just do one wire at a time, Pin for Pin. NOT by color.

I started my swap around 8 :30 in the morning and had the transmission out before 10:45. After it was out, I swapped over the parts like the speed sensors (which I cleaned), I took my original Transfer gears (the gears in a 2.7 are a lower set, gives you better acceleration and stuff, but throws off your speedo and fuel mileage. On this note I decided to keep my gears stock) and put them in the new trans. I also swapped over the rear cover (which you have no gasket you have to slobber some black rtv over it)

As I said several times, You just got to be able to figure stuff out as you go. It really is not that hard just time consuming. I ve helped with several automatic transmissions and by far, this is an easy one!
I suggest you put some thread tape on the cooler line fittings on the trans. I ve noticed mine are seeping which I need to fix. Not a HUGE issue....

The exhaust is one of the items you have to figure out as you go. Taking it out and putting it back in is tech a two man job, and requires some puzzle figuring ability to get a square peg to squeeze out of a round hole deal. I do suggest attaching the mounting points on the trans before tighten down the manifold clamps.

And on another note, I sucked out alot of the fluid out of the TQ converter that came with the transmission. And I poured some back in. Overall it took 9 ish qts for the whole thing. I did the transmission pan swap (mine looked better) and filter after everything was bolted in.

What else,

The Diff Fluid! Make sure you change it out too! (in the new trans) mine was kinda nasty. It takes roughly a Qt of 80w-90 gear oil.

Also, disconnect the battery before you begin, I would imagine you already know this but w/e. Expect for the first say 20-50 miles your new trans to shift kinda weird. Mine had a really funky 1-2 change but smoothed out as I put miles on it (which I drive around for several hours after finishing.)

I cannot remember anything else special right not.


Sizes I do remember using, 18mm, 17mm, 15mm, 10mm, and 13mm. I may have missed some.

Goodluck and any more questions just ask!
 
#43 · (Edited)
Nice pic. The only thing I did not have id'd was the tube leading to the solenoid pack.

Speaking of tubes, I looked at the original tranny in the car, and saw the same two capped tubes on top of the trans-- same as my JY unit has. Are these meant for servicing/flushing? Now that I know these are not connected to anything, I am going to try to avoid opening up the cooling system if at all possible. I replaced all the coolant, etc when I did a water pump change last year.

The hardest bits I recall, is the one top bolt on the driver side that I had to use two swivels and three extensions to do. (This bolt is also the one you don't have to put back in.)

The transmission in my car had been out before. And whoever put it back in did not put the wiring harness straps w/e on the bolts. So I can not tell you about them at all. I know I used a medium Deep 18 mm for most of the bolts(bell housing to engine), and a a 18mm Swivel head long handled wrench for the top two bolts (bell housing mind you) on the passenger side. Which I reached from up top. I did not remove my intake for this.
As for reaching bolts from the top, I could only see a couple of nuts on threaded studs on the passenger side that I could see. I am going to remove the airfilter plenum tubing to get better access. I presume to remove whatever bolts I can from the top before lifting the car?

As for the shop, I found it by doing a good ol' google search. In a smart re-use of gov't assets, the local AF base offers affordable car repairs to service members and their families, using the facilities already in place to maintain the base's vehicle fleet. The facilities are also available to DIY folks as a recreational/morale asset. Rates for lift rental are $4/hr indoor and $1.25/hr (!!!!) for outdoor lifts. Unfortunately the building is not A-C'd. A whole array of tools & equip. are available for rental too. It was the shop manager who clued me onto his counterparts at the Navy Station. Naval station has similar rules & hours. Check around with area USAF, Navy, Army bases to see if they offer similar services/facilities! BTW, in the case of our base, retired USAF personnel w/ ID are welcome. Civilians will need escort as described before.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Devan pretty much covered it there...

If you can find a shop to rent you a space, good luck... It will be easier on a hoist, BUT if this is your first time, you may find yourself under the car longer than you want to pay rent for - just fair warning. Having a hoist would have made my job MUCH easier, but I did it on my back on a bad garage floor and it worked fine - but it wasn't my first auto tranny swap (first in an LH, but not first tranny).

Have a friend, have lots of water to keep you cool, have lots of shop rags... have patients and keep your cool. Getting flustered at it will only make the sweat roll into your eyes worse.

As for rotating the 3.3, you really shouldn't ever rotate an engine backwards (can put stress on the cam/lifters that it wasn't designed for), but on a 3.3 it won't generally be catastrophic. I wouldn't fret over having to rotate the crank 10 degrees backwards on a 3.3... on a 3.5 you'll have to re-set the timing if you rotate it back 10 degrees (or at least check it if not re-set it).

And Devan can't be more right about the wire harness... it goes PIN FOR PIN. The harness looks something like this: (YAY ASCII ART!)

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|.................................|
|....6....7....8....9....0....|
|.................................|
----------------------------------

FOR EXAMPLE only - I don't remember the exact pins or number of pins...

You won't end up using like pins 9 and 0... but you will need pin 6 - and depending on year, pin 6 may not be in your harness. You have to pop the connector apart (not hard, I've got pics I'll post up from home for you), and move a pin from 9 or 0 (the two you won't use) into the hole for pin 6... Then put the connector back together and connect the wires from your harness to the pigtail from the donor harness. My connector didn't snap into the tranny well, so I rigged up some zip ties to hold the wire harness to the transmission nicely and keep the connector plugged in.
 
#34 ·
If I recall correctly, The two you did not need were in the middle on the side where the snap clamp is. I looked at several diagrams on alldata and could not find out what they were for. ( Alldata shows basically the same wiring for 93 and 01)

Regardless, just do it one wire at a time, pin for pin (I just cut the wires and connected them did not pull apart the connectors.) Much easier once you get in there. Of Course, I suggest doing this while there is no trans in the way. I was absolutely dreading this part and could only think of disaster but everything worked out!
 
#35 ·
If I recall correctly, The two you did not need were in the middle on the side where the snap clamp is. I looked at several diagrams on alldata and could not find out what they were for. ( Alldata shows basically the same wiring for 93 and 01)
Very well may be, I might have pictures of the wires not used, if so, I'll be sure to post them.

Regardless, just do it one wire at a time, pin for pin (I just cut the wires and connected them did not pull apart the connectors.)
It depends on the year. My 2002 harness HAD to have the corner pin added, it was not there.
 
#36 ·
I'm currently looking through all my pictures online of transmission work - I'm at work so I don't have my own PC here to get pics from...

Anyway, here is the heater tube that will give you fits... you CAN do all the work with out opening up the cooling system - if you already are going to have it opened for another reason, or if you need to flush and fill the antifreeze, you can remove this tube and make life a little simpler - it just exchanges work loads really.

Here is the tube - it is upside down in this pic, the bolt tabs are below the tube when installed on the car:




And here it is as installed in the car - it is dark in this shot, sorry. The transmission is removed in this picture, that is the back of the block, I think on my 3.3. The flywheel/flex plate is seen here as the big toothed arch, the two silver circles are block freeze plugs, and the tube with the bolt tabs is going across the middle.



The challenge with these tabs is that you can't just lift straight up on them... you have to pull them towards the rear of the car to clear the studs, then lift...

If I am remembering right, it is the driver's side that has ONE more complication... when you start, you have to reach up there and remove two 13mm nuts off of the two studs (one each). Then you can fight with the tube. THEN, on the driver's side, you have remove one more ground lug - it just slips off and is out of the way - but if you don't pull it off, you will fight to get your socket on there and swear hard for no reason.

I'll post more as I find more.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Fantastic info!!!

I've trying to figure out what the 2 tubes on the top of the trans are-- do these tie into the cooling system?

The wiring is actually the least of my worries on this job. But definitely the reason I want to get an extra harness ahead of time and do the splice in the comfort of my air-conditioned kitchen!

My biggest concerns for doing the job at home involve safely lifting and supporting the car, and the extreme heat. I figured I would rent an engine lift to transfer my trans from dolly to jack if I do this at home.

The shop with the rentable lifts is not at a place I would have looked -- the local USAF base! All kinds of equip't is available and the rates are unbelievably affordable. The only catch is that I must be vouched for/signed in and accompanied at all times by someone with proper ID and access-- so I may go the route of finding an Airman - helper. The local Naval weapons station has a similar shop, but I have not contacted them yet.
 
#38 ·
If you are going to open your cooling system up, you can undo the tube from the coolant tank (rubber lines from the tank to the rear corner of the passenger side cylinder head) and from the water outlet above the oil filter... probably easier to get to if you remove the alternator and oil filter. There is one more attachment point on the top of the tube, I think to the heater core - you may or may not have to remove this connection - I don't have a 3.3. right now to look at, but I don't think it is TOO hard to get to the heater core connection.

I'll still try to find my wiring pics - they need to be added to the board here anyway.
 
#39 ·
Great find on the shop, by the way! Just have to find person to let you now... I'm curious, how much is the rental and what are the terms (time you can rent it, start and finish time, inspections, etc)? How'd you find out about it?
 
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