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Strut differences

6K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  98IntrepidTan 
#1 ·
Are the front struts themselves the only thing different when comparing SDE, SDD, and SDE? Springs, mounts, and everything else in the front strut assemblies the same? After a 1000 mile trip, my OEM mounts and bearings are shot, making noise, and the Monroe struts from the quick strut assembly are both leaking. I want to go with the strongest OEM strut they make for our cars. How's this look:

4895296AA springs
4782111AH strut left
4782110AH strut right
4782018AB mount right
4782019AB mount left
68140264AA bearing left and right

Is this the best option, or is there something better?



Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#4 · (Edited)
Mods, please move to 2nd gen general discussion. Hit the wrong button on the iphone lol.

OK, police package, code SDB:

For those of you that have the quick struts fail (and the OEM mounts/bearings fail as well like I just did) Going heavy duty like Steph mentioned involves getting the following:

04782779AA (SDB) left strut
04782778AA (SDB) right strut
04782018AB (SDB, SDD, SDC, SDG, SDE) mount right
04782019AB (SDB, SDD, SDC, SDG, SDE) mount left
04782016 - (SDB, SDD, SDC, SDG, SDE) Seat and Bearing x2
04782775AA (SDB) springs x 2
04782238AB (SDB, SDD, SDC, SDG, SDE) Jounce bumper cup x 2
4782112 (SDB, SDD, SDG) Jounce bumper x 2 (note that SDB doesn't show up on the parts manual when searching for the jounce bumper, but entering a police package vin like 2B3HD46V42H258720 will call for the SDD/SDG for use with the police package.

My isolators are fairly new from the quick strut/OEM mount/bearing setups that are on there, but if your starting from scratch with a complete worn system just go polyurethane or monroe isolators.

I just ordered it all, and I'm having the dealer install it all for $300 labor tomorrow so that when it fails again, it will be warrantied. I've had it with the the non durable strut setups on the LH platform that don't last for longer than 6 months...Monroe or OEM, it failed.
 
#6 ·
It's like after the LH's left the factory any replacement part is sub-par. I have all original suspension on my SXT with 230k KM's+ and my Special with 290k KM's+. The Special would need some suspension work though but it's really not that bad for all original.
 
#7 ·
Looks like I got about 14 months out of the drivers side full quick strut assembly, and the passenger side with the quick strut less OEM mount/bearing netted me about 16 months.
Those parts I quoted above even with my 25% discount are going to run around $650.

So basically another $1000 to make it hopefully last longer than another 16 months.
 
#20 ·
When my car was new, it rode very stiff. Don't know about the Special, but I'd imagine at least as stiff as the Special. On some roads my glovebox door would shake open! Part of the reason could be the police spec RS-A+ Plus tires (not the same as regular RS-A, tread is very wide, stiff sidewalls)

At 75k miles, my shocks have loosened up a bit, and the ride is fairly comfy with touring tires, and a "sporty firm" with my 245/45/17 summer max performance tires.

A word of caution if you're going with police springs in the back though: your ass end will sit way up. The Intrepid is already tail-up, and the with police springs, I can have 5 adults with a trunk-full of luggage, and the car is barely level!

I'm looking to get Special springs and struts in the back to level out the car. Anyone know if spring isolators are a must? Mine have all but worn off, and I can't tell a difference?
 
#13 ·
I wouldn't put PoPo springs on it. Maybe Special but that's the max. Whatever springs you decide on will require the corresponding struts. No mix-n-match there.
 
#24 ·
I'll take back what I said about the isolators - I'm suddenly noticing quite a bit of vibration (high freq, sharp) and road noise creeping in, and after researching I'm almost certain the non-existent isolators is the cause.

Paintballdude and Peva, what materials are the Monroe ones made from? I want to go poly partly for the increase in ride height (I realize that's against the norm), will the Monroes offer the same or eventually compress like the OEMs?

I like "rally style" driving, so want the most suspension travel. I know tall isolators won't really increase travel, but it does increase bump travel before hitting bump stops. Besides, I want to level out my car, hence the taller front end. Unfortunately I can't put isolators on the back or it'll sit even higher :(
 
#25 · (Edited)
...Paintballdude and Peva, what materials are the Monroe ones made from?...
I don't know for sure, though the fact that it seems to hold up well over time indicates that it might be a decent grade of polyurethane, which is a premium spring material (used in industry for very severe uses as springs). Any of us can speculate that it might be polyurethane, but without some disclosure from Monroe, no-one can know for sure.

If it's made of fried baby poop, and it works and lasts well, does it make a difference what it's made of? :)
 
#28 ·
Quick update, bought a set of the Monroe isolators under everyone's advice, and they look fantastic so far!

It's made of very dense rubber; got a "heavy duty" feel to it. They also feel fairly tall, and incompressible, which is exactly what *I* want. For guys that want to lower as much as possible, stay away.

I'm hoping to get them installed tmr (fronts only), if I can bust that strut nut loose. I live in a salt-free region and it's still rusted to hell. Been soaking it with 50/50 acetone and ATF, which is the BEST penetrate bar none. Tmr I'll hit it with an impact wrench.
 
#29 ·
Well, I got them done, took lot longer than I planned - 6 hrs for fronts. Mainly due to rusted nuts/bolts and thinking of ways to un-do them without rounding.

Sure glad I saved my OEM struts - when I saw Tokico on there, I knew any Monroe aftermarket stuff won't perform nearly as nice. At 75k, they still have a bit of life left...

Results - MUCH better. No more sharp noise / harshness over expansion joints. Front bumper raised up by a full inch, which is more than the thickness of the new isolators. My theory is that since you're adding thickness within the strut, not only is height increased, but also spring preload.

With more preload, springs are harder to compress, so even more height is gained. The factory firm feel is back. With the increased stiffness, everything feel a tad sharper. The increase in strut travel makes the car much more resistant for bottoming out, no more hitting bump stops on big speed bumps!

Overall - 100% satisfied!
 
#31 ·
...Front bumper raised up by a full inch, which is more than the thickness of the new isolators. My theory is that since you're adding thickness within the strut, not only is height increased, but also spring preload.

With more preload, springs are harder to compress, so even more height is gained...
I'm being picky, but you're over-thinking it. The change in static height at each corner is exactly equal to the difference in the compressed thickness old-to-new cushions. If you think about it, I think the light will go on.
 
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