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2001 300M Code P0161 Back After Sensor Change

7K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  MrBigE 
#1 ·
I'm new to the forum guys but I have researched all the old threads I could find on this issue. I still have a few questions though.

Here is the situation: 2001 300M 3.5L V6. Check engine light on, Code p0161, 2/2 O2 Sensor Heater Failure. I bought a new sensor, NTK 23133, and installed it in the drivers side, after cat position. Fired up the car and check engine light was still on. Shut it down and started it again. Check engine light not on. HOORAY !! Problem fixed.

Well..... For 3 days it was. Check engine light is back on and Code P0161 is back.

Is my new O2 sensor bad? Possibly, I have not ohm'd out the new sensor heater yet.

Could this possibly be a fault in the PCM? I understand there have been some issues with this PCM throwing bad codes.

It just seems strange to me that I had the light out after the sensor change and 3 days later the exact same code is back. I did not cancel the MIL with my scanner, it went out on it's own after the 2nd start, after the sensor change.

I have heard also that a bad catylitic converter can cause faulty O2 sensor codes, but I would think the heater circuit would not be one that is caused by that.

Anyone with experience on this, I would be very appreciative af any info. any of you have.

Thanks,

Mark
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Part of the problem Mark might be you changed the sensor on the wrong side.

Cylinder #1 I believe is on the right, (Passenger), side of the car so, the sensor you changed was the 1/2 O2 sensor. 2/2 would be bank 2, O2 #2, or the driver's side 2nd O2 in line.

Edit: Sorry Mark, I didn't read slow enough. Looks like you did choose the correct sensor. I will check back after a few.
 
#3 ·
2 things,, first,, you dont say you cleared the code,,, remove negitive batt terminal for 20 mins,, and your gonna say im nuts,, but these cars are fussy as hell USE A CHRYSLER o2 sensor,.
 
#9 ·
...these cars are fussy as hell USE A CHRYSLER o2 sensor,.
in the shop I work in, we have had tons of problems with aftermarket o2 sensors,, and the cure 99% of the time is OE...
While it has been established over and over that your typical aftermarket brand O2 sensor (i.e., Bosch) do not generally work well in our cars - sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few months, I thought that a convincing consensus had been formed here over the years that NTK O2 sensors (purchasesd in aftermarket) work well.

As an experiment costing no money and a little of your time, you might swap the sensors you now have in there (or substitute the original one you took out if you still have it) between the two sides and see if the problem moves to the other side (P0141).

There is also the possibility that there is a bad (intermittent) broken wire or connector terminal, which could explain the on again-off again code.
 
#4 ·
You are correct, Dr. Dodge, that I did not state I cleared the code because I did not. The code cleared, by itself, after the second start following the sensor change. I verified there were no codes with my scanner, but I did not use the scanner's clear code function.
 
#5 ·
As to your other point on the Chrysler O2 sensor. You could be right. It is my understanding that NTK is the original sensor manufacturer though. If NTK can't make a sensor to the same standards when they put their own name on it vs Chrysler, then shame on them.
 
#6 ·
in the shop I work in, we have had tons of problems with aftermarket o2 sensors,, and the cure 99% of the time is OE,, and its getting to the point that some fords , are also getting fussy,,
 
#7 ·
My intent on using the NTK was for this very reason. I have heard of numerous vehicle/sensor combinations that do not mix well, regardless of what the parts counter guy says. I'm hoping to have some readings some time next week. Unfortunately, I will not have time until then to work on this car again.
 
#8 ·
Just a note from the driveability list:

NOTE: Allow the O2 sensor to cool down to room temperature.
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the O2 Sensor harness connector.
Measure the resistance across the O2 Sensor Heater element component side.
Is the resistance between 4.0 and 7.0 ohms?
All
Yes ® Go To 4
No ® Replace the O2 Sensor.
Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 5.
 
#11 ·
Yeah, I can't wait to find out. The intermittent you mention though, frankly, scares the hel out of me. I've had a few problem vehicles in the past where intermittent electrical issues caused me all kinds of grief before I finally isolated it.

Wort case ever.... A 1998 Ford Contour. There was a whole section of the underhood harness that required replacement. Fuel injector wires with insulation flaking off in big chunks, fuse/relay block with bare wires in it.... I'm having bad flashbacks now just thinking about it. I did eventually get it all sorted out though.
 
#12 ·
Wort case ever.... A 1998 Ford Contour. There was a whole section of the underhood harness that required replacement. Fuel injector wires with insulation flaking off in big chunks, fuse/relay block with bare wires in it.... I'm having bad flashbacks now just thinking about it. I did eventually get it all sorted out though.
I know it was a PITA back when that occurred for you, but you mentioning that particular model of car, on THIS website, especially right now, is sooooooo hilarious to the regulars here.

:lmao:

Glad to have you here! :D We've got a guy who can totally empathize with you.
 
#14 ·
Only ignorant because you haven't been here long enough. :D

Senior member has no love for Contours, they're a big pain to work on, etc. Yet he became the owner of one just this year, somewhat unintentionally.

Many laughs had at his expense. There's even a thread - I should go find it.
 
#16 ·
I was trying to help out an older gentleman here at work. He was looking to retire and wanted this car to leave here in the states while he spent half of his time in the Phillipines. I charged him some for a head gasket change which is when I found the harness problem. I told him then to get rid of it, but, about another $1,200 later I had the harness changed, A/C working, cooling fan changed, new struts.... the list goes on. Another guy here at work had a Merc. his wife drove. We called it the Mercury Mistake, not Mercury Mystique.
 
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