I have a 1999 Chrysler Concorde, and when I'm driving on the highway around 55 mph or higher I get a vibration in the front end "only" when curving to the right. It doesn't happen when driving straight, going at lower speeds, or curving to the left, "only" to the right. I took it to a local auto place and the mechanic said it was the right inner tie rod, but it would cost at least $500 to fix it because he has to take some stuff apart under the cowl and it will be difficult to get too. He jacked the car up and was showing me play in the front passenger's side wheel. Is he trying to scam me on the price? Can I do the work myself? Is there a way to get to the tie rod?
$500 for an inner tie rod is quite steep. You dont have to replace the whole tie rod, you can buy the tie rod bushing repair kit for $20 or less, and they take about an hour to install, a little longer if you havent done it before. I would find a mechanic that knows your vehicle.
The only thing that has to come off is the windshield wipers, strut brace, and plastic cowling.
Check the 1st gen HOWTO section for a how to on this. It's not bad.
When I did mine, I took off the wipers, cowl grill, strut brace (long piece of metal that goes across from left to right), and the intake pipe until the throttle. Someone here has said that the wipers, cowl grill, do not have to come out. Just the intake pipe has to come out.
in either case, you do what makes you comfortable and give you the most room. The wipers/cowl grills and strut brace are not difficult to remove at all so I would recommend you do those.
After remvoing all this, you can turn the wheel all the way to the right so that the mounting bolts for the tie rod is now very easy to access. In this position, you need a socket wrench to remove the bolts. REMEMBER HOWEVER THAT YOU DO NOT WANT TO REMOVE BOTH BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME!! There is a sliding block in the back that will move if no longer held in position by at least one bolt. So what you want to do is loosen both bolts 4 to 5 turns and then take the one that you are doing first all the way out. That will free up one tierod. Depending on the condition of the bushing, you may be able to press it out very easily with a plier. If the condition is good, you can cut the bushing with a knife and then press it out. DO NOT LOOSE THE WASHER THAT IS BETWEEN THE TIEROD AND THE RACK...
After you install the 2 PIECE STYLE REPLACEMENT BUSHING in the tierod, install the tierod back in. Reinstall the bolt (but don't tighten). Then do the other side. REPEAT: DO NOT REMOVE BOTH BOLTS AT THE SAME TIME. After all this, tighten the bolts down. These NEED TO TIGHTEN DOWN GOOD. I don't remember the torque spec but it's around 80 FT-LB I think. You also need to bend the retaining plate's tab down to prevent the bolt from backing itself out.
This is all!
graduate research associate
Center for Automotive Research
at THE Ohio State University
Well I finally replaced the inner tie rod bushings. It was tough because I didn't realize that getting the one piece bushings from the dealer wasn't the greatest idea because they wouldn't fit. The guy behing the parts counter could've told me, gut I know he wanted to make the sale. I thought it was the wrong size but after reading up on it, I would need a special tool in order to install them. So I went to advance auto parts and got the Moog bushing kit and it fit. It came with the split rubber bushings to put one on each side of the inner tie rod. I learned my lesson! Also, the bolt was a 22mm, not the 21mm which I read about that's in the earlier models. Thanks guys for everything, my car is riding smooth again!
What would one do if some unfortunate soul happened to remove both bolts at the same time? (it didnt happen to me, I'm just wondering)
I think there's a neutral position the sliding block will go to. So you will need to find (or more like feel out) where the block is through the bellow and go from there. It's for sure doable but just a pain in the ass because now you have to reach in very tight areas.