Just picked up a 99 300M in dark green for $1350. 170K miles, and really good condition. I'm still waiting for it to blow up because I can't believe I got such a good deal! This is in addition to my Silver 2000 Intrepid ES (wife's car).
Went to get the alignment done and the place said both sides need new bearings before they can align it. They wanted $506 to do it!! I just replaced the inner tie-rod bushings last weekend and feel pretty confident to do the bearings assembly myself.
Does anyone know the exact size of the nut to remove the hub on a 99 300M? I've read the first gen how-to, as well as the how-to on allpar, and many other threads here, but can't find the exact size. I've seen 32, 33, and 34 all mentioned, but not a definite answer. I guess I could buy all 3 and return the 2 that don't work. I'll be buying a breaker bar too because I've heard they are extremely difficult to loosen.
If anyone knows the exact size for the 2nd gen nut I really appreciate it!
32 front, 34 rear.
Soak with penetrating oil over night, then use a wire wheel in a drill to clean the threads that are exposed first, it will be much easier to get the nut off.
You may need a good length of pipe too as an extension to the handle.
You may need to give the shaft a good solid whack to break it free from the knuckle.
When you re-assemble, just snug up the nut, the assemble the brakes and instal the wheel and THEN torque it (the nut) to 105 FT/LB.
Just wanted to let everyone know my experience to help any others that are going to try this. I successfully changed out both wheel bearing hub assemblies on my 99 300M.
I bought a breaker bar and rented an axle nut socket kit from advanced. The kit had 32mm and 34mm in it, so I figured I'd be good. The 32mm was too small, so I used the 34mm, even though I think 33mm would have been perfect. The penetrating oil helped a lot. The part that gave me the most grief was trying to get the 3 bolts loose on the back of the steering knuckle. I found that an 18mm wrench (Gear Wrench if it fits) worked great for the two bolts on the sides, but I had to use a socket with an extension to get the top bolt loose. I'm 6'3", 260 lbs, and I had a very difficult time getting enough torque behind the wrenches to get them loose. If your wrench slips off the bolt, you'll most likely bust your hand on blunt metal. That part sucked.
Since this is an older car that I got for very cheap, I put the cheaper hub assemblies on there. I got them from Advanced for $67/each. They have the same warranty as the more expensive ones.
Even after buying a few tools (you might need a pry bar to get the old assembly off), I still saved over $300 verses having the shop do it.
The downloaded service manual and the notes from Torontofirecaptain were a great help!
I used a sealed assembly from Advanced. Just ask for the bearing hub assembly for your particular vehicle. It includes new studs for your wheels too. No bearing packing needed. I wish I had done the brakes/rotors at the same time because the shiny new hub would have been fun to pair with a nice new rotor.