My Concorde Is Failing Me!!! - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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My Concorde Is Failing Me!!!

I paid $700 for it, got $300 for the 2 sets of tires and rims on my escort and $225.00 for the scrap metal. I bought the car and the only things that seemed wrong at the time was the ABS light (I figured I wouldn't need to get it fixed because the standard brakes were working fine at the time), I changed the rotors and pads myself along with a rear caliper, I also changed the ball joints for $80. Basically I tallied it up, I have to also replace 02 sensors (picked them up for $50 total), clean the egr valve, fix the foot brake and patch the trans cooler lines.

Now... The brake pedal is mushy and I can push it almost to the floor if I hold it at a stop light, the car brakes well still, But it seems like the MC could give out. I called the garage he says my ABS needs to be diagnosed cause that could be part of the problem and I need the light off for inspection My guess is since the ABS light is on always and never turns off no matter what the ABS Module/Pump is probably done. Well, I can get a reman MC for $50 and a scrap yard pump/module for $75.00 guaranteed to work.

My problem, in my hanes manual it says that I cannot replace the MC and ABS module myself, because the bleeding that needs to be done after requires the scan tool and it is complicated. My question is, is this really true? Is it expensive to have these parts put on and then get the system bled by a mechanic? Is it cheaper if I just change the parts myseld and then get the car toed on CAA for free and have the garage bleed the system? If I change only the MC for now will I be able to bleed it without any trouble?

Or am I better of calling it a day here. I mean the body isn't excellent, but there is not much rust on it for a 94 in Quebec the floors are solid, the only body rust is on the hood, trunk and roof. The engine doesn't take oil and the tranny works fine aside from the small leak at the rubber cooling hoses near the rad. Everything electric still works, climate control (AC is busted though), Power seat, power mirrors etc. etc.

Anyways, this car seems to be a mystery car with new things popping up by the week.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-13-2008, 08:58 PM
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Welcome to the world of the LH vehicle but I am sure that there are a few here that can help you with your issues. Good luck and once it is all fixed it will be worth every penny spent.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 01:07 AM
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the ABS pump needs cycled by a scantool to be bled. My local mechanic charges 80$ to do a flush, and thats a complete system flush old fluid out and new in.

I assume you've checked the fuse for the ABS pump?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veeb0rg View Post
the ABS pump needs cycled by a scantool to be bled. My local mechanic charges 80$ to do a flush, and thats a complete system flush old fluid out and new in.

I assume you've checked the fuse for the ABS pump?
No, I don't even no where it is lol.... My haynes says to check those things, but it doesn't say where they are located.

I'll check though. I am going to get the codes read on an OBD1 to find out what needs to be done. If need be, I'll change the master and the abs myself and have it toed to the garage by CAA to get the bleeding done.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 01:30 AM
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If I'm reading this right. You bought the car for cheap and you are trying to keep it roadworthy for cheap. The proper way to fix the braking system does not fit the idea of keeping a beater on the road $$$ wise.

I'd swap out that master cylinder and try bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way. Bench bleed the master and follow it up with fresh fluid and no bubbles to all four brakes.

It will either work and you are happy or it doesn't and you have to go with paying someoen to cycle the pump.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-14-2008, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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If I'm reading this right. You bought the car for cheap and you are trying to keep it roadworthy for cheap. The proper way to fix the braking system does not fit the idea of keeping a beater on the road $$$ wise.

I'd swap out that master cylinder and try bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way. Bench bleed the master and follow it up with fresh fluid and no bubbles to all four brakes.

It will either work and you are happy or it doesn't and you have to go with paying someoen to cycle the pump.
Well I am keeping it as cheap as I can, but I also want the car to be safe. I'm used to rotors, pads, suspension work, alternator, battery, hoses, radiators etc. etc. You know the basics, I haven't really done hyrdraulics before and I wouldn't want to put my life or others at risk. I know that Midas down the street charges $59.99 to bleed a system with new fluid. The towing with my CAA is free. So I figure if I get the pump and MC for the $150 I can get it and I change them myself, then send it to Midas for the bleeding... I'd could get it all done for about $230. I think that is pretty cheap for new master cylinder and repairing the ABS.

Who knows, though, I'll check the fuse, maybe my ABS is alright or it is something smaller than the pump/module. So I might be able to do it cheap. I'd just like to keep these repairs below $300.
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