Transmission flushes and transmission fluid changes? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Exclamation Transmission flushes and transmission fluid changes?

I've been to quite a few shops lately, and all I've noticed is transmission fluid FLUSHES being offered.

I've been wanting to get my transmission fluid changed, so the last place I went to I simply asked why they don't offer simple transmission fluid changes.

The reply I got was that a simple fluid change will only get rid of 30%-40% of the old transmission fluid, while a flush is needed to do a complete change.

I also remember a while ago another shop telling me I'm better off getting a simple tranny fluid CHANGE instead of flush due to the fact that a flush could detriment some sludge that's settled that actually could be worse for the transmission if it was gotten rid of due to the fact that it has settled and keeps the tranmission in good working condition. Or something like that!

So fellow DI'ers, who's wrong and who's right and what should I do?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:11 PM
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new tranny: can handle flushes, but its never healthy.

old abused tranny: flushes not recommended, get a pan drop

if you go to most chrysler dealerships as i did you will get a pan drop and filter change for around 200$ CDN. Thats what people have recommended in the past, the pan drop is the safest and it wont damage the tranny. The flush has the potential to damage a perfectly operating transmission.

Good luck
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:23 PM
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I went for the pan drop option, rather than flush. My tranny has 115K miles under its belt, so I took no chances. Cost at the dealership was about 180$ US
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neuroticdave View Post
I went for the pan drop option, rather than flush. My tranny has 115K miles under its belt, so I took no chances. Cost at the dealership was about 180$ US
Wise choice!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:42 PM
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good question pork. I've often wondered the same thing. I've also heard that the reason why only 30-40% of the fluid actually gets changed is that the other 60-70% is held back, caught up in some resevoir...maybe the torque converter?? I forget exactly. But, if only 30-40% fluid change for a tranny is ok, then so be it. It's just hard to imagine changing only 30-40% of the oil in the engine....but I guess changing all the tranny fluid isn't a good idea ?? not really sure but always wondered this myself....
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:52 PM
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the torque converter has the locked up oil. Its not that much tho, from what ive heard you are probably replacing most of it and online some is left behind.

I think saying 70% is old is an overestimation, its probably less than 50 to 40% that is not removed.

What is a full tranny? about 8l? i think the dealer mentioned needing around 5L to insert into it. It didnt affect the price of course. A flush would waste a lot of fluid too.

Its a wise idea to replace the tranny fluid on time through a pan drop, the idea that leaving that great sludge behind makes no sense whatsoever, its like suggesting old motor oil is great in a car which is just ridiculous. Oil loses its properties with time and becomes dirty with crap over time. I imagine once the pan drop is done the new and old oil will mix together and you will get more reliable tranny service rather than leaving it unchanged.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 03:03 AM
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One of the best ways to completely replace the fluid (and quite safe if you're careful) is a pan drop + flush & replace using the cooling line.

Change filter and replace pan with fresh fluid, then pull the return cooling line off the transmission. Put a big pan underneath. Start the engine a couple seconds at a time, so you're draining a liter or two, and then immediately refilling again.

I got 10.5 L out of mine, so pretty much a complete flush and then some.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 07:45 AM
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When we dropped the pan on my car to replace the torque converter...we ended up putting back ~ 10 qts. The drain plug on the pan is nice!!



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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 12:57 PM
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When I had the stealership drop my pan, they took out ~8 qts of some ugly stuff.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 06:44 PM
 
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I changed my own-ran car up on ramps, so maybe the angle had something to do with it, but I got a lot out. Put back the # of qts the Haynes manual said (think it was 4 or 5) and had to add 2 more qts to top it off. So 6 or 7 qts out of a 9 qt capacity is close enough for me.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 12:18 PM
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Flush is a money grab. You are being charged to have one of your lines disconnected and have some fresh fluid pumped through. 30-40% of the fluid issue is downplaying the correct way.

Pan drop. It will drop more than 50% of the fluid. Best part is, it's the worse fluid, the stuff in the pan. Along with all the mud and dirt that is laying in the bottom of the pan. Guess what else the flush guys don't tell you. In the pan is the old filter.

An engine leaves about 20% of old motor oil in it too. So what. As long as regular intervals follow getting every last drop out is overrated.

Pan drop FTW.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 01:13 PM
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I reccommend pan drop, filter, then full flush, replacing with synthetic fluid, then change front gearbox with non synthetic gear oil
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2008, 05:53 PM
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flushing using the internal pump is the right way of flushing... ATF+4 is synthetic. So you're good there...
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