3.2 over heating need some advise - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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3.2 over heating need some advise

New to the forum, I have an issue with a 2001 3.2 over heating. Pulled it into the garage to replace the booster, as soon as it came in a hissing sound started to occur. Open the hood to see the coolant reservoir cracked. No big deal I'll just replace it, its got to come out anyways. Finish up the job a day later and attempting to bleed the coolant system is proving to be a pain or there is another issue causing it to over heat. Was wondering if any one had some advice on an easy way to ensure there is no air stopping the coolant flow. Upper rad hose is hot, lower is cool, so its either air, stuck therm, clogged rad, or bad pump? I would assume air because there was no issues with it over heating until I've touched it (other than cracked res) Any feedback or insight would be great, thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 12:48 PM
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they make a special tool for filling the reservoir but you can get by just fine by opening the bleeder valve, sticking a large funnel in the reservoir, and then filling it with coolant. The large funnel helps to create a seal between it and the reservoir allowing the coolant being poured into the funnel to force its way into the system and push out air. Another trick is to take a 1 or 2 liter bottle and fill it with coolant, stick it into the reservoir, and squeeze it to force coolant into the system.

After you have gotten to the point where no air comes out of the bleeder, fill the reservoir up to the correct level. Start up the car and let it get up to temp, then shut it off and it should get out any remaining air on its own.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 12:54 PM
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Btw, has the waterpump and timing belt ever been changed? They are supposed to be replaced every 100,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. And it is not a maintenance item that you want to let go, if the belt breaks the engine will be trashed.

I have yet to see or hear of an internally clogged radiator on one of our cars. The reservoirs do have a tendency to crack along the seam or up and down through the min/max lettering area so the reservoir being a single issue not attributed to another problem is possible. But it is also possible that a bad thermostat or waterpump could have caused the high temperature and pressure that may have led up to the reservoir cracking.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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I've done something similar to what you said while the car was running, antifreeze just bubbled over my funnel. I will try it with the car off as you stated. Car only has 78k miles on it but clearly past that 7 year point. I'll have to add it to the list to get done. Although I'm not looking forward to that task, nothing is easy to work on under this hood!
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 01:08 PM
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I don't think it is that bad but I have also done it 3 times on my own. We can help guide you through it when you get to it.

Just for quick reference in the future, the Gates part number for the kit is TCKWP295, available on rock auto for $159 + shipping. Also a good time to replace the accessory belts, radiator hoses, tensioner pulleys for the accessory belts, and some people replace the thermostat while their at it.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Silly question, how does getting the car to op temp and shutting it off get the rest of the air out? Also, for how long?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 07:51 PM
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What I do is put water in 2 liter pepsi bottles and flip them over and set the open bottles into the over flow tank after first pouring in a gallon of straight anti freeze.

The pepsi bottles seal rather well against the opening and this allows you to easily top off and remove the excess air.

Open bleeder valve after the system has as much coolant as it will take with the bleeder closed.
After the valve is opened, start squeezing the bottles of water into the system until only straight water with no bubbles is coming out of the bleeder valve.
When you have removed the air, just close the valve and then remove the pepsi bottle and close up the system.

I usually do this with the engine running, but not yet heated up.

Last edited by BiliTheAxe; 12-03-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 08:00 PM
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Between the coolant moving around and when it heats up it expands a bit and helps get any trapped air pushed back into the reservoir. Then it pulls in coolant to take the place of the air that gets displaced.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Tried what you guys suggested. It's still overheating. The fans are blowing cold air so I can only assume coolant isn't circulating. The coolant resivior cap loosened itself at one attempt. I'm guessing it built up too much pressure. Either really bad air pocket or something else?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 09:35 PM
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Could be the water pump, the impeller may be messed up, causing it to not move the water thru the system.
Or the thermostat is stuck closed.
Since the lower hose is cool, and that is where the thermostat is, I would start there. It is a pain in the ass to change the thermostat on these cars.
If it is the water pump, I suggest doing the timing belt at the same time.

Last edited by BiliTheAxe; 12-04-2014 at 09:38 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like it was the thermostat. Serious pain to switch out. Job all done, temp never climbed. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 02:13 AM
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Thanks for the follow up. Good to hear you got it fixed. Personally I think the thermostat replacement is more of a pain in the a** than almost anything else.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 12:48 PM
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It's easier to change the timing belt.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 11:39 AM
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I've never had problem with air bubbles and I just dump the stuff in
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