Rattling sound coming from under hood/surging in RPMs - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Rattling sound coming from under hood/surging in RPMs

Hey all,

I was driving down the road this evening when suddenly I could hear a growing rattling sound coming from the front end... sounded like from under the hood. I opened the window to see if I could hear it better when I could smell something that smelled like burnt rubber.

The car also seemed to stall a little bit. I had my foot on the accelerator constantly, but, there was a noticeable sudden drop in speed that you could feel. Once I dropped down to about 55 km/s hour, the rattling noise seemed to go away.

I would really appreciate some help on this one - I'm afraid to drive it now. The car is 2001, 3.2 engine, just rolled over to 100,000kms.

Last edited by Bridger; 12-11-2014 at 09:53 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 12:19 PM
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Has the timing belt/water pump replaced yet? it is way past due time wise, if it has not yet been replaced.
Also check the idler pulleys and accessory pulleys.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 12:27 PM
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Yes, check the timing belt, water pump. Do not drive it or start it until you check it.

If the timing belt is in fact coming apart, or the tensioner has failed, if you run the engine, and it breaks, the engine will be toast.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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I took it to a garage this morning. It was performing normally again when the mechanic took it for a spin. He popped the hood, took a look around and determined that the compressor belt was rattling all over the place - a suspected seized bearing, which would make sense because the A/C hasn't worked for months. He said it was interfering with the drive belt due to its close proximity, which accounts for the burning rubber smell, the rattling and the loss of acceleration (it pretty much felt like a hard gear shift) He also said if the compressor belt goes, it's going to take the drive belt with it. He said to drive it over the weekend and bring it back on Monday where he'll remove the compressor belt to disable it, because, I really won't need the A/C in the winter. He said that should correct the issue. I'm hopeful that it will.

He also said if it was an engine or tranny problem, the sound would be prevalent all the time now and it isn't and I have no check engine lights on. The transmission fluid and oil all checked out normal with no leaks or discoloration.. even the oil was still a decent color and I'm overdue for a change. The only abnormality I've noticed is gas consumption seems to be increasing, but, I've also been driving it mostly short distances only in the cold weather, which could account for that. On the way to the garage, it sounded and handled fine, so, I hope that this is nothing major - I just got this car back in March, I'd hate for it be ruined already.

I asked him about the timing belt and he said with the 3.2s, it should be in decent shape until about 120K. So, it's definitely on my radar to get replaced soon, likely after Christmas.

Last edited by Bridger; 12-12-2014 at 02:31 PM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 11:29 PM
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Just grab a sharp knife and cut the AC belt. It is simple to do, no mechanic needed for that.
You can even saw thru it with a hacksaw blade if you want.

I'm likely the only Intrepid owner to have cut off a belt with a broadsword.

Last edited by BiliTheAxe; 12-12-2014 at 11:31 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-15-2014, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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So, I cut the compressor belt. Shortly thereafter, I could feel the car "chugging" when I put it in reverse. Shortly after that, I was driving along at about 70 km/h when suddenly, I could hear what almost sounded like wind whistling and all the acceleration cut out and the car stopped in the middle of the road. No check engine light came on and the car still sounded normal, but, it wouldn't move forward or in reverse. I had to call a tow to take it back to the garage. Though, apparently the tow truck driver could move it by putting it in 1st gear.

Blown transmission here?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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To answer my own question, yes, the transmission is blown.

My options now are to have it rebuilt, which is probably going to cost a decent amount, buy one from a junker for about $400 plus labor or scrap it entirely.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 01:32 PM
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Get one from a junked 2.7 liter. They are common, and they have a better gearing in them.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Can you use the tranny from a 2.7 in a 3.2? I didn't think that was possible.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 05:38 PM
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They bolt up exactly the same. The differential final gearing is lower for the 2.7L equipped cars. You can use a transmission from any 1998-2004 300m, Concorde, Intrepid or LHS. If you do go with a transmission from a 2.7L you should also change the TCM to get your speedometer to read correctly. The TCM Transmission Control Module) can come from a 1999-2001 2.7L car. You can't use any from 2002-2004.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 07:13 PM
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The wise men have spoken, if you want to save the car, a tranny out of a 2.7L from the yard will bolt up. The lower gear will have your speedo off by 6 MPH.

nice way to save a good car, how did you know the tranny went out?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-16-2014, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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The garage where I had it towed informed me.
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