Can anyone Help!?! "Starting Issue" :( - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-12-2015, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Sad Can anyone Help!?! "Starting Issue" :(

ton
Hi Guys! So I recently as of about a week before Christmas of last year "2014" purchased a 2004 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5 v6 low output..love the car to death besides her tendency to not want to start....

The Car had 90,568 miles when I got her and I really am not too sure what the past history on the car was to say exactly what maybe causing the issue or what it could be, with in about a month of owning the car and dealing with the problem with chronic issue of turning over about 4 times before finally starting, she threw a code and I replaced the crank sensor...it solved the issue for about a week but it still continued after the part was replaced and still hasn't thrown another code to replace it again or something else...
"also note, hot or cold starts doesn't effect the issue"

I am at a loss...the car is now at 93,258 and am stuck between replacing the timing belt thinking that may cause a starting issue due to a loose belt or a worn belt...I have also switched relays thinking it was a starter relay..not sure if it is the PCM...I have read a few formes and several sites saying the Dodge 3.5 has had this issue and a re flashed was what fixed the problem..it also says on my hood that the car has had it's PCM re flashed in 2007..but like I said I have not too much of anything to go by due to the fact I don't know enough history on the car to know if this solved the starting issue

Car runs great once it starts, and also to note it will have days were I can go to the store and everywhere go in and out after any amount of time and my car will start..then the next day it could take me 7 key turns until my car will fire and run.. "it is very Spur-attic"

"I have changed the oil, tested the battery, checked and switched relays, changed the air filter, replaced the crank position sensor "when the first code was thrown"

I have been researching like mad, and can't find anything to help me...any information would be greatly appreciated..I can provide any other information on my ride if it will help me solve this, anyone who takes the time to read this and help it will mean a ton thank you. I just want to drive my baby again without the worry and hassle... :/
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 04:58 AM
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Did you leave the paper spacer on the crank sensor? Was the crank sensor from MOPAR/Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer or aftermarket Autozone/Advance etc??

Most of the time aftermarket sensors do not play well with these cars. For most sensors it has been proven Original Equipment (OEM) work best.

Key dance turn key off-on (not start) three times should display codes on odoometer. write them down and let us know if other codes appear.

You do want the timing belt/waterpump replaced as soon as possible but having a starting/dependable running vehicle is primary.

Most of time we have usually replaced cam and crank sensors at same time. Leave the paper spacer ON.

Don't know where in PA you are but about 40 of us from the 3 forums were at Carlisle last weekend.

2004 300M, LUX, RB1/Sirius Saving flux capacitor for this Inferno Red PEL LOL!!

http://www.motortopia.com/garage/cars/mnitetrain
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 11:30 PM
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PCM's rarely go out so that would be the last thing I would look at! You need to do a fuel pressure test and a fuel pressure leak down test do several and white down the results! I was told to replace the cam and crank sensors in pairs! I had a starting problem with mine and after over a year of chafing it my injectors were leaking! I also found a local shop manager that worked at a dealer efore and he told me the 3.2 and 3.5 had injector problems if you let the idle a lot mainly the squad cars!
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 12:31 AM
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It sounds to me like you have one or more leaky injectors. Once the car sits, the injectors leak out all the pressure in the fuel rail which floods the engine with gas and also requires several cranks to build the rail pressure back up. Try this: Next time the car has sat overnight, turn the key forward but don't start it. Leave it in the forward position to energize the fuel pump and wait 10 seconds, then try to start it. If it starts right away, you know the fuel rail had bled down. Then you just need to solve where the fuel pressure is going.
On a side note, when installing cam or crank sensors with a paper spacer, not only do you leave the paper spacer on, but you are supposed to draw a smiley face on it before install.

Last edited by Battleweary; 07-27-2015 at 12:33 AM. Reason: Joke.
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