Fuel Delivery Quick-Connect @ Fuel Rail Leaking//Broken - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Exclamation Fuel Delivery Quick-Connect @ Fuel Rail Leaking//Broken

EDITED to remove offense.
I have a rather HUGE problem that should be simple.

The delivery line from the fuel tank has sprung a leak at the quick coupler where it connects to the fuel rail. Its either at the 90deg elbow or between the lock-tab insert and elbow or the elbow itself developed a crack...impossible to tell. Had this mess connected to the engine somewhere it could more easily be reached I'd try fuel line that could take the pressure and to ensure it didn't leak I'd put a couple small clamps on either end...BUT its in about the most inaccessible part of the engine compartment behind//below the intake plenum and under the brake master. I can just get one hand back there via the passenger side with the plenum off...SOL getting the other hand around the drivers side maze.

Found replacement line (in sections) whereas the existing is a continuous piece. 80$ plus 50$ S&H since it came all the way from Nova Scotia, Canada...none of the local or chain stores could even give me a part#. It had the Nylon pigtail with a coupler-style quick connect on the end and thought GREAT! Still presents the nightmare of needing to get the car high enough to work under it to get the line off AND drop the tank so I can get to the fuel connection.
But I just realized the extra instruction sheet that came with the 130$ set of lines is for. It wants me to RE-USE the engine side pigtail...the one already on the lines is for the TANK side. I wish it pointed this out in the item info.

I apologize...I had to vent. (I've calmed down so I removed offensive-to-engineers content. I was looking to be one at one point...just couldn't decide on what sort).
I need recommendations on what I can use to replace the quick-connect on the engine side....again its a damned part not carried by stores. The locking blue insert broke when disconnecting the line. My luck I'll have to pay dealership prices.

EDIT:
Oh for the love....will THIS fit? http://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems...or/839146_0_0/
If so they also have the tubing and I might just as soon find a suitable place (OH I wish I could) under the car to cut the line and feed down a section. Would save me the nigthmare of pulling the E N T I R E line just to fix the end. Then i could at least get a partial refund maybe on the fuel line...or not since S&H usually isn't refunded and it cost almost as much as the lines themselves did.

Last edited by RuralTowner; 07-22-2015 at 04:35 PM.
RuralTowner is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 03:30 PM
Bitches be like...


 
beeblebrox82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 16,618
Feedback: 6 / 100%
                     
Garage
I would look into helping you out, but I'm an engineer so... good luck redneck ziptie-ing it together. I'm sure that will work batter than originally designed!
beeblebrox82 is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Sorry if I offended. Wans't the intent. I said I was venting. I'm not the first and certainly won't be the last. Was directed at the ones in the design dept that came up the fuel line system layout at MOPAR or wherever it was thought up...not engineers in general. Maybe I should have specified.

Zip-ties is just plain silly. Not redneck or enough so. Only shade-tree since I don't have a covered carport. Hell don't even have the benefit of the shade tree. All in the nice 120deg sun. I'm just irritated to no end where they PLACED the mess. All these modern cars have a habit of usually putting things (including otherwise simple things) where those who usually can do on their own...can't.

Now at the very least...the link I found for the quick-connect from AZ...would that work? Says its not vehicle specific but I don't want to spend the $ to have to try it out only to have it not work. Essentially wasted 130$ already since it requires using an existing piece that's broken.

Last edited by RuralTowner; 07-22-2015 at 04:40 PM.
RuralTowner is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Any offense inflicted. I apologize. If I can't get a yes//no feedback on the parts I finally did find...then I ask that this apparently offensive thread be removed by mods//admins so damage already done doesn't get worse even though I edited my posts. Originally was stating an opinion...nothing more.
RuralTowner is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 05:46 PM
tgs
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Stuck in Indianapolis until the end of time
Posts: 1,887
Feedback: 3 / 100%
                     
To make it easier on yourself; to make it easier to get in where you're working:
..remove the windshield wipers
..remove the plastic cowl covers
..place a cushion of some sort on the windshield
..unlock the hood lifts from the fender
....(raise the end of the lift on the little post, push the black plastic tab back,
....lower the end of the lift on the little post -- do this on both sides -- then give
....the hood a push and the lifts will pop off of the little posts and you can let
....the hood go back and rest of the cushion on the windshield keeping an eye on
....washer hose at the same time. You want the hood to tilt back but not to stretch
...the heck out of the washer hose.)
..remove the strut brace giving you much easier access to the area you're working in
....(there are nine bolts, four on each side and one a little off center)

--Hope that helps ease the frustration a little

And your issue is not new. I have seen a couple of threads on this over the years.
I think some have solved it by removing the quick connect pieces altogether,
(between the fuel rail and fuel line) replacing it with hose clamps and gas line tubing.
.
.

Last edited by tgs; 07-22-2015 at 05:55 PM.
tgs is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Just looking at that list makes me dizzy. I get what's being said and will look into it. If I can get to the metal tube end it will certainly make things a bit more tolerable.

If I can eliminate the quick-connects the it'd be nice since its clear if they sit in place too long they tend to want to break during removal...and that is even when they are in easily accessible areas where you can get both hands.
Just in case I ordered replacement connectors and roll of tubing (if nothing else THAT part is actually useful).

EDIT: Okay just sounded more complicated. Definitely looks doable. Since the leak was shooting right where the tie rods connection to the rack...disconnecting those will free up a little more room...have to replace the bushings anyway since the gas leak was shooting right at them and disintegrated the rubber...for the 2nd time in a row as it turns out.

Once I have the OLD tubing off and new slid on which small clamps might be best? The tubing isn't as thick as conventional fuel hose so normal adjustable clamps might not cinch down proper.
The old one feels as if a heat gun might have been used...not something it seems to use since the line will still have some fuel in it to provide vapors.

Last edited by RuralTowner; 07-22-2015 at 10:45 PM.
RuralTowner is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 10:58 PM
Bitches be like...


 
beeblebrox82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 16,618
Feedback: 6 / 100%
                     
Garage
can you maybe take a picture once you have the cowl off and can get a good look? I'm having trouble visualizing what is actually gone wrong. I have a 300m in the yard with the whole top of the engine removed and can see in there clearly, but I'm not sure what you're after. Has the main line in failed? Rust? is it just the plastic quick disconnect that failed?
beeblebrox82 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:06 PM
Bitches be like...


 
beeblebrox82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 16,618
Feedback: 6 / 100%
                     
Garage



this little guy? Honestly, you could just cut that bugger off and put some fuel line with fuel line clamps on there one either side. Seems like theres enough room. I'm banging my head against the internet trying to find that green clip
beeblebrox82 is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
It's the plastic end of the line that has gone.

Yup its that cheap hard plastic elbow + clip (thought was blue...never looked closely). When I turned key on to pressurize the system it felt like it was coming out somewhere on the surface of the elbow or though that squarish window.

For quite some time now I've had a 0441 or 0442 code...having to do with the evap system. Now I bet this is what its been all along is some sensor got tripped when it detected maybe 0.01psi fuel drop or something when the leak first started.

As soon as I get the cowl off so I can get a better look in there I'll get a picture.
RuralTowner is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-23-2015, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Taking that cowl off made a HUGE difference. Still PITA but vast improvement. Can even replace the tie rod bushings easier now which I had to undo anyway to work around them.
Here it is. It's the one with my finger under it.
I tried to get an image where the line connects to the tubing but too much other mess in the way to make it look around...and glare (as you can see) coming in from under the car.
I can reach the nylon//steel joint well enough to remove it by chipping away (carefully) with side cutters. Hope new line slides on alright because getting 2 hands down there is going to be a problem if I need to hold the steel line still. Will just need best recommendation for clamps.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0723151314-01.jpg (21.0 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by RuralTowner; 07-23-2015 at 04:30 PM.
RuralTowner is offline  
post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
RuralTowner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bouse, AZ
Posts: 103
Feedback: 0 / 0%
           
Fixed. Went the route of eliminating the quick-connect all together after seeing the connector (otherwise identical to the offending one) wouldn't take the 5/16" line. Don't have a heat gun to soften the line to make it fit the 3/8" connector fitting nor willing to invest in one since I'll probably never use it again.
Got some of the neoprene (or whatever they call it now) 5/16" injector hose. After getting all the old nylon line off, slid the hose far enough over the supply-side lip and double clamped it. 1 keeps it from moving and seals while the other on the outbound side is meant to seal. Had to make a 1" long split on the fuel-rail side to get it over the lip that the quick-connect latches onto...otherwise there would be no way to hold it in place. So 1 just holds and the other seals.
Didn't get home until late so only just now finished getting it all installed and everything back together. Will test drive it to town nearby (14mi round trip) then check to be sure there's no leaks. Already checked by letting it run for several minutes but want to be sure when the engine is drinking at a rate thats more than idle.

Thanks for the info on getting to it. Helped immensely and even more so in just getting to the tie-rod bushings on the rack. Could see what I was doing this time instead of having to 1-hand feel it all. Of course now I'm left with a Brand New...still in the box...set of fuel lines. It's all 3 lines with each being in 2 pieces with threaded unions.

Anyone need or know someone that needs?
RockAuto's listing have the following -
Fits at least 2001-2004 Dodge Intrepid w/ 2.7L (definite) and though there is no listing for those with the 3.2 or 3.5L I'd imagine its still the same.
Same year range of Chrysler Concorde w/ 2.7 (definite) and again probably larger engines as well.
As for the 300M...nothing listed.
Price is listed at $81.
But I'll take 70 + whatever shipping would be to whomever might need.

If shipping hadn't been so much to start with I'd just return but doing so now I'd get back maybe 1/3 of what it cost instead of the full price...minus shipping of course.
RuralTowner is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome