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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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heater blowing cold air

I have a 99 intrepid 3.2 169k miles on it
when I start the car up in the mornings let it sit and idle my heater is still blowing cold air but once I start driving in comes the hot air until I idle again but it doesn't always go back to cold air at idle only 3 out of 5 times I stop the car I have checked my coolant level its fine the heater core isn't leaking in my floor idk what it really could be please help
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 06:54 PM
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Classic symptoms of air in the cooling system. Air needs to be bled out.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 05:40 AM
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I agree with RONBO, There is air in the system, also the worst case price wise if your not a Diy, is that with the Intrepid they had or still have plastic Impellers that over time will lose its grip on the shaft it spins on causing it to spin less or aka as slipping not having enough force to push the fluid to have that constant flow. But when you drive it forces it to spin faster with the slipping to give it the force it needs which will make it warmer/hotter... I've had two Intrepids do that to me, without the car leaking fluid to say the WP was done... Just a thought if all else was replaced (Thermostat ,Cap ,Hoses, Heater Core, Etc) and bleeding was done right...
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Classic symptoms of air in the cooling system. Air needs to be bled out.
so in order for me to bleed the cooling system I need to loosen 2 of the bleeding valves that's on my car right?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hardy07060 View Post
I agree with RONBO, There is air in the system, also the worst case price wise if your not a Diy, is that with the Intrepid they had or still have plastic Impellers that over time will lose its grip on the shaft it spins on causing it to spin less or aka as slipping not having enough force to push the fluid to have that constant flow. But when you drive it forces it to spin faster with the slipping to give it the force it needs which will make it warmer/hotter... I've had two Intrepids do that to me, without the car leaking fluid to say the WP was done... Just a thought if all else was replaced (Thermostat ,Cap ,Hoses, Heater Core, Etc) and bleeding was done right...
what are the impellers and how would I go about changing them
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
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so in order for me to bleed the cooling system I need to loosen 2 of the bleeding valves that's on my car right?
?? Where do you get that there is more than 1 coolant bleeder. I ask because if you're getting info. from bogus sources, we need to let you know that.

There's only one bleeder. Follow the procedure in the FSM if you want to properly bleed it. No aftermarket manuals.

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Originally Posted by cdawg View Post
what are the impellers and how would I go about changing them
If you look at the rear (engine) side of a water pump, the disc that's 3 to 4" in diameter with spiral-shaped vanes is the impeller. So if the impeller is truly loose on the shaft of the water pump, you'd have to replace the whole pump. However, that's some expense and a bit of labor. Properly bleed the system before going to that trouble as that could very well be the problem.

Having said that, the timing belt change interval is 100k miles or 7 years, whichever comes first. Blow that off and you could end up with serious engine damage (when your timing belt breaks). So if the mileage or time on the belt is over that, replace it and the water pump ASAP. Use only OEM water pump as most aftermarket for this engine is crap (and frankly OEM water pump isn't that great either).

Also - *if* the water pump has been replaced, unless you know otherwise, there is in fact a good chance a crap aftermarket one was used, and maybe a loose impeller *is* the problem.

Sorry, but you've got some things to assess and decisions to make based on the above guidelines, but possibly with incomplete information.


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Last edited by peva; 10-05-2015 at 12:09 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-18-2015, 09:08 PM
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I have a 2001 300 the heater control display cuts on and off. The heater only blows cold air. replaced the upper heater hose. Ran car, took forever for the hose to radiator to left side of radiator to lower hose to heat up. Heat never blew hot....... HELP!!!!!!!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 05:12 AM
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You have got to be more precise about your information. Some things need to be evaluated and choices to make depending on the above recommendations.
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