Upcoming 1800 mile trip - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Upcoming 1800 mile trip

Good morning fellow Chryslerans. I have an up coming trip to Idaho. I'm looking at 1800 miles total with some 6% grades along the way. Weather will be mild.

Other than the fluids, is there anything I could check or replace that may ruin trip? Coolant will be changed, oil has 1000 miles on it, tranny fluid is newer, and tires are decent. I only stop for gas and pee breaks. Will I be over taxing the LHS with
130, 000 on the odo by doing 850 miles in a day? Thanks! Any advice is appreciated.
Milk Hauler is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 01:42 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
bh1992's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Osceola, IA
Posts: 6,348
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
Garage
If the routine and scheduled maintenance items are up to date then you should be fine. Has the waterpump and timing belt been replaced? How about the accessory belts and radiator hoses?
bh1992 is offline  
post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bh1992 View Post
If the routine and scheduled maintenance items are up to date then you should be fine. Has the waterpump and timing belt been replaced? How about the accessory belts and radiator hoses?
The fluids are good. The WP is new, but the PO is not sure about the belt. I'll stop at Vato Zone and grab some spare belt and radiator hoses.

Someone told me the first gens are non interance motors? I won't have enough $$ to address the belt till next month. I have to do this trip before Nov 1st. I'm rolling the dice on the TB.
Milk Hauler is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 07:26 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.

 
MrBigE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pickerington OH
Posts: 18,595
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
Yeah on the 1st Gens, if you lose the TB, MOST of the time you're good to go just putting a new one on. Technically they're listed as interference, but the consensus seems to be that there's only a small chance of the internals colliding.

My concern is that at 20+ years old, original TB/WP are well into borrowed time. If this were 2004, I'd not hesitate to say "drive that rascal!"... Failure due to age is probably your biggest risk at this point.

YMMV - good luck!
MrBigE is offline  
post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBigE View Post
Yeah on the 1st Gens, if you lose the TB, MOST of the time you're good to go just putting a new one on. Technically they're listed as interference, but the consensus seems to be that there's only a small chance of the internals colliding.

My concern is that at 20+ years old, original TB/WP are well into borrowed time. If this were 2004, I'd not hesitate to say "drive that rascal!"... Failure due to age is probably your biggest risk at this point.

YMMV - good luck!
Yeah thx for the advice. Unfortunately Idaho has to do a vin inspection on all out of state cars. The plates expire 11-1-2015, I could get an extension at tbe California DMV, but loathe the thought of waiting in line for 3 hours and giving my money to the state. If I have any problems in route, I know you guys are my best help. Thanks again guys for the helo.

Btw.. I have have on order new belts including the TB, WP, and coolant hoses. I think I'll have a shop do the WP and TB. I'm too lazy to remove all that stuff Chrysler crammed in there.
Milk Hauler is offline  
post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 08:09 PM
Woober Goobers!

 
Ronbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tiny Pebble, AR
Posts: 48,722
Feedback: 44 / 100%
                     
MoonBeam Brown and the rest of the LibTards are screwing the state of California on everything. If you can register the car in another state do it.

I lived in California for 30 years so I know a little about it!
Ronbo is offline  
post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
The WP was changed 50,000 mi ago. The PO nit sure about the rest. I have all the before mentioned parts in my amazon cart. Waiting till next payday to to click the checkout button.
Milk Hauler is offline  
post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 09:29 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.

 
MrBigE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pickerington OH
Posts: 18,595
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
WP done 50K miles ago? If the TB was also done at that time (only the uninformed would NOT change the TB when doing the WP!), then I feel much better about your situation.
MrBigE is offline  
post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
When I get back I'll have a week off. WP and TB will be replaced by shop. I want piece of mind knowing next time it needs done again, the car will be long gone. Like I mentioned in a previous post, this will be a road trip car only. Mabe 5-6k highway miles a year.

I have in my amazon cart...

Upper and Lower radiator hoses
New brakes and rotor all the way around
Magnifine external trans filter and cooler
Tie rods inner and outer
Wix air, fuel and oil filters

I know Im forgetting some stuff, but most of the original serviceable parts will be replaced with new parts by the spring. The body and interior are so nice, Ive decided to keep throwing money at this car, as chrysler keeps making the parts. I have a nephew who I gave a 96 Camaro Rs to, so monies are a lil tight atm. I think I could baby this car for 10yrs, then get a newer 300, an old school new yorker with the 318 motor? I had an old dakota with the 318. It was a beast.

Last edited by Milk Hauler; 10-05-2015 at 09:46 PM.
Milk Hauler is offline  
post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 09:39 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
mnitetrain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: s/e ma
Posts: 13,687
Feedback: 2 / 100%
                     
Love to get my hands on a California LHS, yeah even a 1st gen!
mnitetrain is offline  
post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 02:33 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Ravin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,288
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned. If you have the 3.3L it is an interference engine. The 3.5L is the non-Interference.
Just wanted to add some good advice since I've been gone for a while.
Ravin is offline  
post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravin View Post
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned. If you have the 3.3L it is an interference engine. The 3.5L is the non-Interference.
Just wanted to add some good advice since I've been gone for a while.
Thank you Ravin. Before I bought the Chrysler, I knew it was a non IF motor. That's what sold me. I wish it was a chain like the 2.7, but we all cant have our cake too.

I just subcribed to AlllDiyData and read all up all TSB's and maint procedures. I asssumed the timing belt would be a major pain, but looks like my flabby trucker body might be able to tackle it. There is a video on YT by 1A auto, where he does a belt on a first gen 3.5. I mean if its a non IF motor, than how bad can I mess the job up? Haha!

I have a complete kit on order including a TB, WP, tensioner pulley, and hyd pusher thingy. After browsing some stickies, I may try my hand at it when I get back. Hopefully I wont have to do the walk of shame and create a thread called " Why won't my LHS start"?
Milk Hauler is offline  
post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 05:24 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Ravin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Maine
Posts: 4,288
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milk Hauler View Post
Thank you Ravin. Before I bought the Chrysler, I knew it was a non IF motor. That's what sold me. I wish it was a chain like the 2.7, but we all cant have our cake too.

I just subcribed to AlllDiyData and read all up all TSB's and maint procedures. I asssumed the timing belt would be a major pain, but looks like my flabby trucker body might be able to tackle it. There is a video on YT by 1A auto, where he does a belt on a first gen 3.5. I mean if its a non IF motor, than how bad can I mess the job up? Haha!

I have a complete kit on order including a TB, WP, tensioner pulley, and hyd pusher thingy. After browsing some stickies, I may try my hand at it when I get back. Hopefully I wont have to do the walk of shame and create a thread called " Why won't my LHS start"?
It's been a long time since I changed a TB. If memory serves me right, it wasn't difficult... just a time consuming. I remember the front engine cover being haved at the crank pully so It was fairly easy to slide the belt on. The biggest problem I remember having, was the cam alignments. I remember having a bit of play in the OHC's causing the alignment marks to move around a little as I put tension on the TB. The water pump shouldn't be an issue (just a couple bolts). I believe the job took me a good part of the day. Mainly because I took it slow so I wouldn't lose any parts.

Ravin is offline  
post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 38
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravin View Post
It's been a long time since I changed a TB. If memory serves me right, it wasn't difficult... just a time consuming. I remember the front engine cover being haved at the crank pully so It was fairly easy to slide the belt on. The biggest problem I remember having, was the cam alignments. I remember having a bit of play in the OHC's causing the alignment marks to move around a little as I put tension on the TB. The water pump shouldn't be an issue (just a couple bolts). I believe the job took me a good part of the day. Mainly because I took it slow so I wouldn't lose any parts.
Thank you sir for the advice. Nice Jeep too! Makes me miss my old 89 XJ. It had the last of the renix amc system. It was a freegin beast in the snow. The 4.0 was a tractor motor with a computer. I challenged every other Jeep I saw in town to off road races. Some I won, but most I lost. It grunted and farted everytime I floored it, but never left me stranded. It was a true beater. Unfortunately it contracted a case of body pan rot. Common for the XJ's.

When I get back I'll have a whole week to mess with the lhs. I will keep the cams locked with a lil tool from Amazon. Its another excuse to get a handy dandy doo- dad. I've also been wanting an air ratchet and impact gun to speed up repairs on the truck, so I might as grab one at home depot too. I have to rent a 3 jaw puller at Vato Zone, unless you guys have a better way of removing the crank pulley? I would have never guessed the repairs on this car were so diy doable. Im no mechanic, but I stil like to tinker with things.

If there is anymore advice, then foward it to me. Im willing to listen. I'm only a know it behind the wheel, but never under the hood.

Last edited by Milk Hauler; 10-07-2015 at 10:45 PM.
Milk Hauler is offline  
post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-07-2015, 11:57 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
EagleESI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chatt, TN
Posts: 4,277
Feedback: 3 / 100%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravin View Post
I'm not sure if it's been mentioned. If you have the 3.3L it is an interference engine. The 3.5L is the non-Interference.
Just wanted to add some good advice since I've been gone for a while.
Oddly enough I know of a 3.3 that sheared the crank key on the timing gear, allowed rotation while passing another car and did not bend the valves!!


Also, most parts stores will have a "chrsyler" specific puller for the balancer fyi.
EagleESI is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome