Rear timing cover leak repair--major pain!!! - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Rear timing cover leak repair--major pain!!!

I'm new here, hoping for some helpful advice, soon. I have a 97 Concorde, 223k going strong. Lots of parts replaced including a recent radiator. Right after the radiator replace, a coolant leak developed from the front of the engine. Using a pressure tester I found it was leaking from the water pump housing right side o-ring and also the o-ring behind the water pump itself. I did this exact repair 3 years ago including new pump (and I do everything meticulously so this has me a bit frustrated). I've got it all torn down and cleaned up real nice, except there seems to be a lot of pitting in the o-ring grooves on the back of the water pump housing, mainly the large one. QUESTION: Can I use high temp RTV oil-resistant sealant in that groove and then put the new O-ring in to make sure it seals?

Also, I found the cam thrust plates to have cracked seals. QUESTION: Can I get away with cleaning them real good and applying a bead of RTV sealant to fill/recoat? I don't have days to chase down hard-to-find parts or buy online.

Experienced advice is much appreciated!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 12:10 PM
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Must be similar to the 2nd gen. 3.2/3.5 in those areas.

Probably better than RTV for providing a good seal with new water pump rear o-rings would be J-B Weld to fill the corrosion pits and then filed/sanded down flush. That's what some here have done on the same problem on 2nd gens. RTV might work, but I personally would trust a J-B Weld-as-filler repair more for that.

On the rear cam plates, again, I don't know if they are the same design as the 2nd gen. in that area or not, but if so, I know that the 2nd gens take a standard -136 size o-ring, so if you could find that locally, that would do it. If you had time (and, again, if it's the same design as the 2nd gen. in that area), I'd recommend buying a bag-o'-10 Viton -136 o-rings off of ebay (for less than $10), Viton being a better material than regular buna-N/nitrile. Again, RTV might work - it's oil, but not under pressure. On the 2nd gen., one of the cover plate bolts goes into a thru-hole, so you'd need to put RTV or other type of sealer on the threads of that one bolt in addition to whatever you seal the cover plates with.

Sorry if anything above doesn't apply to 1st gen. If not, then hopefully someone can provide the 1st-gen.-specific info.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info. I believe the second gen is the same as first gen in those areas. I would prefer a new o-ring for the cam plates, but I also thought about how the oil is not under pressure. I realized one of the bolt holes was a thru hole when a river of oil came pouring out and all over the back my engine!

Are the original cam thrust plate o-rings nitrile or viton? I found a local dealership that has two of them. I'm not too worried about it, after all these miles and even a cracked o-ring I still never had an oil leak on the back of the engine! The only bad thing about using RTV is waiting 24 hours to cure.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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By the way, what is the best solvent to clean gasket ceiling surfaces? I usually use brake parts cleaner or something similar on a lint free shop cloth. But being out of that I used a citrus degreaser. It feels very clean but should I be concerned about residue that might cause a poor seal?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 12:45 PM
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I'm sure the original ones would have been viton. Nitrile/buna-N is only rated to about 220 degrees. I would be sure to use some kind of solvent on the sealing surfaces. Things like citrus degreaser typically leave a slick residue.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 06:46 PM
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Yeah, brake parts cleaner would be good, leaving essentially no residue, but even if there is oil left on the surface, that should be no harm for the o-ring. In fact, I generally coat o-rings and mating surfaces with a light coat of oil when installing. It can prevent the surfaces of the o-rings from getting damaged/scraped/torn/pinched as mating parts compress and slide over the surface of the o-ring. It's when you rely on RTV or other adhesives that it matters to get things thoroughly clean.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjgrantham View Post
...Are the original cam thrust plate o-rings nitrile or viton? I found a local dealership that has two of them...
Don't count on it. On the 2nd gen part, they now sell paper/cardboard gaskets in place of o-rings under the same part number. If the part number is 4536492 or 4536492AB, then you can be sure that is the case.

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Originally Posted by bh1992 View Post
I'm sure the original ones would have been viton. Nitrile/buna-N is only rated to about 220 degrees...
On the other hand, maybe they are buna, and that's why so many people have to replace them.

Last edited by peva; 11-13-2015 at 07:08 PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-14-2015, 02:04 PM
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"right stuff" seals through a light oil film, and can be put into service right away. no waiting 24 hours. (remove coolant completely though. doesn't stick worth a crap to it.)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-14-2015, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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I'll check that out, never heard of "right stuff" before. Thanks for the tip!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Can "right stuff" be used in combination with o-rings?

These o-rings seem insufficient, especially with the way the aluminum housing has become rough and pitted in places along the sealing surface. I do not want to have another leak and have to open this back up!
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Last edited by mjgrantham; 11-18-2015 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Added comment
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015, 01:29 PM
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Can "right stuff" be used in combination with o-rings?...
Should work for these cam covers. It's not like these seals see pressure like seen by the O-rings on the rear of the water pump. There, again, due to coolant system pressure, I'd fill the pitting with something substantial/solid, like J-B weld.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2015, 02:30 PM
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if that's the worst of your pitting,. a good smear of right stuff on the back where the o ring will mate will do fine. in other words, the flat side in your picture. a good bead smeared down a bit, and then assemble.
don't go excessive. as much as squirts out is as much that squirts in, which isn't always a good thing.
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