Concerned with mechanicís work on my exhaust - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Concerned with mechanicís work on my exhaust

My 2000 Chrysler LHS was making exhaust noise, a mechanic I brought it to said it was the driver side CAT flex pipe.

I bought the new CAT and brought it to another garage who was oil spraying the bottom of the car for me and asked if they could do it. They held the car for 3 days because the V-band clamp bent and they needed a new one from the dealer. Annoying, but whatever, that stuff happens. The mechanic also alerted me that the passenger side flex pipe was rotten too, but the cat was fine.

I picked the car up and it was actually louder than before the driver side CAT was changed and there was a clicking sound coming from the driver side. Thinking it might still have to do with the passenger side flex pipe, I ordered the part and brought the car back.
They held the car for two day to do the repair. When I went to pick it up, they said they had a mishap handling the exhaust and damaged one of my O2 sensors. They said bring it back in a couple days and we will replace it for free.

So now, I am waiting to change the O2 sensor, but there is still a slight ticking from the driver side that lessens when warmed up and when I pop the hood I can smell exhaust fumes around the alternator area. Upon further inspection, as I looked further back I saw that the post-cat driver side O2 sensor wires were all ripped out and gone, which was expected since they have to replace an O2 sensor. However, when they broke this sensor, they were only changing the passenger side flex pipe, how did they end up breaking the driver side O2?

With the noise and exhaust smell, I feel like I might be lucky and that it is just the v-band clamp that is not tightened properly, but another part of me is worried that they were rough when removing and putting in the driver side cat, which broke my O2 sensor and may have in my opinion cracked my manifold. Although the car was loud before, it did not have this ticking and the exhaust fumes were coming out from under the front doors, not the front of the engine compartment.

The car has 104K on it, no rust and is in great shape, but repairing a busted manifold was not in my plans and I feel as if this was their fault if this is the case.

To top it off, the mechanic who did the work was fired at the end of the day when I went to pick the car up.

What would you guys do here? The passenger side is not making any noise and I donít smell any fumes around there.
Leon22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:16 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,111
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quite an ordeal.

1) Make 300% sure that they do not - repeat - do not use an aftermarket O2 sensor - dealer only, unless they use NTK/NGK or Denso. The electrical aspects of Bosch and other aftermarket O2 sensors are designed incorrectly for our cars even though they list and sell them for our cars. If they don't agree in advance to use the OEM (or NTK/NGK/Denso) sensor, don't let them do the work because it will be guaranteed to not work correctly.

2) You might have to totally loosen the V-clamp, make sure the 'V' fits over the ends of the manifold and the downpipe so as to properly pull them together. I had this problem when I did an engine swap earlier this year, and people here told me about often having to loosen and re-tighten the V-clamp sometimes to make sure it seals. Problem solved.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Quite an ordeal.

1) Make 300% sure that they do not - repeat - do not use an aftermarket O2 sensor - dealer only, unless they use NTK/NGK or Denso. The electrical aspects of Bosch and other aftermarket O2 sensors are designed incorrectly for our cars even though they list and sell them for our cars. If they don't agree in advance to use the OEM (or NTK/NGK/Denso) sensor, don't let them do the work because it will be guaranteed to not work correctly.

2) You might have to totally loosen the V-clamp, make sure the 'V' fits over the ends of the manifold and the downpipe so as to properly pull them together. I had this problem when I did an engine swap earlier this year, and people here told me about often having to loosen and re-tighten the V-clamp sometimes to make sure it seals. Problem solved.
I will double check what O2 sensor they ordered before they do the work, thanks for the heads up, I had no idea aftermarket ones didn't work. My guess is it will be NGK or Denso as that is pretty common up here.

I am really hoping it is the v-clamp and not my exhaust manifold! I will have them double check that. If there are manifold issues, I guess I will have that discussion with them if it gets to that.
Leon22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 12:23 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,111
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Bosch O2 sensors are *very* common in aftermarket, so yes - do check.

I'd be surprised if the manifold is broken - hopefully not.
peva is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Bosch O2 sensors are *very* common in aftermarket, so yes - do check.

I'd be surprised if the manifold is broken - hopefully not.
I'd be surprised too, the car is old, but 100,000 km or 60,000 miles is still quite young in my books.
Leon22 is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 08:35 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,111
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
FYI, here's an earlier post with video that explains the problem with many (especially Bosch) aftermarket O2 sensors that are listed for our cars. The LH internet community learned the hard way that Bosch O2 sensors did not work on our cars. It wasn't until someone (I forget who) first posted this video that it was understood why. It's a rather long video, but you'll get the idea after a few minutes without watching the whole thing:
Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
IIRC, this video was not made known to our community until after this thread, so this is a good time/place to post it again with this thread being revived. It explains that there is a real design difference between the OEM and the Bosch (and most likely other aftermarket) O2 sensors that explains why the aftermarket sensors do not work with our cars (OEM signal is referenced 2.5 volts *above* ground rather than *at* ground - creates an extremely marginal running condition so that depending on any individual vehicle operating points and the operating conditions, the engine could run intermittently, or not at all).

(The guy made one mistake by saying that NGK spark plugs are not OEM for this car, which he identifies as an '02. NGK was the OEM plug for 3.5 starting in '02 (3.2 also was discontinued in '02). Won't hold it against him - he obviously knows what he is doing. He obviously just did not know about that change.)

You have to wonder how companies can be so dishonest or dumb (sometimes hard to know the difference) to keep listing parts for applications in which they should know they are not compatible.

peva is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
It has been settled, thanks for the input. The mechanic put in a mopar sensor. As for the exhaust noise, he fiddled with the clamp and it is pretty much gone. There is a slight noise on acceleration and on cold start and this appears to be on the exhaust manifold side which is annoying! It is so slight though, the mechanic said don't bother (it is barely noticeable, an untrained ear wouldn't hear it).

For the trouble he caused, he installed my middle muffler (which I provided) and supplied the clamps at no charge, which is a fair gesture IMO.

Car sounds 100 times better now.
Leon22 is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-17-2015, 07:22 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,111
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Glad you got it worked out.
peva is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
I knew my gut was right. After a couple of weeks now, I started to smell exhaust in the cabin of the car and the noise around the manifold was getting louder.
Not wanting to deal with the hack who worked on it last time, I brought it to an exhaust shop with a good reputation to have a look. Well, bad news, but not as bad as having broken manifolds.

The hack who initially did the work, deformed the manifold flange by tightening the clamp too much and then covered it all in exhaust cement to try and seal it. The shop was able to fix this and the noise is gone.

Then they told me that he also applied cement all over the inlet and outlet connections where the pipes meet the front resonator. They opened it all up and the hack that worked on it had completely crushed the inlet and outlet pipes. The shop had to cut-off the ruined pieces of piping and weld in new pieces (the resonator was 4 months old, so they wanted to salvage it for me).

Finally, there was a leak at the rear most muffler and I had brought this part to be changed originally, but the hack said to me not to worry about it, that it didn't need to be replaced. When the shop inspected it, they said there is a hole in the muffler, but that it was packed full of muffler cement to seal it up. They told me not to worry about the rear for now because it is sealed and holding. I had a really good deal on the muffler and sent it back to the company I got it from because the hack said it wasn't necessary, I wasted money on shipping, that I will probably have to spend again in a year when it really starts leaking.

Talk about a hack job!!! Now I have to go try and wrestle back the money from that loser to cover all the work that had to be done to correct his terrible work!

His work was dangerous and put my wife and I at risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, I am really not impressed.
Leon22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome