Timing Belt and Water Pump Service - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Timing Belt and Water Pump Service

As stated in the title, I am considering doing this soon. My car is a 2000 Chrysler LHS with 106,000 KM (66,000 miles). Should I do it based on the age or am I safe waiting until the manufacturer recommended service interval of 160,000 KM (100,000 miles)?

If I decide to go through with it, does anyone have any experience with the DNJ kit? It seems like the most complete kit out there for the best price.

I would use this opportunity to swap the coolant as well. I have three bottles of Recochem coolant that is supposedly made for Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep, It is orange in color, you can see the specs here
, Does this seem like a safe alternative to picking it up at the dealer?

I am still not decided if I will do this myself or bring it to the shop. How many hours labour would this be for a professional shop? If I do it myself, I will refer to one of the write ups already here. is it doable with just ramps? I can turn a wrench, have changed struts, radiator, p/s pump, valve cover gaskets, but never done a timing belt before, would it be a bit too much to do on my own?

Thanks for answering!
Leon22 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 05:38 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
98IntrepidTan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,254
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon22 View Post
As stated in the title, I am considering doing this soon. My car is a 2000 Chrysler LHS with 106,000 KM (66,000 miles). Should I do it based on the age or am I safe waiting until the manufacturer recommended service interval of 160,000 KM (100,000 miles)?
Yes, you should do it. The interval is 105,000 miles (~169K km) OR 7 years whichever comes first. Better to replace the timing belt / water pump now and avoid the much more expensive timing belt / water pump / heads repair later. Even if this service has already been done, it's likely time soon again anyway.

I'll let others comment on the timing belt / water pump set you've found. I've used the Gates kit from RockAuto (shown here) with good success.

Others will likely comment on your coolant choice also.

I think you would be able to do this service. I believe I took about 5 cautious hours to do it the first time. I could probably do it in two now if pressed.

Good luck with your project!

'98 3.2 Intrepid ES - Champagne Pearl (PTE) [Formerly owned car - 98IntrepidTan]
'04 3.5 Intrepid SE - Stone White (PW1) "Car 561, where are you?!?"
Bookends to the 2nd Generation of LH cars

Other cars:
'96 Mazda Protege
'15 Nissan LEAF
98IntrepidTan is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:36 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,108
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
I would stay away from that particular antifreeze if for no other reason than their information is deceptive, so you don't know what you're getting.

Our cars require G-05, AKA HOAT - period. No mention of that on their site. Also, they use the term "OEM" fraudulently. Their antifreeze is no way OEM. Also "MEETS OR EXCEEDS PERFORMANCE REQUIREMENTS OF" are marketing weasel words (AKA B.S. with a capital 'b' and a capital 's').

You can get Zerex G-05, or the Chrysler/Mopar 5-Year/100k Mile (from dealer), or Ford/Motorcraft VC-7-B Gold (they've changed the packaging - now comes in a red container - from dealer). They are all true G-05 HOAT. Chrysler's is reddish, Zerex and Ford are yellowish.

Also, all aftermarket water pumps and belt (or chain for 2.7) tensioners for these cars are suspect these days.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Thank you 98, I guess I will give it a shot myself once things warm up.

Peva, I guess I figured the Recochem product was OK because they have 9 different formulations depending on the make of your vehicle, so I assumed they were using the right chemistry. I guess where it gets murky for me is that the FSM says to put in the Mopar 5 year/100,000 mile coolant or it's ethylene glycol equivalent with corrosion inhibitors (HOAT). The Mopar 5 year/100,000 mile coolant is the MS 9769 formula. The Recochem, although it does not say HOAT, it does say that it meets the MS 9769 requirements, is that not sufficient? I sent them an email for further clarification to see if this is actually HOAT or not.

Also Peva, from what I gather, are you saying I should buy the water pump and tensioners from the dealer and the belt and additional seals can be purchased in the after market?

Thanks.
Leon22 is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:37 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,108
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
I don't want to overstate the case on either subject.

I just question why they don't/can't claim HOAT or G-05. Is it a chemistry/precise formula issue or is it a licensing issue? It may be fine, but I would stick with Ford and Chrysler-branded products for that, or the Zerex because it explicitly says it is G-05.

On the 3.2/3.5 aftermarket water pumps, from what I read, it is a real problem having any confidence on the quality. From what people have posted, there is some real crap out there. And some feel that the water pumps the dealers sell are not as good as they used to be either, and are in fact the same as some that you find in aftermarket - maybe as good as some of the better ones, but that's not saying much. Perhaps tensioners are not too bad.

I do know that it seems that every time someone posts about using aftermarket water pumps and tensioners for the 2.7 engine (different parts than what are on the 3.2/3.5), it always ends up in disaster due to parts issues. All indications are that the 2.7 water pumps and chain tensioners from the dealer are still good quality parts.

So I think there is a lack of confidence among people here for 3.2/3.5 water pumps from either aftermarket or dealer, but with some aftermarket ones being a lot worse than others, so unless you know a particular brand for that is at least 'OK'. your chances might be better with one from the dealer (known mediocre a better risk than known somewhere-in-the-range-of mediocre to absolute crap). 3.2/3.5 belt tensioners might be OK in aftermarket. Timing belt I'd stick with Gates or from dealer because I just don't know the other brands to have any trust in.

Those are opinions, and I can't prove much of it - just general perceptions from personal experience in some cases, and reading the LH car forums for quite a few years.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs

Last edited by peva; 03-03-2016 at 12:40 PM.
peva is online now  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 12:48 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
bh1992's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Osceola, IA
Posts: 6,339
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
Garage
The dealers only stock value line pumps for 3.2/3.5s, and I believe the ones they sell are the same as the ones you can get from autozone (white plastic impeller). Gates tensioners and belts seem to hold up just fine. I would just get the whole Gates kit since any water pump at this point is questionable. I believe the part number was TCKWP295. It may have an A at the end, can't remember.
bh1992 is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Based on what I am reading, I am wondering if I am better off just leaving in my factory H20 pump and just changing the belt and tensioners....
Leon22 is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 06:07 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
98IntrepidTan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,254
Feedback: 0 / 0%
                     
There's only 15 minutes (5, if you're fast) extra work to get the water pump done while you're in there. Fully double the work if you have go back in a second time to replace the water pump.

Do you know if the water pump has EVER been changed? How long miles (or km) and years have you had the car?
98IntrepidTan is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 09:34 PM
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 53
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Ideally it should be replace in the same time, also if you are not that educate or doesn't have the proper tools with would be best to have it done with a service center.
rapide is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98IntrepidTan View Post
There's only 15 minutes (5, if you're fast) extra work to get the water pump done while you're in there. Fully double the work if you have go back in a second time to replace the water pump.

Do you know if the water pump has EVER been changed? How long miles (or km) and years have you had the car?
Oh I know, that is why I posted a kit including a water pump. But, with every one telling me the aftermarket and dealer water pumps are sketchy, I am just wondering if this is a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Leon22 is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 10:45 AM
Intrepid Pro
 
hrmwrm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sangudo, AB
Posts: 1,083
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
i used a goodyear kit when i did mine. just get a reputable name and hope it's good. even the best have occasional failures.
it's easiest to do it at the same time. even if it's still good at present, it's chances of failing are still more likely than new.
hrmwrm is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-04-2016, 12:18 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Virginia, U.S.
Posts: 16,108
Feedback: 4 / 83%
                     
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon22 View Post
Oh I know, that is why I posted a kit including a water pump. But, with every one telling me the aftermarket and dealer water pumps are sketchy, I am just wondering if this is a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I for one seriously get that. It's called a dilemma.

My 3.2 belt broke a year ago (5kmiles ahead of change interval) just before I was getting ready to order the parts to replace the belt, water pump, etc. In a way, it was a relief, because I was wrestling with the same question that you are with no satisfactory answer, and I ended up swapping my good, no-worries 2.7 engine from my daily driver with beat up body into that close-to-perfect car and scrapping the 3.2 engine and the 2.7 body. Problem solved.


'98 LXi - Later Concorde gages (black w/ chrome rings)/'99 LX - LHS gages (white) - HIR bulbs
peva is online now  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 10:01 PM
Intrepid Newbie
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 53
Feedback: 0 / 0%
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon22 View Post
Oh I know, that is why I posted a kit including a water pump. But, with every one telling me the aftermarket and dealer water pumps are sketchy, I am just wondering if this is a case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Well my idea about it is that its a part of the Preventive measure. It may not be broken, but hard to access once needed to be replaced.
rapide is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Intrepid Fan
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 106
Feedback: 0 / 0%
             
I ended up ordering the Gates kit from Rock Auto. Ended up being cheaper even with shipping to Canada and the exchange. Thanks for the advice guys.

I will stick with the OEM branded coolant by Recochem. They are a Canadian company with a solid reputation after doing more digging.

Last question, do you guys normally change the oil seals too? This kit does not come with them, but I am wondering if I should do too. Is it a lot of extra work?

Just need it to be a bit warmer and I will give this repair a go!
Leon22 is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 07:15 PM
Intrepid Pro
 
hrmwrm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sangudo, AB
Posts: 1,083
Feedback: 1 / 100%
                     
for the cams? crank?
usually no, unless there is an obvious need. light sweating is normal.
light oil/dirt residue around the seal is normal.
either are extra work that shouldn't be necessary. you'd need to get the cam tools to lock the cams to do the cam seals, as removing the belt pulleys necessitates re-aligning the pulleys to the cams.
the lower belt drive pulley too can be a pain to remove.
if they aren't dripping oil, leave them alone.
hrmwrm is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

Member names may only be composed of alpha-numeric characters. (A-Z and 0-9)

!!ATTENTION ADVERTISERS!! If you intend on advertising anything on this forum, whatsoever, you are required to first contact us here . Additionaly, we do NOT allow BUSINESS NAMES unless you are an Authorized Vendor. If you own a business, and want to do sales on this site via posting or private message, you will need to follow the rules. Shops, Stores, Distributors, Group Buys without being authorized will see your account terminated.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome