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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Proportioning valves

I have a 2000 LHS with ABS. When I look for the rear brake hoses, I seem to be getting two options for my car.

Option 1 - HOSE. Left/Right Rear. Brake.
04779012AD and 04779013AD

Option 2 - HOSE. Export. Brake. Left/Right. . [SDD], With Valve
04779122AA and 04779123AA

Option 1 is about double the price per hose compared to option 2. Which one is it supposed to be that I order?

Also, the parts site says they don't stock the rear steel lines anymore, they just give a 25 foot bulk roll or whatever. However, they do stock the rear lines for all 2002 and up Concorde/Intrepid under part numbers 05083038AA and 05083039AA. I thought I had read somewhere that these parts will still work on earlier models (before 2002), anyone have any information on that?

Thank you!

Last edited by Leon22; 03-08-2016 at 10:40 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 03:44 PM
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Not sure this totally settles it. See those parts from the 2000 parts pdf, below. You might go with the Value Line.

BTW - always omit any leading zeros, spaces, or dashes in the Chrysler part numbers. Not all systems, including, believe it or not, the Dealer parts data bases, recognize the numbers with leading zeros, etc.

The proportioning valves disappeared from the rear lines in '02 (were deleted from cars with ABS, were moved to where the ABS control module would be near the driver's side front wheel without ABS). Someone posted recently that they used the pre-'02 on an '02 or later car, and was able to make them fit by a little stretching out of some bends. Pretty sure that was posted in the last month - would have to search.
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File Type: jpg 2000 rear brake lines.jpg (13.5 KB, 12 views)


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Last edited by peva; 03-08-2016 at 03:52 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 04:02 PM
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Well, I had some facts wrong. He went the other way - put longer '02 lines in a '98 - so he had to exaggerate some bends to make shorter. But easier to shorten than to lengthen. If they're available...

Post no. 35 here: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthr...74#post3908674 (also see post no. 36 for photos):

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_ View Post
I ordered replacement lines for my '98 in fall 2013 and installed them the next summer. Note that the rear lines are run through a small space below the floorpan but above the rear aluminum crossmember. I've never found a removal or installation procedure in the service manual, but I'd imagine the "correct" procedure is probably to jack up the car so there's no load on the suspension and then unbolt the rear crossmember from the body. However, since my car was parked on ramps, this wasn't really an option for me. Removing the old lines wasn't a problem - just cut them and pull them out. Putting in the new lines was a challenge because there's a bend in the line behind the crossmember that definitely wasn't going to fit through that small space. I ended up carefully straightening the line, feeding it through the space above the crossmember, and then carefully re-bending it to the approximate shape it used to be. Best to take a picture of the shape, and be careful not to kink the tubing when bending it!

As far as the '98-'01 having the rear proportioning valves and the '02-'04 having them relocated to the front, I don't think that affects the steel lines. I remember when I was buying them, the parts guy at the dealer warned me that they were only listed for '02-'04 cars. I remembered reading on here that someone had used them on an older car, so I went ahead and ordered them. They screwed right into the proportioning valves and I never had a problem. It's possible that the '02-'04 lines were a couple inches longer to make up for the lack of proportioning valves, and I do seem to remember the lines being a little bit longer than necessary.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 04:22 PM
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Below are a couple of searches on ebay that I just did using all the part numbers. They may help - looks like new old stock of OEM parts from Chrysler dealers.

The 508... numbers I think are numbers that the rear lines superseded to - they were referred to in post no. 3 of that thread I linked above. Also, I can't imagine why the SDD lines would be any different form-fit-function - possibly just heavier, or stainless? Just a guess. (FWIW, here's a discussion on the different brake codes: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=98251)

Value line parts for $52 each, plus $5 to $7 to ship, in that second link.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...3AD%29&_sop=15

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...AA%29&_sacat=0


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Last edited by peva; 03-08-2016 at 04:34 PM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Problem is I am from Canada, so a lot of the US sites don't ship or charge a lot, factor in the current exchange rate and it sucks!

Anyways I seemed to be able to find everything at http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com to be able to replace all the steel lines and rubber hoses. For some reason the SDD versions of the rear hoses are so much cheaper.

Never done this before, but I have had brakes on an older car failed due to a ruptured line 3 times in my life and with a 16 year old car, I feel like it is an accident waiting to happen. I don't want to take this risk anymore.

I've replaced the exhaust from cat back and my front end steering and suspension is in excellent shape, the brake lines seem to be the last major safety issue.

Should I be changing everything front and back? Or is this overkill, I figure by doing this, the only weak points in the brakes could be the master cylinder, abs module and calipers. Is there anything else I can avoid changing to save a bit of dough? Should I just use two rolls of standard brake line and do it all myself? I struggle with this method cause it seems like a lot of extra work, although it is a lot of savings. After pricing everything out, it comes $650 CAD shipped, which seems like a lot for an older car.

Thanks for all the info Peva, fwiw, that thread has me thinking this is gonna be a crap job lol. Along with the timing belt/water pump service, I have my work cut out for me.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 06:31 PM
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You're smart to be concerned. I had one of the rear lines rupture on me last year when I had to do a moderately hard stop in traffic. Fortunately the guy in front of me saw the trouble I was having stopping, and moved up as far as he could - I stopped just a couple of feet from his rear bumper. Scary.

One other person here reported the same thing soon after it happened on mine.

Also check the 2 steel power steering lines running along the driver's side fender inside the engine compartment. Just a few months before that brake line ruptured, one of those steering lines started leaking fluid. The appearance of the power steering lines was identical to the rear brake lines - *very* heavy pitting from corrosion. I didn't know the walls of the lines were as thick as the pitting was. It's no wonder they failed.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
Also check the 2 steel power steering lines running along the driver's side fender inside the engine compartment. Just a few months before that brake line ruptured, one of those steering lines started leaking fluid. The appearance of the power steering lines was identical to the rear brake lines - *very* heavy pitting from corrosion. I didn't know the walls of the lines were as thick as the pitting was. It's no wonder they failed.
I'm going to 2nd that. My 2000 R/T which was originally a Chicago area car just had both brake lines going from the Brake Master Cylinder down along the drivers frame rail and the Power Steering lines rust out in the same area. Major Leakage!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Which P/S lines? The high pressure and the return? I have heard these are a monster to replace, I hope everything is OK there...
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 12:45 PM
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Yes - the two lines going to the rack. Yes - very crowded working quarters.

I actually cut out the worst section of the leaking p.s. line and spliced with a transmission cooler hose and fuel injection hose clamps - they apply even pressure all the way around the hose and without the screw thread slots that can damage the outer covering of the hose - see below - so you can crank down on them pretty good without damaging anything. I applied a coat of grease on the less corroded areas of the same p.s. lines to get by for a little while (car ended up getting scrapped out for unrelated reasons a few months later anyway - problem solved!).

NAPA has the fuel injection hose clamps in different sizes.



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