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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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Oil drain plug trouble

I tried to do an oil change on my 04 neon for the first time since buying it but am having difficulty in removing the oil drain plug. I tried using a socket to loosen it, instead my socket got busted and had to buy a new one. I applied wd-40 to loosen it up and it still didn't help. The plug isn't stripped or anything but it just won't loosen up. Any help appreciated guys. It uses a 13mm socket and the oil pan is made of cast aluminum I think.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 10:02 AM
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Wait a minute, you say 51,xxx miles in your sig and this is the first oil change?!?!?!?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 10:31 AM
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He probably didn't buy it new.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 11:23 AM
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Sorry, day after Xmas. Brain not running at 100% yet
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jd_fj View Post
I tried to do an oil change on my 04 neon for the first time since buying it but am having difficulty in removing the oil drain plug. I tried using a socket to loosen it, instead my socket got busted and had to buy a new one. I applied wd-40 to loosen it up and it still didn't help. The plug isn't stripped or anything but it just won't loosen up. Any help appreciated guys. It uses a 13mm socket and the oil pan is made of cast aluminum I think.
Try to loosen it with the engine at full operating temperature. If you get it loose, be sure to let it cool completely before torquing it to specs after you drain your oil, or you'll be in the same trouble next time.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Wait a minute, you say 51,xxx miles in your sig and this is the first oil change?!?!?!?
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He probably didn't buy it new.
When I bought the neon it had 51,000 miles on it now it has 53,000 and I wanted to switch it to synthetic like my other cars.

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Try to loosen it with the engine at full operating temperature. If you get it loose, be sure to let it cool completely before torquing it to specs after you drain your oil, or you'll be in the same trouble next time.
Thanks I will try it this weekend and post how it went.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 05:44 AM
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I had the same problem with mine, I caried it down to a welding shop where they heated it a bit and it became slack, could have taken it off by just screwing it with my hands.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 05:50 AM
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Just to make sure: DO NOT use an adjustable crescent wrench!!

If it gets to the point that you round it off, they do make things to get it out. I know that Craftsman has rounded nut pullers. Or you can weld a nut to the plug and turn it that way.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 05:40 PM
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Try some impact action. On a warm engine as said. Get a good fitting socket like a name brand 6 point or a quality wrench. Hold the handle and hit the end of it with a hammer. The shock will usually break the bond on stubborn fasteners.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 06:15 PM
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As Archimedes said..."Give me a lever long enough and I can move the world." Insert socket wrench into socket, place assembly on oil drain plug at an angle that will allow you to slip a "cheater bar" over the handle of the ratchet, thus lengthening the ratchet. Apply force to loosen the plug. Once the plug is loose, remove the bar and take the plug off as usual.


My personal cheater bar is a length of hollow steel pipe about three feet long, which is long enough to be useful yet short enough to fit under the car.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 08:40 PM
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FYI WD-40 doesn't break things loose. Olive Oil will do as good a job as WD-40....you need a good penetrating oil product like PB Blaster.



You should invest in a Fumoto Valve IMO
Engin Oil Drain Valve - Fumoto Engineering

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 09:35 PM
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dude if a 2 foot cheater's bar doesn't do the trick on a drain plug, there's something seriously wrong. Do what the previous suggestion said:
1. apply some good penetrating oil - PB blaster is okay, I've had good luck with something called 3-in-1 penetrating oil (made by the same company that makes WD40 i think).
2. warm up the car (you should do this anyways).
3. use a cheater's bar (2 foot should be plenty). Feel what you are doing. If something doesn't feel right, stop! Last thing you want is a broken drain plug.

You know what, now that I think about this, forget this. Take the car to a dealer or somewhere reliable to get the oil changed. They will open the plug for you and you get an oil change. Switch to synthetic can be done later. If they screw up, it's at least partially on them. Buy a new drain plug and have them install this and discard the old one if the old one doesn't look right.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 10:09 PM
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always avoid hitting a wrench with a hammer at all costs...that's how thing's get broken. it shouldn't need to be lubed too much since the threads are already covered in oil. usually just hooking two box wrenches together gives you more than enough torque to get one off, but i suppose if you're underneath and don't have a lot of room you could need more. and if you've stripped the plug at all and you take it to an oil change place they'll almost definitely take note of it before they touch it to absolve any responsibility on their part.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your advice guys I managed to loosen the drain plug using the cheater bar and having the car at operating temperature. I checked to plug for threading and didn't see anything wrong with it, I guess whoever did the oil change previously over torqued it.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jd_fj View Post
Thanks for all your advice guys I managed to loosen the drain plug using the cheater bar and having the car at operating temperature. I checked to plug for threading and didn't see anything wrong with it, I guess whoever did the oil change previously over torqued it.
Glad you got it working!!!

You should hit whoever torqued the oil plug that tightly over the head with that 2 foot long cheater wrench. I bet that pan is aluminum, so whoever did that should never touch a car again.
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