Heater Blower Trouble - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Heater Blower Trouble

So the other day, the heater blower started only working on the High setting; figure it's got to be a blown resistor. ('99 Trep, 116k) So I've replaced the heater resistor twice, and both times, within days, it re-pops to only work on the High setting. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm trying to figure out what next to look at, as I can't keep on replacing resistors. Could the fan motor itself be causing this? To anyone who also have had this happen to them, what else did you replace to get your blower working correctly again? I'm out of ideas as to what else to pursue...

Last edited by mattmik91; 01-01-2009 at 09:06 PM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 09:13 PM
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I remember hearing something about this. There is a fuse built in somewhere that fails and keeps frying the resistor.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 09:20 PM
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i got the same problem but never pay atention to this mine also only work on the high setting but where is that the heater resistor is located?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 10:31 PM
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Fan motor is probably in need of replacement, it is probably drawing too much amperage and frying the resistor fuses. The airflow to the resistor might also be blocked by something inside the heater box that shouldnt be there causing it to overheat and blow. Either that or there is a bad connection in the wiring, the plug at the resistor is melted or corroded.

The blower is in the passenger foot well on the bottom side of the dash. The resistor is right next to it.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 12:17 AM
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I agree with 32Intrepid you have a bad motor or bad connections to the motor. The current draw is to high and burning out the resistor.
Has the motor ever made a squeal or noise?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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constantine86 - the resistor is right over the foot air duct on the passenger side. pull the duct down, and you will see the two plugs & two screws to the left of the blower itself. takes 10 mins. theres a How-To thread for that with pictures that can help ya. the resistor is like $25
32intrepid/dodgerunner - yeah, I think I'm going to try the motor next. Sounds like this is a fairly common problem with these cars, so I can't imagine it being too big of a deal to replace. it hasn't made any noises, but it would be the next logical thing to look into.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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so just as an update: i' tried replacing just the resistor, and it worked for about two weeks before taking a kaput again. so i replaced the resistor with the blower motor, and it seems to be working again, but it's only been a few days. I must say, replacing the blower motor, more specifically, getting to the blower motor was quite a chore.
A few tips, take out the glove box, very helpful. When doing that, there are two hidden screws on the left side of the box, which would be under the panel next to your left leg, covering the council. Also, have some very small hands, the screw in the very back for the blower cover is a pain to get to. The floor slopes up right there, so pull back the carpeting, gets you and extra 1/4 inch or so to work with. When taking out the cover, make sure you get it down far enough to get the back under a screw "peg", otherwise you'll just rip a section off the cover, which is obviously no good. When you buy the motor, you can buy it w/o the fan wheel. If you do this, make sure 1. the wires coming out the motor dont interfere with its movement, and 2. make sure you wire it correctly. The directions I had said "if the fan blades go this way, wire positive to positive. If they go this way, go positive to negative", but it was given without any direction as to which way to look at the wheel, so you kinda have to figure it out once it's back in the car. Also, when taking off the cover intially, cut the green and black wires close to the grommet, on the "inside" side, but not too close, as this is where you need to reconnect the motor; but you need to be able to have enough slack to put things together. One thing to check before you do the motor, is 1. check the fuse and 2. check the resistor and 3. check the amperage through the motor before tearing it all apart...
So hopefully, after all this, it works longer than two weeks again. I'll update this and let you all know...

Last edited by mattmik91; 01-28-2009 at 10:52 AM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 09:23 PM
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Im taking on this project myself. Had to go buy a 1/4" drive and socket set, a swivel adaptor which I didnt need...I pulled back the carpet and cut away the rubber insulation and that gave me much more room to get the socket in there with no adaptors or anything. This is only a test, I found the three screws and determined how to get to them...now I will go to a scrap yard and test my luck on a Concord and get the motor and control module thats 308 bucks brand new.
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