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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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Angry Questions

Please be patient.
1. changed the shift solenoid pack.
2. randomly goes into limp mode for about a mile then all is good. sometimes it will throw trans code, but goes away the next day. help.

Next issue:
i have tried to set the timing up but i cant keep the passenger side gear to stay. sometimes im on the left mark, sometimes the right. cannot get it to stay in middle. any ideas?

i have also changed the input and output sensors (trans) and i also recently changed the cam and crank position sensors. first thing in the morning it cranks for a while then starts. each start after that during the day is fine. i am at my wits end. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 02:56 AM
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Judging by your wording I am assuming you have a 3.2 or 3.5l engine. Please fill us in with a little more detail there (year, make, model, engine size). If I am right with that assumption, with the crank timing mark and the drivers side timing marks aligned perfectly, the passenger side timing mark is usually pointing towards the dot closer to the center of the engine (I have only seen one case in which it ended up perfectly centered between the dots).

When changing cam and crank sensors, did you buy aftermarket from Napa, Oreilly's, etc? or did you buy OEM ones from a dealer?

Do you know what the code was for the transmission (anytime the transmission throws a code, it will pop up with a generic P0700 code, but there is/are more specific code(s) that can be read with most scan tools).
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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I have a 2003 concorde limited with the 3.5l vin g motor. The trans code was 0700 and the code for the shift solenoid pack. i forgot the number exactly. I have seen cam lock tools available online. Why would the mfg tell you to align the marks if it's ok to be off by one tooth. It feels like it doesnt have the "pep" it had before. I guess i'm enough of a rainman to want it exactly as the repair manual says. As far as the parts, shift pack was from dealer others were from oreillys. BWD i think.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 10:50 AM
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When aligning the passenger side cam you want it to point in towards the inner dot. As you install the tensioner the timing mark may move a little bit back towards the middle of the dots depending on how much slack you have in the belt. But if you start out with it pointing towards the outer dot then you are guaranteed to be off. It may be part of the difference between aftermarket timing belts and oem (I've been using Gates, which is the same company that makes the oem ones). The cam lock tools aren't really necescary unless you are replacing the cams, cam seals, or cam sprockets.

As far as the trans code, that underlying code is the code that is needed for better diagnosis. The P0700 doesn't really say anything.

I'm hoping that you have just learned the hard way on the aftermarket sensors. Cam and crank sensors especially, they typically are junk right out of the box or don't work for very long. Not sure if there are any aftermarket transmission speed sensors that are ok but I doubt it since they are similar in design.

When it does fire up after a long crank, does it fire up smoothly like it should or is it rough at first and then smooth out?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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After the long crank, it it fires smoothly and idles nice. thats whats so confusing. its almost like it has no spark first thing in the morning. as far as the timing belt, i lined all the msrks up. i even used wedges and or clothes pin s to hold the belt while i put it on. (saw it on youtube). ive done this with my mechanic friend and he is baffled. after doing the two rotation test, the passenger side is lined up with the inner dot or outer dot. mind you this is a brand new belt. i even went and exchanged it thinking is was a bad belt. i recall the crank sensor talks to the comp, the comp talks to the cam sensor then it fires if everything jives. correct? so should i get dealer sensors or another brand?

p.s. thanks by the way for your help. this is getting to be very frustrating. i live in phoenix. working on the car in 115 degree weather sucks.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 07:46 PM
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The dealer is pretty much the only place to go for sensors for these cars. You can typically get the part number and then find an oem parts dealer online or on ebay that will sell the item at a cheaper price than the local dealer.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by spartanwarrior View Post
After the long crank, it it fires smoothly and idles nice. thats whats so confusing. its almost like it has no spark first thing in the morning. as far as the timing belt, i lined all the msrks up. i even used wedges and or clothes pin s to hold the belt while i put it on. (saw it on youtube). ive done this with my mechanic friend and he is baffled. after doing the two rotation test, the passenger side is lined up with the inner dot or outer dot. mind you this is a brand new belt. i even went and exchanged it thinking is was a bad belt. i recall the crank sensor talks to the comp, the comp talks to the cam sensor then it fires if everything jives. correct? so should i get dealer sensors or another brand?

p.s. thanks by the way for your help. this is getting to be very frustrating. i live in phoenix. working on the car in 115 degree weather sucks.
If the timing is on, the crank sensor might be bad or the connector / wires might have an issue.

The crank sensor handles engine RPM up to ??? RPM, then the cam sensor takes over. (someone add the correct RPM)

Have you done a fuel pressure test?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 02:35 AM
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2500 rpm is where the cam sensor takes over, but the computer still has to see both signals being in sync before allowing the engine to run. If the fuel pressure had leaked off then I would expect it to start rough and eventually smooth out. That's why I'm leaning towards the cam and crank sensors, both are suspect since they are aftermarket.
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