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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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help, coil pack

OK so my car is a 94 intrepid. 160k miles strong. About a month ago, I was driving to work, and my car shut off while I was driving. I pulled it off the road, tried to start it. It wouldnt do anything. I waited about 5 minutes, tried again, bam, it fired up. It was like wtf, but I drove it for 2 weeks, and it happend again, on the way to work. It wouldnt crank again, had to wait about 20 min this time. And anyway, its happening alot more often now. And the waiting period is even longer now, sometimes a whole day. SO i had a mechanic friend look at it. He said the coil pack wasnt being grounded. So he made a wire that went from the black wire (going into the coil pack) to the battery, and it fired up right away. He would place it on there to just start the car. Anyhow. It worked a few times, but now, it doesnt work. What do you think it could be? Oh, and obviously no spark when its not cranking
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 12:13 AM
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Sounds like the Crank Sensor. It's a common problem with the Treps. But first have you checked for any stored codes? If not, check them out and report back.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (MIL)


Cycle the ignition key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON within 5 seconds.
Count the number of times the MIL (check engine light) on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate the individual two digit trouble code.
An example of a flashed DTC is as follows:

Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, and then flashes 6 more times. This indicates a DTC code of 46.
Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, then flashes 5 more times. This indicates a DTC code of 55. A DTC of 55 will always be the last code to be displayed. This indicates the end of all stored codes.


Also here: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/t9477/


2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee my current DD

1995 3.5L Intrepid, Sold in 2010
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 12:16 AM
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Also here some tests that you can run too:

FAILURE-TO-START TEST


See Figure 1

This no-start test checks the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Refer to the ignition coil tests before commencing with this test, much time may be saved if the problem lies within the coil.

The PCM supplies 8.0 volts to the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor through one circuit. If the 8.0 volt supply circuit shorts to ground, neither sensor will produce a signal (output voltage to the PCM).

When the ignition key is turned and left in the ON position, the PCM automatically energizes the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay. However, the PCM de-energizes the relay within one second because it has not received a crankshaft position sensor signal indicating engine rotation.

During cranking, the ASD relay will not energize until the PCM receives a crankshaft signal. Secondly, the ASD relay remains energized only if the PCM senses a camshaft position sensor signal immediately after detecting the crankshaft position sensor signal.

Check battery voltage with a voltmeter. Make sure to always attach the positive voltmeter wire to the positive (+) terminal of the component being checked. Do the same with the negative - wire also. Voltage for the battery should be approximately 12.66 volts or higher to perform the failure-to-start test.
Unplug the harness connector from the coil pack.
Connect a test light (or voltmeter) to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground. The wire for the B+ terminal is dark green with a orange tracer.


Fig. 1: Attach the 12 volt test light to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground

Turn the ignition key to the ON position. The test light should flash on and then off. DO NOT turn the key to the OFF position, leave it in the ON position.
If the test light flashes momentarily, the PCM grounded the ASD relay. Proceed to Step 5.
If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is either the relay itself or one of the relay circuits. Test the circuits for a ground or open circuit.
Crank the engine. If the key was placed in the OFF position after Step 4, turn the ignition to the ON position before cranking the engine. Wait for the test light to flash once, then crank the engine.
If the test light momentarily flashes during cranking, the PCM is not receiving a camshaft position sensor signal. Test the camshaft position sensor circuits for a ground or open circuit.
If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the camshaft position sensor connector. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Turn the key to the ON position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. If the test light momentarily flashes, the camshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced with a new one. If the light did not flash, the cause of the no-start is in either the crankshaft position sensor/camshaft position sensor 8.0 volt supply circuit, or the crankshaft position sensor 5 volt output or ground circuits. Have the crankshaft position sensor checked, after checking the sensor circuits for a ground or open circuit.


Coil Test

See Figures 2, 3 and 4


Fig. 2: The ignition coil connection terminal descriptions

Fig. 3: Check the primary resistance at the electrical connection and the secondary resistance across the coil towers

Fig. 4: Ignition coil terminal identification
Coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6 for the 3.3L and 3.5L engines. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.

Unplug the ignition cables from the coil terminals and the spark plugs. Make certain to label them before removal. Measure the resistance of the cables. Resistance must be between 3,000-12,000 ohms per ft. (30.5 cm) of cable. Replace any cable not within tolerance.
Unplug the electrical wiring harness connector from the coil pack.
Measure the primary resistance of each coil. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the cylinders in question. Resistance on the primary side of each coil should be 0.45-0.65 ohms at 21-27C (70-80F). A coil not allowed to cool down, could result in inaccurate measurement results. Replace the coil with a new one if the resistance is not within tolerance.
Remove the ignition cables from the secondary towers of the coil. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the towers of each individual coil. Resistance for these engines depends on which manufacturer made the coil being tested. If the coil was manufactured by Diamond, the resistance should be 7000-15,800 ohms; if the coil was made by Toyodenso, the resistance should be 7000-15,800 ohms. If the coils' resistance are not within specifications, the coil must be replaced.


2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee my current DD

1995 3.5L Intrepid, Sold in 2010

Last edited by Strongt; 03-03-2009 at 12:18 AM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-03-2009, 12:20 AM
1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!

 
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Crank or cam sensors for sure... HOWEVER, when mine failed, they did NOT trip codes...
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