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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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So problem already help me out here.

So i just introduced myself a few nights ago and im already having a problem here. I think i may know what it is already. After you run the car a bit if you shut it off and then go to start it 10-15minutes later it does that start sputter and die crap. If you feed the beast a little gas and try a few more times it will get up run rough for a minute and then just smooth out and be fine...of course you can just shut it off and start it right back up. I had this problem happen to me once right after i bought the car brought it up to my mechanic they couldnt pull any codes and thought i was on crack . Anyway i looked it up and I see dan posted a few times about a Heat soak problem with the 98's and an update available for them. I think this maybe the problem. on the post he states something about the 2.7l thermostat and 2.7l heater hose modifications. What exactly are those and what exactly should i be telling my mechanic to get this fixed/diagnosed? Im guessing since its a computer thing if i kept that computer in during a swap my next engine would have this problem too? the only thing i noticed is that the temp gauge gets JUST above 1/2 and the rad. fans kick on...this is abnormal compared to how the car was when i went back to college a few months ago...it barely ever got above that quarter mark and i never remember hearing the fans being so loud....but just seeing what you guys think.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jjohn320
Anyway i looked it up and I see dan posted a few times about a Heat soak problem with the 98's and an update available for them.
This is what Im thinking as well. Cured this problem on my 98. It happened even after the 3.2 engine swap. There is a fuel pump check as well in the same TSB, that can cause this issue.

There is usually not any other issues related to this, such as your temp gauge. I'd check the water pump weep hole, and check for leaks elsewhere. The loud fans may be the bearings in the fan motor, or they are running on high speed, would have to hear it myself to determine.

Dealer will have to do the reflash, unless your mechanic has access to a DRB III, and the new software.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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yea Parents had been driving the car. I had originally brought it in for this a couple weeks afer i bought the car...they said they werent getting any codes off of it and that of course, naturally, they couldnt get it to act up at all. The timing chain and water pump were done a month ago by this same mechanic, he replaced the thermostat as well and then they ended up having to flush the coolant a couple times (they said there was brown gunk it it) previous owner,another mechanic from another local shop, said it was radiator fix leak...makes sense i know most of those are pretty thick brown stuff. Im still slightly worried about that temp gauge and rad fans...never had that problem before and from reading some of threads it doesnt seem normal.

My mechanic usually works with dealerships he will probably end up bringing it to one next week, closest one from my hometown is a good 45minutes away.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-26-2009, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so still havent figured out what to do at this point. My mechanic thinks that doing the swap that we were previously going to do would be a good idea, the idea is that it would be cheaper in the long run, but he is unsure of what we should do with the 2.7 computer, he wants to change it with the 3.2 comp. like you would with most engine swaps but that manual (again thanks daytrepper) says that the 2.7 comp works fine with swap. What are the advantages of keeping the 2.7s computer and whats the disadvantages of replacing it with the 3.2 comp.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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This is what Im thinking as well. Cured this problem on my 98. It happened even after the 3.2 engine swap. There is a fuel pump check as well in the same TSB, that can cause this issue.

There is usually not any other issues related to this, such as your temp gauge. I'd check the water pump weep hole, and check for leaks elsewhere. The loud fans may be the bearings in the fan motor, or they are running on high speed, would have to hear it myself to determine.

Dealer will have to do the reflash, unless your mechanic has access to a DRB III, and the new software.

Any thoughts Dan? I've already tagged you as the genious in this category lol. I have seen some of your old threads stating that there could be problems with Sentry Key and some security issues. What are the benefits of keeping the 2.7 and whats is there a way to bypass some of the 3.2comp problems that can arise...and not just putting black tape over a light such as stated in one of the other threads...
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jjohn320 View Post
Ok so still havent figured out what to do at this point. My mechanic thinks that doing the swap that we were previously going to do would be a good idea, the idea is that it would be cheaper in the long run, but he is unsure of what we should do with the 2.7 computer, he wants to change it with the 3.2 comp. like you would with most engine swaps but that manual (again thanks daytrepper) says that the 2.7 comp works fine with swap. What are the advantages of keeping the 2.7s computer and whats the disadvantages of replacing it with the 3.2 comp.
There has been lots of talk on the subject, but no advantages of replacing the 2.7 computer with the 3.2 computer have been proven to date. From my research there are none. It takes about 100 miles for the 2.7 computer to adapt to the larger engine, so the fuel trims may be off for that time. I have ran 100's of these on the 2.7 computers, and they run flawlessly.

One potential difference (not on all cars) is the SRV and MTV valves on the intake plenum of the 3.2. They are for extra torque/power under hard acceleration. Most of the time they work with the 2.7 computer, this can be verified with a scan tool. Sometimes the wiring is not there in the car, and that has to be added. Not a critical thing, not needed for the engine to run properly.

If you do decide to change the PCM, you have to have a DRB III or similar scan tool that is able to enter the security pin (available thru the dealer from the vin number off of your car) into the new pcm so that it will start and run.


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Last edited by Daytrepper; 04-28-2009 at 02:17 AM.
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