Oil Light (Wire/Vent Installation Help) - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-10-2009, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oil Light (Wire/Vent Installation Help)

Hello fellow Intrepid-ites!

I have a 1999 Intrepid with a 2.7 and 111,000 miles. A few months ago my oil light started to flickr on at stop lights, etc. A couple days later after driving about 150 miles I parked the car and turned it off. When I turned it back on again, the whole engine started shaking and the RPM gauge kept going up and down- I shut it off and tried again, same thing. The car did manage to drive at about 10 mph, and then it went back to normal (and stopped shaking) after a mile or so. It hasn't happened this badly since but my oil light still flickered on at stoplights and once in a while I get a rough idle at startup.

So after reading all the topics on this subject I got my pressure switch/sender replaced yesterday. However I got an oil change today and now the oil light stays on constant whenever the engine goes underneath 1000 RPM. I think I'll get the 5017800AA Wire/Vent thing and see if that helps after installing it- I was curious if there's any way I can make this part myself? Based on what I've heard it's 18 AWG wire attached to...what?

Also, how about installing the wire itself? I'm in no way a mechanic but is it relatively easy to do? I didn't see any diagrams for the TSB but if anyone has one I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks,

Chris
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 05:01 PM
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when is the last time you changed your spark plugs?
pull one of the plugs you can get to without pulling the intake manifold and see what it looks like
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 08:56 PM
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did you get a mopar oil sending unit or an after market?
a vent wire isn't going to help if the sending unit is already bvad. After market sending units are know to be bad right out of the box.
One thing I have to say is that the flickering could be completely unrelated to the problems you are having.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 09:00 PM
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i'm not very familier with the 2.7l does it have an iac valve, if it does try cleaning it
JDNET is right your problem is probably not related to oil if your rpm drops too low, the oil pressure light will come on, so I would think more along the lines of plugs, or vacum leak, or some thing like that

Last edited by jfree3; 07-12-2009 at 09:03 PM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 09:03 PM
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The oil sending unit isn't going to make the engine shake and run like crap. You have other bigger problems I am guessing.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 09:07 PM
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The oil sending unit isn't going to make the engine shake and run like crap. You have other bigger problems I am guessing.
knock knock?
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the responses guys. I want to say I had my spark plugs changed around 50,000 miles but I was a little wary of that mechanic so I'll get them checked out.

The oil sending unit I bought was an after-market from AutoZone. The original one that had been replaced was covered in oil when my mechanic pulled it out. The oil light was coming on months before I got the sending unit changed though.

Might I ask, what is the "normal" RPM for an Intrepid in idle? My car tends to average about 750 RPM.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Schnauf View Post
Thanks for the responses guys. I want to say I had my spark plugs changed around 50,000 miles but I was a little wary of that mechanic so I'll get them checked out.

The oil sending unit I bought was an after-market from AutoZone. The original one that had been replaced was covered in oil when my mechanic pulled it out. The oil light was coming on months before I got the sending unit changed though.

Might I ask, what is the "normal" RPM for an Intrepid in idle? My car tends to average about 750 RPM.
Not sure, but if your idle seems too high, or goes up and down you might have a vacum leak
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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Gotcha. It varies between about 500 and 750 RPM at idle (usually closer to 500 when I'm in drive and have the brakes on, but usually 750 if I put it into neutral.)

I'm taking the car to my mechanic on Wednesday. Here's my list of things I'll ask him to check:

Oil Pressure
Spark Plugs
IAC motor
Vacuum leaks-- he should be able to tell where they are, no?
Sludge buildup (if any)

Sound good? Thanks again, this site is great!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 11:32 AM
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Gotcha. It varies between about 500 and 750 RPM at idle (usually closer to 500 when I'm in drive and have the brakes on, but usually 750 if I put it into neutral.)

I'm taking the car to my mechanic on Wednesday. Here's my list of things I'll ask him to check:

Oil Pressure
Spark Plugs
IAC motor
Vacuum leaks-- he should be able to tell where they are, no?
Sludge buildup (if any)

Sound good? Thanks again, this site is great!
alright, well your idle sounds pretty normal, as it sould go up when your engine isn't under a load like when you shift into park, or nuetral

Yes, your mechanic should at least be able to tell you what gasket the leak is on if you have one

Let us know if any of theese things fix your problem.

Worst case scenario is you may have worn engine bearings, but with low miles and if you've been taking care of your car I doubt this is the case

good luck
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 12:02 PM
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111K? I would think your priority is to have the water pump and the timing chain replaced...........
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 12:03 PM
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With that 2.7, have you ever had the timing cover off and looked at the timing chain? If not, your chain may have gone slack. With that mileage, if the chain and water pump as not been done, I would get it done really fast.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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I can't say I've ever had the water pump or timing chain inspected, but after reading a few other threads on here it definitely looks like I should. Is it worth getting the oil pump replaced at this time too?


Can't thank all of you guys enough, you probably saved my car!
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 12:49 PM
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I can't say I've ever had the water pump or timing chain inspected, but after reading a few other threads on here it definitely looks like I should. Is it worth getting the oil pump replaced at this time too?


Can't thank all of you guys enough, you probably saved my car!
Oil pumps rarley ever go out, but if your going to a mechanic anyway see how much they want to do the job
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-14-2009, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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Something I totally forgot about:

In late March my check engine light came on every time I started the car up; I took it in to the shop where I was told it was an EGR valve error (I forget which one but I can check later). My exhaust had a lot of smoke too (it was about 30 degrees outside that week, but the exhaust smelled pretty oily and the cloud was a lot bigger than it normally is)

However the weather got warmer the next week and has stayed above 40 ever since. The check engine light doesn't come on (and hasn't since it got warmer), and my exhaust looks a lot better. Sometimes I do smell the car burning oil though. Could the EGR valve have something to do with my main problem too?
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