2.7 quits at idle - makes grinding noise intermittant - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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2.7 quits at idle - makes grinding noise intermittant

1998 Intrepid 2.7, 58,000 miles. Sometimes it runs PERFECT. Increasingly, some weird things have been happening intermittently. Starting cold: won't idle, engine starts and dies. Odometer then reads: "P 1684" then it reads "Done". BTW, I can NEVER rev the car above 3,500, whether running properly or not. The RPM starts faltering around 3,000 and bounces a bit 3,000 - 3,300. (This was not any problem since it never revs that high while driving).
Even when it starts and idles properly, there is still another intermittent problem. Strait on the highway, no issues, unless I turn on A/C, then a low growling until I shut off A/C and then it takes around 1-minute for noise to stop. Even with this problem (A/C on) engine performance is not effected, other then the normal slight power draw for compressor. But wait . . if I am on local streets and turning the steering, I can get a loud grinding (like ice cubes in a blender) which will not stop until I switch off ignition. 10-seconds later, I can restart the car with no problem, no noise. Even stranger, suppose I turn off highway and pull into a gas station. No problem, no grinding, no noise, until I turn OFF ignition. Even after it seems that the crank has stopped, belts have stopped, engine stopped, for 1-2 seconds I can get the grinding noise. 1. Key off. 2. Engine stops. 3. Then grinding.
No codes in computer. All clear.
Please can someone help me. My mechanic knows less about this than I do. Thanks.

Last edited by Izeldor; 08-29-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:52 PM
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As far as the idle problem, start with checking for simple things; dirty throttle body, dirty idle air control valve; check fuel pressure; check for vacuum leaks;

The revving issue; if you are doing this in park or neutral, they have a high rev cut out; I forget the exact RPM, but basically, it limits the no load REVs allowed on the engine in park or neutral with no load, and it will bounce and falter when you hit the limiter. This does not happen in gear.

As far as the growling noises I would check all of your accessory bearings---remove both belts, spin all pulleys, see if there is a worn out bearing; another possibility is a bad fan motor; they get pretty loud when the bearings fail in them, and the fan blade will vibrate and growl. You can spin the fan blades by hand and check by feel to see if the bearings are bad.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Sounds sensible. I would just add that due to the timing of the events, I am seriously doubtful it can be two different problems. Thus, it really can't be "dirty throttle body, dirty idle air control valve; check fuel pressure; check for vacuum leaks" because these would not produce the grinding noises involved.
Your other solutions I find considerably more likely. Something which runs off the drive belt. And your focus on a bearing sounds on target. Hopefully, a minor fix. Regards.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izeldor View Post
Thanks. Sounds sensible. I would just add that due to the timing of the events, I am seriously doubtful it can be two different problems. Thus, it really can't be "dirty throttle body, dirty idle air control valve; check fuel pressure; check for vacuum leaks" because these would not produce the grinding noises involved.
Your other solutions I find considerably more likely. Something which runs off the drive belt. And your focus on a bearing sounds on target. Hopefully, a minor fix. Regards.
Bad bearings wont cause the stalling at idle, but will cause the grinding noises; if that is what your issue is.

The other things I mentioned would most definitely cause the car to stall at idle; and yes, would be a separate problem from the grinding noise; if I understand that part of your question correctly "Starting cold: won't idle, engine starts and dies".
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-30-2018, 11:58 PM
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OP said “Strait on the highway, no issues, unless I turn on A/C, then a low growling until I shut off A/C and then it takes around 1-minute for noise to stop...Even after it seems that the crank has stopped, belts have stopped, engine stopped, for 1-2 seconds I can get the grinding noise. 1. Key off. 2. Engine stops. 3. Then grinding.”

Then Dan said “all pulleys, see if there is a worn out bearing; another possibility is a bad fan motor; they get pretty loud when the bearings fail in them, and the fan blade will vibrate and growl.”

Think about it: AC forces fans on. Also, if fans are running and you turn ignition off, it takes a couple of seconds for the fans to spin down.

I think Dan has hit the nail on the head with bad fan bearings. What else is going to be moving and making a growling noise just *after* you shut the engine off and engine has stopped rotating?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 06:08 AM
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What else is going to be moving and making a growling noise just *after* you shut the engine off and engine has stopped rotating?
The cat you ran over about a half-a-block back!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Update. It was two things but I am not sure if one caused the other. One of the two fans came loose from its spindle and is now just floating on the edge of the fan motor spindle. Now the car wont start, and at moments, won't crank[1]. When it did start, bad knocking then died and the tach did not go to 0 after engine died. It remained at 2k until I turned off the key. I will not attempt to restart. Could be catastrophic. I will have it towed to my mechanic over the weekend but he is surely no expert on Dodge 2.7 and so any further help you guys provide will be printed out and handed to him. Thanks again !!

[1] The last time I drove it the temp was slightly high. Just the width of the needle higher than usual, with the needle just south of half way.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 02:37 PM
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The last time I drove it the temp was slightly high. Just the width of the needle higher than usual, with the needle just south of half way.
Under half way should be fine. Check the coolant level just to make sure it's where it should be. Check the oil level and make sure it is not milky and check to see if it's throwing any codes.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-31-2018, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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No codes. Coolant down 1/3" after 2,000 hot summer miles. Oil not milky at all. But is getting slightly dark after 2k Miles. Smells like hydrocarbons. Not that strange but one would expect this to be twice the mileage. Thanks !
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