MAYDAY-2000 2.7 Increpid - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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MAYDAY-2000 2.7 Increpid

I was in a drive-through car wash and half through it the thermostat housing blew- looked like car was on fire. Pushed it out of the way and went and got a new one and tools. The two back bolts are not accessible due to top plenum(?). I read there is a special tool: N.m 12 - in Lbs 105 (whatever that means) to reach. Is this true? Surely you don't have to disassemble 1/4 of the engine to reach two bolts in the hot sun at a car wash. Towing is $110. and the part was $37.00. Can you'll save me one more time?

Last edited by savecash14; 05-16-2019 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Picture added
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 06:02 PM
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Garage
Plenum has to be loosened or removed to get to them.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:22 PM
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And the "Special Tool" you're talking about is a Torgue wrench reading in inch-lbs. Needed when tightening the bolts down for the plenum. You can probably temporarily just tighten the bolts by hand lightly and get them torqued later. Not tight enough and you risk an air/vacuum leak and too tight and damaging the plenum or stripping threads out.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Unbelievable

Being a novice mechanic at best, the plenum move sounds deep. I can loosen the bolts, jiggle the plenum enough to remove the 2 back bolts, replace with new housing, jiggle plenum back in place and torque. Probably doable if no gaskets or complete removal of plenum and wiring is involved. If I sound way off, please reply stop, otherwise I'm on it in the A.M. - it has to be moved. Thanks for your help! For the 3rd time!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:25 AM
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Sand and grit accumulates around the gasket interface of the plenum over time and can get into the gaskets when you loosen the screws and raise the plenum - may or may not prevent a perfect seal when tightening it back down. You will need to loosen the screws enough to raise the plenum up a little - I’m guessing 1/4 to 1/2”, maybe more, to be able to get the two housing back screws out.

The plenum gaskets are silicone and should be OK to re-use.

Ideally, you would remove the plenum and clean the grit off the lower intake and underside of the plenum to make sure it doesn’t get into the gasket area, and replace the gaskets - very inexpensive. But if you just raise it a little without removing and cleaning and without new gaskets, you might be OK.

I hate to keep adding more concern and increasing the scope of this job, but the aftermarket replacements for this part have a tendency to come apart in a year or two. If you plan to keep the car more than a year or so, it would be best to get the redesigned part from the dealer along with new outlet pipe (purchased as a single Chrysler part number). The re-designed part has the bleeder part welded into the metal pipe instead of molded into the plastic outlet housing - it eliminates the most common failure mode of the housing, and, again, the OEM housing is made to last a good bit longer than the aftermarket part of older design and generally overall inferior quality.

Search this on eBay: “(chrysler, dodge) (05017183, 5017183)”

This looks like the best price, and is the OEM part, seller has 100% rating: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-OE...YAAOSwA4Va2ufS (ignore the fact that the sketch shows the bleeder in the housing and not on the tube - the sketch is from the Chrysler parts system, and they didn’t update the sketch when they redesigned the housing and tube - and that does include the housing *and* the metal tube)
I haven’t checked retail dealer price on it lately, but probably well north of $100.

So - if you’re not going to keep it for more than a year, just raise the plenum a little and throw the aftermarket part in there, and the plenum will probably seal OK (cross fingers). But if you plan to keep the car, I’d bite the bullet and get new plenum gaskets, and get the OEM housing and pipe from eBay - total parts cost well under $100 - you just won’t have it back on the road today. If you go with aftermarket housing, chances are high that somebody will be replacing it again in 2 years or less.

IMO...


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Last edited by peva; Yesterday at 03:01 AM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Today, 07:50 PM
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Coolant needs to be Mopar or Zerex G-05 HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology). Ford sells one also. Don't use the green Dexcool shit or others.

You can get the Zerex G-05 at most auto parts stores.
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