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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Question i feel stupid for askin but...

i hate wiring things for fear of shock or blowin something up... but i just got a new set of bright ass fog lights for 9 dollars.... came wit the two lights a toggle switch and like 5 mayb 6 wires.... now how do i hook em up?
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 10:33 PM
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aftermarket kit ehh? gotta run some wiring,
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crg616 (v2) View Post
aftermarket kit ehh? gotta run some wiring,
hence the question..
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 10:52 PM
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its simple really. run wiring from the power source to your switch, now run wiring from the switch to the lights where you mount them. from there run wiring from the lights to any spot that would make a good ground. dont forget a fuse, you can get a fuse holder than you can crimp in at auto part stores, always protect your circuits. how you run the wire is pretty much up to you, dont forget, the longer the wire you use the more resistance your circuit will have.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crg616 (v2) View Post
its simple really. run wiring from the power source to your switch, now run wiring from the switch to the lights where you mount them. from there run wiring from the lights to any spot that would make a good ground. dont forget a fuse, you can get a fuse holder than you can crimp in at auto part stores, always protect your circuits. how you run the wire is pretty much up to you, dont forget, the longer the wire you use the more resistance your circuit will have.
its already got a fuse in it... but of ya look at the pic i got like 5 pieces of different ends wire
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 11:19 PM
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The most important thing is to figure out where you want the switch and the lights. Mount all three then do your wiring. No sense in running wires till you do that. 1 wire can run from the + battery terminal to the switch. Run another wire from the switch to the wire with the fuse. If the fuse wire is not attached to a light, select any light and attach fuse wire to light wire. Next, attach the other light wire to the other 2nd light's wire. The last wire from the last light should be attached to the frame or run to the - terminal on the battery.

Make sure you either zip tie loose wire or before attaching wires to cut them to length. Last thing you need is a dangling wire getting snagged on something going down the road and ripping all your work off.

Last edited by sojuro; 10-21-2010 at 11:22 PM.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-22-2010, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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The most important thing is to figure out where you want the switch and the lights. Mount all three then do your wiring. No sense in running wires till you do that. 1 wire can run from the + battery terminal to the switch. Run another wire from the switch to the wire with the fuse. If the fuse wire is not attached to a light, select any light and attach fuse wire to light wire. Next, attach the other light wire to the other 2nd light's wire. The last wire from the last light should be attached to the frame or run to the - terminal on the battery.

Make sure you either zip tie loose wire or before attaching wires to cut them to length. Last thing you need is a dangling wire getting snagged on something going down the road and ripping all your work off.
well the thing is i already got wires.. but they dont seem thick enough or log enough
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 02:53 PM
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Like I said, install the switch and mount the lights. This way you can plan out your routing of the wires. When they send you wires for the lights they send out way more then enough.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 04:55 PM
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Way WAY WAY WAY Wrong guys.

Any aftermarket lighting and or accessories that are turned on or off with a switch over a particular amount of draw (like additional lights) needs to have a Relay in the system. Running a 12v lead inside to the switch then back out is even more a horrible idea.

Second, those look like LED lights and I can almost assure you, they may look bright they will suck! LED to not put out the light Bulbs can, they just do not emit light like they do.

Third, If you want the Proper wiring diagram for fog lights and pictures, I can provide.

Just a few pictures of my TSi Foglights Install..

Relay


Fog lamp ends


In my setup, if the wire that goes to the switch for any reason ever gets grounded, the worse that will happen is the lights will stay on. No burnt wires, no blown fuses.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 05:24 PM
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Have no idea why you would put a relay into the line, there is no reason for it. I had no issues when I installed after market lights in the trep and that's how I did it.

You do know a relay is an electronic switch right?
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 05:26 PM
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And by your setup the worse that can happen is your batter gets killed.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 05:42 PM
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Respectfully I am not sure I agree with you one that one. I mean why? Your just using 1 electronic circuit to control another. With a good switch you shouldn't not have a draw problem. Me personally, I'd rather have a blown fuse than have lights get stuck on
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 07:48 PM
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I'm with Devan on this. The best way to supply power to aftermarket lights(that have a current draw of over an amp) is via a relay. That's how the stock fog lights are run on the LH, both 1st and 2nd gen. The relay contacts are designed to handle the power. The switch would just be a low current circuit to turn on the relay coil. You would still put a fuse in the circuit of the relay contacts and fog lights.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojuro View Post
And by your setup the worse that can happen is your batter gets killed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crg616 (v2) View Post
Respectfully I am not sure I agree with you one that one. I mean why? Your just using 1 electronic circuit to control another. With a good switch you shouldn't not have a draw problem. Me personally, I'd rather have a blown fuse than have lights get stuck on
A. It is the correct way of running it. If he was driving a riced civic I could care less. But being I am one to do things the correct, professional way, I choose using a relay. Believe it or not a fuse will not just blow instantly, alot of damage can be done before it will blow. (wire can let, cross other wires) (unless it is a low amp fuse like 10 and below)

B. I pay attention to my fog lamps and they are only on at night, so I know when they are off or on. On top of that I have a Red Top Optima, so battery is not an issue for me. I run my wire very clean and proper so the chances of them getting cut or grounding, highly unlikely.


And If a person does not want to run a relay but, would rather run a 12v + lead from the battery, to the inside, back to the outside is just doubling the risk, even with a fuse. At least using the ground side of the circuit with the switch will end up with the same scenario of the fog lights staying on.


And, for what it is worth, Considering I have a 32 inch LCD tv, I fixed replacing a diode on (soldering!),a PS3 I fixed, (all for less than 200 bucks total tv and PS3), and I have done many other related electrical projects, I am sure it can be taken for granted that I know, what a relay is, and does.


Last edited by EagleESI; 10-23-2010 at 08:44 PM.
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 11:21 PM
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I know fuses don't blow instantly but I also know to use a switch equal to or greater then the current being drawn. If for some reason your wires chafe and short then it's due to poor running.

I ran all my wiring along channels and in wire loom and used grommets when it went through the firewall. If something went wrong it would only be with the battery and if that's the case there would be bigger issues to deal with.
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