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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2003, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Getting codes, whats the next plan of action?

Okay I have a 94 LHS and I am slowly trying to get it back to good shape. I have replaced a bunch of little stuff and now I am looking at some of the big things.

I did the key on/off/on/off/on sequence and got 2 codes, a 32 and a 33.

The code 32 is apparently an egr problem but the engine light only comes on once in a great while (usually after driving for about 1 hour) so I am going to wait until my mileage and drivablity seems to suffer more then I will replace the egr assy (from what I hear, its about 120 bux or so).

The code 33 concerns me though. What exactly does that code mean? The description in the help file means: "open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay circuit."

Now I have a major a/c issue, when I turn it on, after about 30 to 50 seconds, the compressor then squeals and seizes up. I already bought a used compressor thinking that the compressor was bad, but could a bad relay be causing it to compress too much? i mean it would be a lot easier to just replace the relay than to open the whole system and replace the compressor, recevier dryer, expansion valve.

Will the compressor seizing up cause the code to throw?

Thanks
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2003, 07:07 AM
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Re: Getting codes, whats the next plan of action?

Quote:
Originally posted by bobo
Now I have a major a/c issue, when I turn it on, after about 30 to 50 seconds, the compressor then squeals and seizes up. I already bought a used compressor thinking that the compressor was bad, but could a bad relay be causing it to compress too much? i mean it would be a lot easier to just replace the relay than to open the whole system and replace the compressor, recevier dryer, expansion valve.
Yes, a relay stuck closed would allow dangerously high pressure. If you fear the relay is sticking closed, you can try swapping it with a nearby relay temporarily. If that doesn't do the trick, then it sounds like your compressor truly may be bad...

edit: a couple more things--ensure your refridgerant charge is within specs, because it looks like an incorrect charge (too high/too low) or a bad pressure transducer is also capable of throwing a code 33.

Last edited by argus; 06-25-2003 at 07:15 AM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2003, 07:27 AM
 
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Just a little FYI, should you ever need to do this: I'm sure that you've heard of the infamous intake manifold leak if you've read much on this site. Should you need to do it in the near future, that would also be a great time to do your EGR assembly. It is easy to see and reach when the manifold is off. When I finally went to replace my EGR valve, I was kicking myself for not doing it when I had the manifold off. It's not necessarily difficult, but it's a very tight fit at times.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-25-2003, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so what I am getting here is that yes, a bad relay could be causing this condtion. You mentioned to me to try changing the relay from a nearby one, what does that mean?? just grab any nearby relay and pull it out and swap it with the one for the aircondtioner??

ALso where is this relay actually located?

The r134a level was recently topped off at the dealer before the car was sold to me so I don't think that the charge is too high or too low.
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