Switching oils. - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Switching oils.

150K on the odometer, been using Dino oil.
Benifits to switching at this lat stage to full synth Mobil One?
Drawbacks?

I know it's been talked about befor but new oils have come out and things change.
Your thoughts?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:48 PM
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Go Mobil 1 if you so desire! Dammit!

The myths of synthetic destroying gaskets etc are outdated, with new gasket materials this is not an issue anymore. If you had a 1982 Diplomat with a slant six I would have a different suggestion. Synthetic is much better at handling heat, and has a better detergent to keep things clean and free.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:57 PM
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No big deal to switch. I would check it more often at first to see if it is consuming it or not. My kid had a GM that drank synthetic, but not a drop of dino....who knows
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:21 PM
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if your talking the M,, Id use Bulk oil
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:22 PM
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just kidding,,,,
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:25 PM
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the special, like to use mobile 1,, about a quart every 1200 milesand that was back when it had around 70K,,, lifters rattled also,,, a good hi mileage oil is what I would use,, (ok,, I do use Castrol hi mileage10w30)
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Last edited by Duds; 07-23-2012 at 10:44 PM.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDodge View Post
the special, like to use mobile 1,, about a quart every 1200 milesand that was back when it had around 70K,,, lifters rattled also,,, a good hi mileage oil is what I would use,, (ok,, I do use Castrol hi mileage10w30)
That is what I am afraid of. Going to stay with the Mopar filter though.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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I know there are new formulas out there too. Anyone try them?
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 10:51 PM
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I've been debating switching the special over to synthetic and its at 190k miles plus. The main reason I haven't switched is the extra cost.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 01:29 AM
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I'm moving my Special over to synthetic.

Just to be safe you might do what I'm doing (and what Cory recommended): a mix blend for 3k, then the oil change after move over to full and go however long you're comfortable with on synthetic.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 01:45 AM
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Been using synthetic in the Special since I got it @ 65k miles. Now at almost 130k. Very little if any oil loss between changes. 4500 mile interval changes. Pennzoil or Mobil 1 are the oils I use in the recommended OEM viscosity. Never had the "Startup Rattle or Tick" since I've owned it.

The Ricer R/T has been on Dino oil since I bought it over 5 years ago. Maybe put 10k miles on it total since I've owned it. (yes that's right..less than 2k miles/year!). OEM viscosity. Oil gets changed once a year whether it needs it or not!

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 05:19 AM
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run it in my lhs. threw it in at 100k miles, and i ran it in my 95 trep.
it had 200k miles on it when i got it. but i ran it in the trep more for cold starting capablity.
you want an oil to pump at -30C without necessarily being plugged in.
as long as you have no major leaks, it'll be fine as long as you have practiced good maintenance in the past.
possible issue; this is hearsay, but it may knock loose deposits from an unkempt engine, blocking passages. thruth? no actual personal experience of it. bit it sounds plausible.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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The trep has had M1 since 35K, now 143k, but I have never switched. What is the therory behind the high milage oils?
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:02 AM
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Theory is the additives help to 'swell' aging rubber seals (valve stem, crank, etc) that may be on the verge of seeping/leaking, or leaking already.

It's also usually a blended oil of dino/synth.

If you've run pure dino for the past 100K miles, switching to full synth is fine, but it's possible that after a few changes, you may develop an oil leak where there was none before, due to the cleaning nature of the full synth...

I attribute this to the leaks on both the LHS and the Trep in 2010. Once I went back to a high-mile (I like Valvoline red-jug) those gradually disappeared.

YMMV. I can only offer my own experience/opinion.
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