Fault code for "random misfire" - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Fault code for "random misfire"

Tackled the dreaded water pump replacement on the 2003 2.7 Intrepid and nothing appeared to go wrong on putting it back together. Everything lined up as far as the timing chain indicators, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket. The only thing that was not replaced was the primary tensioner because it reset pretty easy and was not showing the wear ring and it snapped back nicely when reinstalled. The timing chain didn't have any slack that I could notice that would have caused it to jump time. After starting the engine, it misses and lacks power and the codes are "random multiple misfire" and "crankshaft position" sensor. Am I looking at redoing this all over again or is there something else that is commonly missed that can be adjusted without tearing everything back out. Look forward to the discussion and thanks in advance to taking time to post!!
Greg
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:25 PM
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Sounds like a re-do.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:29 PM
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i had the same prob try replacing the primary tensioner it may look ok but thats not always the case replace it trust me this happend to me and after owning 6 intrepids with the 2.7 i know alot about them replace the primary tensioner and the only reason i have red bar thing is cause me and some members got in a argument but any ways replace the tensioner you should be fine there is no point in a redo if the timing wasnt right the eninge would have jumped and bent all the valve or fug up the bearings since the 2.7's are zero tolerance engines

Last edited by kmacas; 08-10-2012 at 11:47 PM. Reason: to add more info
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:35 PM
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i had the same prob try replacing the primery tensioner it may look ok but thats not always the case replace it trust me and the only reason i have red bar thing is cause me and some members got in a argument but any ways replace the tensioner you should be fine there is no point in a redo if the timing wasnt right the eninge would have jumped and bent all the valve as soon as it cranked since the 2.7's are zero tolerance engines
One tooth on the crank is not going to crash valves but will set the Cam Crank Alignment DTC.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:45 PM
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One tooth on the crank is not going to crash valves but will set the Cam Crank Alignment DTC.
well it wouldnt crash the valves right away
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:48 PM
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well it wouldnt crash the valves right away
Right! Two teeth and you are in the red zone, "Right away."
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 11:51 PM
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Right! Two teeth and you are in the red zone, "Right away."
yes yes you are but as for this guys prob replace the tensioner before opening every thing up
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 12:03 AM
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yes yes you are but as for this guys prob replace the tensioner before opening every thing up
How is that going to fix the DTC?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 12:16 AM
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How is that going to fix the DTC?

Last edited by kmacas; 08-11-2012 at 02:40 AM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 02:40 AM
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How is that going to fix the DTC?
asuming he got the timing right
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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uh..oh..

I'll go through the above steps and leave the re-do as the last step.

Few questions as I get intimate with the 2.7 again....

How much slack is too much in the timing chain? I noticed when all of the links were lined up properly with the marks, there was some play on the section of chain proceeding downward from the left side overhead cam before it went through the water pump sprocket. Should it be pretty snug when done? I could get it snug when I lined the marks up and rotate the right overhead cam slightly under tension but when I released the cam, it would create some slack. In hindsight, after all of that effort, I should have simply replaced all of the tensioners and chain with 120K miles. Would that have helped and eliminated this discussion?

Thanks for the input
Greg
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 02:38 PM
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I'll go through the above steps and leave the re-do as the last step.

Few questions as I get intimate with the 2.7 again....

How much slack is too much in the timing chain? I noticed when all of the links were lined up properly with the marks, there was some play on the section of chain proceeding downward from the left side overhead cam before it went through the water pump sprocket. Should it be pretty snug when done? I could get it snug when I lined the marks up and rotate the right overhead cam slightly under tension but when I released the cam, it would create some slack. In hindsight, after all of that effort, I should have simply replaced all of the tensioners and chain with 120K miles. Would that have helped and eliminated this discussion?

Thanks for the input
Greg
some slack will be expected until you start the engine and then it is supposed to tighten of course so i am almost sure its your tensioner
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 04:17 PM
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The only place there should be slack is between the right cam sprocket and the crank sprocket. All other points on the chain have stationary guides so if you had slack between the water pump and any other point, I'd be of the opinion there was an assembly issue. Did you use the colored marks on the chain for assembly? Not required, but damn helpful as seen below:

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I'm tackling the re-do and a couple of quick questions as I drain the fluids. When I initially drained the oil is had a thick whitish frothy appearance and I drained about seven or eight quarts of it which I assumed it was from the oil and antifreeze mixing. I had straight antifreeze coming out what I thought was a small freeze plug but closer inspection was a weep hole for the water pump. My question is after draining the oil the second time, I don't have any excessive amount but I do have a different "look" to the oil after running the engine for about 15 minutes. No where as frothy and white but it's a little thin and tannish. Is that just residual antifreeze from the water pump failure and it is to be expected? How often should I change the oil to "clean it up." Also, the good news is the valve piston area was spotless which was unlike many of the Intrepids I saw in the pull a part yard. Thanks again!!
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 04:46 PM
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I'm tackling the re-do and a couple of quick questions as I drain the fluids. When I initially drained the oil is had a thick whitish frothy appearance and I drained about seven or eight quarts of it which I assumed it was from the oil and antifreeze mixing. I had straight antifreeze coming out what I thought was a small freeze plug but closer inspection was a weep hole for the water pump. My question is after draining the oil the second time, I don't have any excessive amount but I do have a different "look" to the oil after running the engine for about 15 minutes. No where as frothy and white but it's a little thin and tannish. Is that just residual antifreeze from the water pump failure and it is to be expected? How often should I change the oil to "clean it up." Also, the good news is the valve piston area was spotless which was unlike many of the Intrepids I saw in the pull a part yard. Thanks again!!
just get some engine flush let it run for 5 or 10 and drain the oil then get some castrol edge and also add some lucas engine additive
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