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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Leaking green fluid

Hey all, I have done several searches, but haven't come across the answer.

While driving the other day I noticed my heater started blowing cold air, then when I went to park I noticed my fans running (they usually arent), and then a cloud of steam out from under the hood and I had fluid (green) all over the passenger side of the engine compartment, but I could not find the source. I filled the reservoir up and drove it home, the heat blew hot for a while and then went cold again right before getting home. The engine never got hot. The fluid was green, but when I went to drain the radiator I noticed it was "orange" as well as the reservoir stayed full.

I noticed when I had the light looking for the leak I saw vapors, I thought it was steam but it continued tonight while I removed component looking for the leak.
The fluid is sweet, but no real smell, and feels like water (not oily)

Is this possibly part of the air conditioning system? Kinda stumped, gotta take the radiator to the shop due to the neck (plastic) breaking while removing a hose.

Thanks for any help, this is a great forum with lots of good answers.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 11:39 PM
get off my lawn

 
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I suspect the green you see is from the ac system, I suspect you got the car used, could have dye in the system to show leaks, its the only green I know of,, get the rad fixed asap,,
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Is this possibly part of the air conditioning system?
green and NOT oily? wouldn't be from the a/c. only thing in the a/c is freon(which would dissipate in air almost instantly) and oil, which may or may not contain dye.
so, if it was from the a/c, it should be oily.
if it has a sweet taste, it's antifreeze.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:51 AM
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is there away you can try to pressure check to find visible leaks? look for splitting or dry rotting of the hoses. are they oem hoses or you got the car used & unknown on the hoses? BTY if they repaired radiator then it shouldn't have leaks if they did it right so one less item to check.
just throwing my 2 cents in
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_rich View Post
While driving the other day I noticed my heater started blowing cold air, then when I went to park I noticed my fans running (they usually arent), and then a cloud of steam out from under the hood and I had fluid (green) all over the passenger side of the engine compartment... The fluid was green...Is this possibly part of the air conditioning system?
I'll go with the guess that the green is a neon color. And with you saying steam and green on passenger side, sounds like you blew an A/C line, probably a pin hole where the metal crimp is. You can use the splatter to determine where the leak is by finding the most concentrated (solid) area; further away the smaller the splatter becomes.

Last edited by BatCaveTrep; 11-23-2012 at 09:46 AM.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 10:30 AM
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Check the passenger side of the radiator on the plastic tank portion. They are known to crack below the hose connection.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, going to take the radiator to the shop to see if they can fix that plastic neck that is broken. I do kind of suspect it might be from one of the A/C lines next to the metal clamp due to where a lot of the liquid is, but the amount and consistency is suspect. Gonna finish up the timing belt, water pump, get radiator fixed and then see how everything goes. Probably end up taking it to a shop to fix the A/C lines due to discharging and charging required.
Thanks again.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by j_rich View Post
Thanks guys, going to take the radiator to the shop to see if they can fix that plastic neck that is broken. I do kind of suspect it might be from one of the A/C lines next to the metal clamp due to where a lot of the liquid is, but the amount and consistency is suspect. Gonna finish up the timing belt, water pump, get radiator fixed and then see how everything goes. Probably end up taking it to a shop to fix the A/C lines due to discharging and charging required.
Thanks again.
You would probably be better off buying a new radiator. I can't imagine repairing the neck would hold under the pressure and break next time you pull the hose.. With the A/C lines, the system may already be discharged, due to the leak. Give the valve, where you would add freon, a little push and see if there is pressure. There probably isn't, so you would be safe to replace the lines and then go to a shop.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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hey all, thanks for the help. Ended up buying a new radiator for $135 with lifetime warranty from autozone. Got everything buttoned back up and drove it, no more leak. Got to work and when I left today had it overheat on me and boiling water spitting out of the resevoir hole in the back.

Did some searches and troubleshooting with the manual, going to replace the cap and see if that fixes it, felt the lower radiator hose and it was warm, so manual says thermostat should be open. I also replaced the old with a fail open model.

I'll let you know how it goes after replacing the cap, hopefully it fixes it.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 08:40 PM
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Did you replace the thermostat when you did the TP WP job?
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, replaced it with a new fail safe. Was pretty careful to ensure I had it in the right way, mainly focused on the little air bleeder thing at the top to ensure it was same side as the old one. Didn't focus too much on which side the more obvious "spring" was on.

After test drive with new cap, it still overheated. It takes a good bit of driving, I let it overheat normal op temp and the lower hose wasn't as warm as I think it should have been.
It is amazing how much turning the heater on/off affects the temp, I guess it is the only "radiator" that it has at that point.

Probably just going to take it to the shop, that thermostat was the hardest part of all the repairs I did this weekend, and I just don't have time to mess with it. Hopefully they won't bill too many hours for it.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:21 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.

 
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Hmm... also make sure the overflow tank doesn't look like this:



Will also cause coolant loss and overheating.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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The crack or the color?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:29 PM
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Did you fill and bleed the system properly? The crack.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 09:29 PM
That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_rich View Post
The crack or the color?
Yes! LOL

When the tank is hot, that crack you see will open up significantly.

The color is due to age and deterioration. About 180K miles for me. If you notice any kind of bulging in that location on the tank when hot, it's time to start planning a replacement (10 min job in a driveway with minimal tools, actually).

May not be your issue, but something to keep an eye on.
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