Drilling out Lugnuts & Studs - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Drilling out Lugnuts & Studs

Ok, my friend's car lug nuts are rounded. Her ex b/f used an impact wrench and rounded the stainless top. I can't get a bite on the lug nut at all.

I think Iím going to have to have to drill out the lug nut and lug and replace the stud and nut.

I've done this on my car before. I used Black & Decker Piranha drill bits. These ate right through the stud, but also burned up the bit. I have to drill through 3 studs/nuts.

Any ideas on what I should use? Any place I can get inexpensive carbide tip drill bits that will fit in a 3/8" chuck? Any better ideas? The way the lug nuts sit in the aluminum rim, I can't get anything besides the socket around the lug nut.

Thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 03:28 PM
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at the tire shop we usta hammer on the next step down air socket to the lug.. was a lot faster..

course we usta also have impact guns.. heh
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 03:47 PM
 
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Veeb's idea definitely works - we did the same thing when I worked at a tire shop. You can also try getting some vise-grips on the thing. Good luck!
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:08 PM
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was also how we got locking lugnuts off.. heh
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 04:28 PM
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If you go to your local muffler shop..then you can probably get it burned off.

-Duncan
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by RealSynthetics
If you go to your local muffler shop..then you can probably get it burned off.

-Duncan
Do I really want to do that on stock DC aluminum wheels? (She has a Sebring ES with 15" wheels that are the same design as the Intrepid aluminum wheels.) There's not much clearance around the lug nut.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 10:11 PM
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DREMEL!!! take a bit and make a groove in it that a screwdriver or something can fit into. then take a flathead screw bit and stick it into a socket wrench and give it a yank... can't hurt too much right?
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 10:15 PM
 
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Kinda weird, but I found this:

http://www.harvesting.com/combine/shop/studremoval.htm

If you don't want to go through a bunch of bits, maybe you can jsut drill in far enough to get a cheap-ass Torx or other similar hardened bit in there...

Other than that... Maybe get creative with a Dremel?

Sorry I don't have any other suggestions. Stuff like this happens plenty where I work, but they have a lot of special (read "expensive") equipment to take care of stuff like that.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 10:18 PM
 
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The bang on smaller socket idea is probably the most effective. I would definately not go near it with a torch and a dremel would take forever.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 10:18 PM
 
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I like Kenundrum's idea for creating the slot with the Dremel as well. Those little brown high-speed cutting disks are a dime a dozen, and I know from personal experience that they will go through hardened steel (although you'll prolly need 1 disc for each stud). Might try masking off the wheel around each stud to protect it from the cutting debris.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-08-2003, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hardwarz
Do I really want to do that on stock DC aluminum wheels? (She has a Sebring ES with 15" wheels that are the same design as the Intrepid aluminum wheels.) There's not much clearance around the lug nut.

Hardwarz

No, you don't. LoL I did it to mine, and I have a black burn mark on my alloys. I'm pissed too. But we tried everything else and that was my only option left. I have to sand them down and stuff now. :mad:

Oh, and believe me, its damn near impossible to use the dremmel on there without scratching your rims. The torch is always a last option...as I tried everything else.

-Duncan
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-09-2003, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RealSynthetics
No, you don't. LoL I did it to mine, and I have a black burn mark on my alloys. I'm pissed too. But we tried everything else and that was my only option left. I have to sand them down and stuff now. :mad:

Oh, and believe me, its damn near impossible to use the dremmel on there without scratching your rims. The torch is always a last option...as I tried everything else.

-Duncan
if you really get desperate you can put the car on a lift, and drill out the back of the stud and knock it out forwards lugnut and all..

*this is theory, but should be possible*

it MIGHT work, MIGHT.. haven't looked at the back end of these assmblys to see if theres room enough to get to the back of the studs..
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 10:21 AM
 
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A big cold chisel and hammer- whack the nut on the left side
(down for counterclockwise rotational force....works every time!!
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-11-2003, 03:34 PM
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I forget the name of the bit, but it's a reverse threaded tapered "tap". You start by drilling a hole in the center of the rounded aluminum jacket to get your hole (This won't be hard to do seeing as there should be nothing behind it). Then use a rather large sized "Reverse threaded tapered tap". The "tapered tap" will continue to move in as you turn it to the left, until it gets to the point where it bites into the screw or nut or whatever, at that point, continuing to turn the tapered tap will only turn the nut, which will unscrew it from the stud.

Or, after screwing a little hole in the aluminum jacket, you sould have little bits of jacket "sticking out" see if you can use a pair of vice grips to pull that little fucker off exposing the hardened nut underneath (I doublt the nut underneath is rounded)

Formerly Stock04Intrepid
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 01:14 AM
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You might try this ...http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952160000
I've "heard" they work OK ... but I don't know if they'll take all the torque needed for lugs ...
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