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post #1 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-30-2003, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Question oil sending unit and wire

Okay I know what you are thinking......Use the f**king search button......true but this is another issue.;) I called Dodge today about my oil light and all that jazz....they said basically the same thing we all have discussed in the forums for quite some time now. Sending unit or the wire. How much to R&R both I ask....about $180.00. IS that about right? He told me that in a worst case senerio it could be the oil pump. I aint the smartest guy in the world when it comes to cars, but is there an oil pump or is that there BS to make more money And since there are alot of others out there with the same problem or have had the problem, is there not a way we can get with DC or whoever to get this problem fixed VIA recall????????? Thanks
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post #2 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 02:02 AM
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A buddy of mine was recently told on his V6 Dakota that since the oil pump went on his truck, his whole engine is damaged and he needs to spend $4000 CDN or so on a new engine (+ labour)

He changed his oil every 6000-8000km instead of every 5000km, so, they're not honouring the warranty. Bastards look for any small reason to not honour a warranty.
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post #3 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 06:24 AM
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Re: oil sending unit and wire

Quote:
Originally posted by silver&gold
is there an oil pump or is that there BS to make more money
Yes there is an oil pump. Remove the oil pan, and remove the oil pump tube, and bam! There she is. $180? Well coming from the dealership.... that might be a tad bit whacky. But if you think about it with parts, and labor, that sounds right.
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post #4 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 09:24 AM
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Re: oil sending unit and wire

Quote:
Originally posted by silver&gold
Sending unit or the wire. How much to R&R both I ask....about $180.00. IS that about right?
Or you could buy the sending unit and install it yourself.


Quote:
Originally posted by silver&gold
I aint the smartest guy in the world when it comes to cars, but is there an oil pump or is that there BS to make more money
Don't sell your self short. All cars have oil pumps. If you apply logic there could be no pressurized circulation of oil with out a pump.


Quote:
Originally posted by silver&gold
Is there not a way we can get with DC or whoever to get this problem fixed VIA recall????????? Thanks
Recalls can only be ordered by the federal government. NHTSA will only order recalls on safety or emission grounds. No others.

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post #5 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 09:45 AM
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$180.00 total for oil pump replacement is a steal

$180.00 for sending unit is a rip-off, if you can change your own oil you can change the sending unit
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post #6 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 10:49 AM
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There is a TSB (NOT a recall) for this problem. It's #08-36-99 and requires modifying the wiring at the sending unit. You'll need to purchase part #5017800AA and the part runs about $18. If I remember right, they charge 0.2 hours labor to do it for you. I'd also replace the sending unit which is part #4608303AB and runs about $14. IF you're not having an oil pump problem, this should take care of the light coming on at low rpm.
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post #7 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 01:30 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by In2Deep
There is a TSB (NOT a recall) for this problem. It's #08-36-99 and requires modifying the wiring at the sending unit. You'll need to purchase part #5017800AA and the part runs about $18. If I remember right, they charge 0.2 hours labor to do it for you. I'd also replace the sending unit which is part #4608303AB and runs about $14. IF you're not having an oil pump problem, this should take care of the light coming on at low rpm.
That's good info. I need that done. I don't have a pressure gauge to check my oil pressure but since the light has been doing this for 1.5 years I think I am OK with the pump. The engine would have died by now. ;)
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post #8 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 06:59 PM
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Wow, some good info here. I've been experiencing the same deal, oil light flickering at low RPMs. I guess i'll try to replace the sending unit and the wire myself. It should be covered in the Haynes manual. I'll keep ya informed, maybe I'll post a "How to" after I'm done.
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post #9 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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:eh: yeah, as far as changing the oil in order to do this, what kind of filter do I need now for SYN oil??? What is a good part number to get, brand etc... I am more than likely gonna have Dodge do the work on it so that way if it does get all f**ked up, then they can deal with it. I am not that confident with myself working with cars...minor things sure, this tasking...now way in hell. Oil change no prob...14mm plug right? thanks for all the good info on this guys, I just wished that since there are alot of us with the same prob, that they would recall, but who am I. One minor thing while I am thinking of it, my wife tookthe '00 in for inspection 2day and asked alot of questions.....is there such a thing as parafin (spelling) added oil (wax)?????this guy told her "I was a dodge tech for many years and if your car has "wax" oil in it then it could clog the little tiny hole the oil needs to travel through...yada, yada, yada" long story there, but is there?
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post #10 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 07:42 PM
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You are getting into the minutiae of oil chemistry when you start talking about parrafins. There are BASICALLY two kinds of conventional oil basestocks. Pennsylvania grade or what I call Texas grade. One has parrafin and one is more ashless.

Here is a quote from a very informative website

****
Back to the chemistry just for a moment. Because crude comes from so many varied places, it has widely different structural characteristics. Chemists separate these characteristics into dun main groups based upon the design or structure of the carbon chains which are the base of the crude's chemistry. The two groups are paraffinic and naphthenic. Paraffinic crude oil is a waxy oil and naphthenic crude oil is asphaltic. The type that is predominantly used for today's motor oil is paraffinic. It has the qualities needed to function within the wide temperature variations that motor oil goes through.
****

From http://www.northamericanlubricants.com/technology/


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post #11 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-31-2003, 09:00 PM
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Pennzoil & Quaker State = Paraffin base
Valvoline & Castrol = Ash base

Paraffin base oils tend to attract moisture more than ash based oils. Synthetic is still your best bet.

Last edited by slowbra; 12-31-2003 at 09:02 PM.
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post #12 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-01-2004, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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all tho' to scientific for me due to the fact that I have an awsome buzz going on right now and can barely see the keys on my keyboard......thanks for all the help with all of this guys. I truely do look up to you since I have learned so much about the Intrepid. From what the guy told my wife is that Firestone uses the parrafin "wax" oil when they do an oil change. I will stick with synthetic in mine and maybe switcj in our 00 model. Again, thanks
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post #13 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 04:24 PM
 
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Oil Pressure

I'm new here... been reading posts for a couple weeks. Excellent information and I love the site.

It looks like I too will be doing the Oil Sending Unit/wiring harness change out. I want to check my oil pressure while I'm at it though. Anyone know the best way to do that? Is there a universal gauge that I can get (at Autozone, etc.) to do this?
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post #14 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 05:20 PM
 
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This is the recipt from when i had my service done...
It's for the sending unit, and labor....


Last edited by da1foyou; 01-20-2004 at 08:09 AM.
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post #15 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm...all I see is little red boxes.
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