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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Why Did My Belt Rip

for those who dont know, i have a 2000 dodge intrepid 2.7 L SE with 117k on her

ok lets see, i got these belts placed on last year in september, should still be good right?

well the other day im driving and i hear a WhOOOZZZZEEEE sounds, like air leaking or sutin, it goes away and i think NUTHING of it.

later that night, im coming home from work and i hear that sound again, this time i roll the window down(first time i was on the highway) and it sounds like some kind of electrical shortning, but it wouldent stop, just sounded like something SPARKING constantly, i make it home and pop the hood, STINKS like burnt rubber, i see my A/C belt ripped and was rubbing on the main belt causing the smell and the sounds.

well,, like i said, THESE are newer belts, why would they of riped, i asked the installer who did mine on the SIDE (wink wink), who works for a 5-star dealer(he's their only mech.) he said that the car has a problem with the pullys wobbeling and ripping, coulda been that. that hole time i was gonna tear him a new ear and he gave me a good reason so i couldent.


what YOU think, pully caused this or did the guy not install this corectly. my opinion is it was installed correctly or it would of never been able to last a year.

or........

ALi

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goliath27
for those who dont know, i have a 2000 dodge intrepid 2.7 L SE with 117k on her

ok lets see, i got these belts placed on last year in september, should still be good right?

well the other day im driving and i hear a WhOOOZZZZEEEE sounds, like air leaking or sutin, it goes away and i think NUTHING of it.

later that night, im coming home from work and i hear that sound again, this time i roll the window down(first time i was on the highway) and it sounds like some kind of electrical shortning, but it wouldent stop, just sounded like something SPARKING constantly, i make it home and pop the hood, STINKS like burnt rubber, i see my A/C belt ripped and was rubbing on the main belt causing the smell and the sounds.

well,, like i said, THESE are newer belts, why would they of riped, i asked the installer who did mine on the SIDE (wink wink), who works for a 5-star dealer(he's their only mech.) he said that the car has a problem with the pullys wobbeling and ripping, coulda been that. that hole time i was gonna tear him a new ear and he gave me a good reason so i couldent.


what YOU think, pully caused this or did the guy not install this corectly. my opinion is it was installed correctly or it would of never been able to last a year.

or........

ALi
Even the nut on the pulley has a correct tension that it's supposed to be tightened/checked. A lot of guys don't follow that but on these cars it's essential. Not saying your budding messed up - just a possible overlook ...?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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could, be, im going to replace Both belts anyway but what would the WOBBLE mean, i recal a while back someone mentioning that the sluge problem is somewat linked to the WOBBLE and the wobble will start hitting on the water pump inside , causing it to grind the pump down to cause it to leak

or something like that

if anything i guess im changing it, what do i need to know before i do this, im planing on a so-low mission

ALi
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 01:44 PM
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too much tension on the belt will cause it too...they make dial indicators that can tell you how much tension is on your belt.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 01:50 PM
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Inspect the pulleys while the belt is off. See if they have foward and backward play. Also see how hard they are to turn.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypnos
Inspect the pulleys while the belt is off. See if they have foward and backward play. Also see how hard they are to turn.
That's what the tension on the pulley nut is for (at least in theory). And I'm not talking about the belt tensioner ...
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-27-2004, 10:22 PM
 
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cleveland is getting some shitty weather right now... we got rain then it got to like 65 then it snows the next day. could cold and heat have a prob with this... also a bad conpressor could mess that ac belt to right ?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peppa Boy
cleveland is getting some shitty weather right now... we got rain then it got to like 65 then it snows the next day. could cold and heat have a prob with this... also a bad conpressor could mess that ac belt to right ?
When the A/C clutch in the '96 went it took the belt with it ...
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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well i have not touched teh A/C since june(air leak) and i wouldent know what too look for when it comes to inspecting the pully wheel.

when i spin teh wheel, do i feel it spin for a while or woul dit just give a couple of turns and stop? what i mean is is their a feel of force acting against me when i spin it, or is it a free spin like a fan?

ALi
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goliath27
well i have not touched teh A/C since june(air leak) and i wouldent know what too look for when it comes to inspecting the pully wheel.

when i spin teh wheel, do i feel it spin for a while or woul dit just give a couple of turns and stop? what i mean is is their a feel of force acting against me when i spin it, or is it a free spin like a fan?

ALi
Sorry, Ali - I just realized the 2.7 engine is different ...

The 2002 FSM ...

INSTALLATION
AIR CONDITIONING BELT - NEW

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE A/C BELT TENSIONER LOCKING BOLT WITHOUT FIRST HOLDING THE TENSIONER WITH A 1/2” DRIVE BREAKER BAR, AS
PERSONAL INJURY COULD RESULT.
NOTE: Verify that torsion spring position is in the new belt position before installing a NEW belt (Fig. 4). If torsion spring is not in the new belt position,
follow steps 1–7 to change the tensioner spring from the USED belt position to the NEW belt position.
{NOTE: The "new" belt position is the lower notch and the "used" position is the upper notch}
(1) Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square opening on the tensioner. Hold counterclockwise pressure on tensioner while removing the locking bolt
(Fig. 2).
(2) Carefully release spring load of the torsion spring on the tensioner.
(3) Remove pivot bolt, tensioner, and spring from front timing cover.
(4) Insert spring arm into the NEW belt position on the tensioner (Fig. 4).
(5) Install torsion spring, tensioner, and pivot bolt.
(6) Install pivot bolt. Tighten only finger tight, at this time.
(7) Using a 1/2” drive breaker bar, apply counterclockwise pressure until locking bolt can be installed.
(8) Install the NEW belt by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise until the NEW belt can be installed on pulleys. See (Fig. 5) for belt routing.
(9) Release tensioner and remove breaker bar. Belt is automatically adjusted with the tensioner’s torsion spring.
(10) Tighten tensioner locking bolt and pivot bolt to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).

AIR CONDITIONING BELT - USED
NOTE: A “used belt” is considered having more than 500 miles of service use.
NOTE: Perform steps 1–7 to change the tensioner spring from the NEW belt position, to the USED belt position.
(1) Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square opening on tensioner. Hold counterclockwise pressure on tensioner, while removing tensioner locking bolt
(Fig. 2).
(2) Carefully release the tension of spring on tensioner.
(3) Remove pivot bolt, tensioner, and spring from front cover.
(4) Insert spring into the USED belt position on tensioner bracket (Fig. 4).
(5) Install spring, tensioner bracket, and pivot bolt.
(6) Install pivot bolt. Tighten only finger tight, at this time.
(7) Using a 1/2” drive breaker bar, apply counterclockwise pressure until locking bolt can be installed.
(8) Install the USED belt by rotating tensioner counterclockwise until belt can be installed on pulleys.
(9) Release tensioner and remove breaker bar. Belt is automatically adjusted with the tensioner’s torsion spring.
(10) Tighten tensioner locking bolt and pivot bolt to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-29-2004, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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thank you D76G12, i appereciate that, but the more i look into it the more i wanna make sure this can be profecionally done, i DONT want to take it back to the last guy who did it but he does have THE MOST experiance with these motors, only this time im gonna keep my eye on what he does(last time he took it, brought it back but never geave me my old belts.)

damn, how long do ya'll think i can go without ripping the last belt?

that is waht worries me now

ALi
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