Switching from Synthetic to Dino. - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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Switching from Synthetic to Dino.

I will be switching from a class 3 synthetic to regular dino oil. It makes sense because I change the oil every 3,000 miles anyways, I ONLY do city driving, a 20 mile trip max maybe every two weeks.

Will any harm be done if I just completely switch to dino oil?
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:28 PM
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As long as you buy good quality oil and filter and keep changing it at 3k, your motor won’t know the difference.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:28 PM
 
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I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure once you go synthetic you can't go back to dino. Something about the seals getting used to the synthetic and then leaking when you out the dino in.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:37 PM
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I stand corrected…
· If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
· Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless
I didn’t know this, thanks 00r/t.mopar.muscle
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:50 PM
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makes sense. My sxt leaked a bit on synthetic from the oil filter, but now its fine. Been running synthetic ever since ive driving it. It used regular for 1 year. Otherwise the coating idea is very true, ive seen it when i was working on my ford contour, theres a fine layer of oil coating the cams. I cant imagine how fine that layer is inside the motor.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-12-2006, 11:57 PM
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BTW I should have quoted that writing in my last post.
It came from a very interesting site and is a good read.

Here ist the link.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 12:05 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Memorex88
I stand corrected…
· If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
· Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless
I didn’t know this, thanks 00r/t.mopar.muscle

so if they been using a w-40 oil on my car and now on my next oil change i want to stick to the regular 15w-30 oil i cant?
or is this safe to do... ive been wondering... dont it get used to the w-40's thinkness?
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
 
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Anyone else have a yes or no answer?
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 02:12 AM
 
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lmaoo.... well ive been waiting but no one seems in the mood of helping today.... ;(
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 08:43 AM
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If you’re changing the viscosity according to the weather/season then IMO your actually trying to keep the thickness of the oil equal right?

I use only 10W-30 year-round. It’s perfect for my Canadian weather.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 10:22 AM
 
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Yes you can go back to Dino, no problem. A lot of ppl do it bcs of money. But I would advise you to keep the synthetic given your driving routine, wich is one that promotes sludge, with short trips and city driving wich is very aggressive on all parts of a car, especially on the engine. Those short trips don't give enough time for the oil to get really hot and evaporate all moisture, thus promoting sludge buildup. And also if you have long time intervals (low mileage driven)between oil changes synthetic is better since it doesn't break down as fast as dino oil while sitting in your pan. Just something to keep in mind when deciding to downgrade on your cars vital fluid.
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00r/t.mopar.muscle
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure once you go synthetic you can't go back to dino. Something about the seals getting used to the synthetic and then leaking when you out the dino in.
No at all. You can go back and forth anytime you like. I've been doing for years and so have many others.

There is more tendency for seal leaks to occur WITH synthetic. The oil blenders purposely add seal conditioners in synth oil to combat this. Seal on regular dino oil are not a problem.

In recognition of age-related seal deterioration, most of the High Milege oils now have elevated levels of seal conditioners to help swell seals to reduce or stop leaks.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Memorex88
I stand corrected…
· If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
· Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless
I didn’t know this, thanks 00r/t.mopar.muscle
I know this post is well intentioned, but please ignore it. Most of the information is incorrect.

Let me apologize in advance : I'm not trying to upset anyone here, but the misinformation has to stop.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAttousaix27
so if they been using a w-40 oil on my car and now on my next oil change i want to stick to the regular 15w-30 oil i cant?
or is this safe to do... ive been wondering... dont it get used to the w-40's thinkness?
Change back to the correct viscosity anytime you want. Engines don't "get used " to anything. An engine is a lifeless collection of machined parts. It doesn't know or remember anything.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 08-13-2006, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Memorex88
If you’re changing the viscosity according to the weather/season then IMO your actually trying to keep the thickness of the oil equal right?

I use only 10W-30 year-round. It’s perfect for my Canadian weather.
Correct !!

By changing viscosities according to season, you are only addressing the oil viscosity at the cold temperature - ie. when the engine has cooled and is first being started.

Guys that live in hot areas like Texas or Arizona could easily run a straight 30 weight oil at the hottest times of the year. Multi-grade would not actually be required.
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