Rod knock vs lifter noise on startup?? - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Rod knock vs lifter noise on startup??

Ok, early 1990s CJ with the 4.0HO

Just so that I'm clear on the differences between the sounds that rod knock makes vs noisy lifters.....

Rod knock will always be there, it doesn't go away after the motor warms up or the oil gets circulating.

Lifter noise will generally soften or even go away after the engine has been running for a while.

Lifter noise can usually be fixed without opening up the motor, just pull the valve cover on the correct side and change out the rockers/adjusters/springs as needed.

Rod noise requires a tear down to repair, probably mains front to back.

Have I got that right??

Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 05:24 PM
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The rod knock will always be there, but will me more audible when the engine is under load, or revved up. It will also be much faster than the valve tick. If you have a rod knock, chances are it needs bearings, oil pump, crank machined--bottom end rebuild basically. Piston slap is a similar but reciprocating noise that happens twice as fast as a rod knock. This would also require a rebuild.

A valve tick can be a simple fix, changing rockers, etc, unless there is a problem with the valves themselves, then the head usually has to come off.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 03:19 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32Intrepid
The rod knock will always be there, but will me more audible when the engine is under load, or revved up. It will also be much faster than the valve tick. If you have a rod knock, chances are it needs bearings, oil pump, crank machined--bottom end rebuild basically. Piston slap is a similar but reciprocating noise that happens twice as fast as a rod knock. This would also require a rebuild.

A valve tick can be a simple fix, changing rockers, etc, unless there is a problem with the valves themselves, then the head usually has to come off.
I got the rod knoc problem on my 01' ES with the 3.2 L. It's got about 66,500 miles on it. Any idea of how much I would be looking at to get this fixed for me. I can't do this type of work myself.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minikubz
I got the rod knoc problem on my 01' ES with the 3.2 L. It's got about 66,500 miles on it. Any idea of how much I would be looking at to get this fixed for me. I can't do this type of work myself.

The first thing is to see how bad the damage is. If it is a rod knock, present all the time, chances are, it will need a lower-end rebuild, which would include all bearings, machine or replace the crankshaft, and check the rods.

Someone would have to drop the oil pan, inspect the bearings and crankshaft, and make sure it isnt piston slap to get a good idea.

If it does need the lower end rebuilt, your at least looking at pulling the engine, and as long as there is no damage to the rest of the engine; block, heads, cams, etc, and doing the repairs.

You may want to consider either replacing the engine with a used one, or just doing a total rebuild and going thru the whole thing, since your going thru all the trouble pulling the engine. It will depend on what you want to spend.

I can give you a ballpark of what the crankshaft and bearings will cost. When I rebuilt my 3.2, I bought a crankshaft kit which came with all the bearings, and by the time I was done with lower end gaskets, etc, had about $400 just in parts. I had about $2000 in the rest of the engine rebuild. It needed the heads reconditioned, and new pistons/rods.

Roughly, just to rebuild the bottom end, in your average repair shop at 60/hr, you would probably have $1500 in it. Having a total rebuild done, $2500 - $4000 depending on what your engine needs, or whether you just want to go with a reman engine, like a Jasper.


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Last edited by Daytrepper; 10-12-2006 at 10:29 PM.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 10:48 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32Intrepid
You may want to consider either replacing the engine with a used one, or just doing a total rebuild and going thru the whole thing, since your going thru all the trouble pulling the engine. It will depend on what you want to spend.

I can give you a ballpark of what the crankshaft and bearings will cost. When I rebuilt my 3.2, I bought a crankshaft kit which came with all the bearings, and by the time I was done with lower end gaskets, etc, had about $400 just in parts. I had about $2000 in the rest of the engine rebuild. It needed the heads reconditioned, and new pistons/rods.

Roughly, just to rebuild the bottom end, in your average repair shop at 60/hr, you would probably have $1500 in it. Having a total rebuild done, $2500 - $4000 depending on what your engine needs, or whether you just want to go with a reman engine, like a Jasper.
Thanks alot. Just a ballpark figure, how much do you think it would cost labor and then for the engine if I just had a swap?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by minikubz
Thanks alot. Just a ballpark figure, how much do you think it would cost labor and then for the engine if I just had a swap?
I would say, $600 for labor, then if you get a used engine, ballpark $1200 - $1500. I would add another $100 for oil, fluids, misc parts.

New/reman engine, about $800 labor, $2700-$3200 for engine, depending.
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