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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Glycol in oil

I have just finished changing the water pump in my 2.7 (just give me 10 minutes with the engineer who came up with that design) and in the process, I managed to get about a cup of anti freeze into the engine oil..
My question?? Can I drive it to get the oil changed or should this be done before I move it?

Also, before I put the timing chain and valve covers back on, what is the best way to clean the sludge builup? It breaks away easy enough, but I am concerned about the amount of gunk falling back into the engine..

Any hints would be appreciated...
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 10:45 AM
 
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change the oil now.

That 'one cup' of coolant in the oil is about 10% of the total volume, quite a bit of contamination.

Your choice, a $20 oil change or driving with known-bad oil.

Start using Mobil1 oil ($20 a gal at WallyMart) and change it on a 3-4k miles schedule for a few changes. Change the filter too. DO NOT use any kind of oil additive that claims to clean out a motor. Sure, that expensive kerosese will clean things out, but it will do it all at once and that crap floating around has a chance of plugging something else up.

Better to do the cleaning gently, but that just's my opinion. Others favor the Big Bang.

The frequent changes with M1 will loosen and clean out the sludge. Keep an eye on the car for leaks, M1 is so slippery that it will seep through any marginal seals in the engine.

If you don't get any leaks fine. Stay with M1 as long as you can buy it cheaply. If you do get a few leaks keep on with the frequent oil changes and at the end change back to a oil with a seal-swelling formula like the Castrol high-mileage stuff.

Last edited by '98-ESer; 11-14-2006 at 10:50 AM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 11:52 AM
 
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just do your own oil change with a good synthetic now in your garage. its soo easy. (expect for finding a good place to put the jack ). that will take care of the sludge. I myself would clean as much of the sludge out physically as i could and try to take steps from it falling into any exposure area of engine it shouldnt be in.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 12:09 PM
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I do agree with changing the oil before you run the engine. Reason is the coolant is in the oil pan and if you drain the oil pan you will have removed 100% of the coolant you spilled.

If you run the engine, the oil pickup will pull everything out of the pan and push it into the engine's galleries and bearings. Changing it after driving will leave a minute amount behind.

I don't agree with changing the filter at this time. A proper oil and filter change is done with a warm engine. This is not a regular oil and filter change but a fix for spilling coolant in the oil.

There are critical moments the engine has 0 oil pressure after an oil change. Changing cold oil and a new filter, even prefilled, only adds to that time.

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