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post #166 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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I wonder if I should fill up with some of that "ethanol free" gas they sell out here for "off road use". It's a little more $$$ per gal.
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post #167 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Nobody on the road this morning. On my way to work, I "opened her up" a little WOT. Gotta blow all that crap out of the system... she loved every minute of it!

*arrives at work with smile on face*
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post #168 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:46 AM
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Was wondering how long that was going to take. What color smoke??
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post #169 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:47 AM
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Have you changed out the plugs and wires yet?
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post #170 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mnitetrain View Post
Was wondering how long that was going to take. What color smoke??
Haven't really seen any since I've had it running right. I did see a bunch of white smoke the other day, while I was playing with the carb and having issues.

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Have you changed out the plugs and wires yet?
Yessir!
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post #171 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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So what do y'all think about the fuel choices? I do have available, as mentioned, this place here in town that sells "ethanol free" gas, where there's a sign that reads "for off road use only". But there's a hot rod shop a couple doors down, and I hear they all get their gas there.... so...

When I brought up the "Ethanol subject" to an older buddy of mine, he goes "Oh, don't worry, Chrysler started using hardened steel valves back in the 70's because they knew the gas was going to change. You can burn anything you want to in there!" ...

I'm like "yeah ok, the valves are going to be ok, but what about everything else?"

(I never got an answer from him on that)

Anyway, I think I might try some of that ethanol free stuff... see how it runs with it.

Otherwise, with the "normal gas" at the regular gas stations everywhere, the 87, 89, and 92 octane choices all have the same ethanol right? (up to 10%)

Would there be any difference, or benefit of running premium (92) in this car?





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post #172 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Ed's 1980 Chrysler Cordoba

And then of course there's the whole synthetic vs conventional dyno oil thing. I'm open to all thoughts and input on this.

As with my intrepid, I never had any issues running Mobil1 full synth in the 3.2, but this 318 is from another time. Should I stick with conventional?

(I know this debate has been going, and will continue to go on until the end of time)

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post #173 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 11:42 AM
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The valve discussion was geared towards Unleaded Fuel. The manufacturers changed the material of the valve seats to compensate for the loss of Lead in the fuel. Ethanol and Ethanol Free are both considered unleaded fuels.
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post #174 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 11:45 AM
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I'd also stick with conventional oil. Both for the cost savings and reports of seals leaking on older cars when synthetic oil is used. Just get the best oil filter you can find.
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post #175 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 12:51 PM
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I use ethanol-free gasoline in all my vehicles and lawnmowers - have been for probably 8 or 9 years now.

Its a lot easier on the rubber and plastic parts in the fuel system, plus has more energy content. I pay more, and there's not an ethanol-free station on every corner, but I figure over the years it could make the difference in fuel system maintenance/problems. Ethanol is cheaper to the consumer only because it is tax-payer subsidized.

I find that fuel hoses on my lawnmowers definitely last a lot longer with ethanol-free fuel.

You may already know about this site where you select your state and look up your city for locations of ethanol-free gasoline: Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
My wife and I know the local ones, and that's where we fill up. When we travel, we generally get the regular fuels, unless I'm traveling by myself and have the time to find a station on that web site on my iPhone and maybe drive a couple of miles out of the way. YMMV - LITERALLY!! Heh heh!
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post #176 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 01:15 PM
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On the dino vs. synthetic oil, I think Ron is right. If you have marginal seals and gaskets, the synthetic will find them and leak. but if your seals and gaskets are in good shape, you should be fine. If you're not sure, it's a risk. Worst-case, you will end up needing to replace the bad seals and gaskets.

Some people claim that synthetic will clean away residue that helps keep seals and gaskets from leaking in older engines with dino oil. That may or may not be a myth left over from years ago when Mobil 1 came out and they had 3 or 4 years of experimenting before they got the chemical additives that control rubber expansion/contraction balanced out correctly. Many people who switched over in the early days ended up with huge oil leaks. I haven't had any leaks in either of my Concordes, my wife's '99 Buick, my '85 F150, or, you guessed it, my lawnmowers since switching to synthetic at high mileage 5 or 6 years ago

I use Shell Rotella T-6 (5W-40) in all my cars and lawnmowers, except for a brand new vehicle in which I use Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. I made the move from dino oil (with 8 ozs. of Marvel Mystery Oil added) to synthetics as I've gotten older, mainly to spread out the oil change intervals a little (I'm still a DIY'er). T-6 is at Walmart all day long for about $21 a gallon (costs a good bit more at Advance).

The T-6 has some zinc, which has been greatly lowered in the SAE spec. for passenger car oil. Zinc gives some anti-wear advantages. (The truck SAE spec. allows a bit more zinc - the allowables for zinc content in the car and truck oils overlaps. The T-6 is in that overlap part and so meets both SAE specs.)
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Last edited by peva; 04-03-2017 at 01:17 PM.
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post #177 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbo View Post
The valve discussion was geared towards Unleaded Fuel. The manufacturers changed the material of the valve seats to compensate for the loss of Lead in the fuel. Ethanol and Ethanol Free are both considered unleaded fuels.
I know. I was specifically talking about ethanol, and he had a flashback or something and started telling me about how they changed things to accept the loss of lead etc.

He basically couldn't answer me about how the car "handles" ethanol. And of course it's all unleaded Ron.
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post #178 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peva View Post
I use ethanol-free gasoline in all my vehicles and lawnmowers - have been for probably 8 or 9 years now.

Its a lot easier on the rubber and plastic parts in the fuel system, plus has more energy content. I pay more, and there's not an ethanol-free station on every corner, but I figure over the years it could make the difference in fuel system maintenance/problems. Ethanol is cheaper to the consumer only because it is tax-payer subsidized.

I find that fuel hoses on my lawnmowers definitely last a lot longer with ethanol-free fuel.

You may already know about this site where you select your state and look up your city for locations of ethanol-free gasoline: Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
My wife and I know the local ones, and that's where we fill up. When we travel, we generally get the regular fuels, unless I'm traveling by myself and have the time to find a station on that web site on my iPhone and maybe drive a couple of miles out of the way. YMMV - LITERALLY!! Heh heh!
Well, I decided to start using ethanol free today. Turns out there's actually two pumps; one, for "off road/marine use", (which has a higher octane rating I'm guessing) and the other for road vehicles at 89 octane.

And the car's been running so good, now that I've properly plugged that vacuum port, that I went ahead and filler her up. Let's see how she does!


Last edited by Intrep_ED; 04-03-2017 at 05:47 PM. Reason: Forgot to add pic
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post #179 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and my "Engine Performance Manual" arrived today!

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post #180 of 276 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intrep_ED View Post
I know. I was specifically talking about ethanol, and he had a flashback or something and started telling me about how they changed things to accept the loss of lead etc.

He basically couldn't answer me about how the car "handles" ethanol. And of course it's all unleaded Ron.
Ethanol tears up older cars fuel system system components as Bill will probably verify. It doesn't happen overnight and it might be years. Benefits are more energy per gallon as Bill indicated plus the lack of corrosive Ethanol. After that it's all about the Benjamins. What's the cost difference per gallon?

You were talking about Ethanol when you made the Valve reference so I wanted to make sure we were on the same page.
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