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post #91 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 09:38 PM
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It's weird, cuz right now I can go out there and she'll start right up. Now that she's cool and been sitting for a few hours. And she'll run perfect, like nothing ever happened lol..

I might try to siphon some gas out of the tank. It sure seems like this level in the tank (about 7/8ths full) is where it starts having issues. Of course this could all be just my imagination.
Need to do some tests when it wont start. See what is missing, spark or fuel---you know you have compression. It could be a faulty coil that is not working properly when hot. Check it for spark when it wont start, if it has spark, take the air cleaner off so you can see into the carb. Manually operate the throttle lever and see if the jets are spraying fuel. Go from there.
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post #92 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 09:42 PM
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Don't forget that Electronic Ignition Conversion and it's Module, etc.
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post #93 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Need to do some tests when it wont start. See what is missing, spark or fuel---you know you have compression. It could be a faulty coil that is not working properly when hot. Check it for spark when it wont start, if it has spark, take the air cleaner off so you can see into the carb. Manually operate the throttle lever and see if the jets are spraying fuel. Go from there.


It does look like a very old coil. Next time it does this, I'll have to check for spark immediately while it's still hot.

What do you think about the pressure in my tank though Dan? When I take the gas cap off, there's a bunch of pressure released. Doesn't seem normal. I was thinking my vented gas cap might need to be replaced.
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post #94 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 10:20 PM
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It does look like a very old coil. Next time it does this, I'll have to check for spark immediately while it's still hot.

What do you think about the pressure in my tank though Dan? When I take the gas cap off, there's a bunch of pressure released. Doesn't seem normal. I was thinking my vented gas cap might need to be replaced.
I'm kind of rusty on those old emissions systems, but some of them used to pressurize the fuel tank to charge the evap canister (IIRC, not sure on this one)....some pressure is normal. Dr. Tom may have better insight on that one.
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post #95 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 10:44 PM
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What? No Coil On Plug? WTF?


Just Kidding!
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post #96 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ed's 1980 Chrysler Cordoba

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daytrepper View Post
I'm kind of rusty on those old emissions systems, but some of them used to pressurize the fuel tank to charge the evap canister (IIRC, not sure on this one)....some pressure is normal. Dr. Tom may have better insight on that one.


It seems like an abnormal amount of pressure to me. I've been doing some reading on the subject and have read some horror stories about gas tanks actually collapsing from being over pressurized. I know the gas cap that comes with the car is vented by design, but idk if it's working right or not. I tried blowing through it and could slightly. Might pick up a replacement just to rule that out.

Wouldn't you know the car started right up this morning, and I let her sit and idle for a good 10-15 minutes. Running great, like nothing's wrong.

I did decide to leave her at the house today and caught a ride to work with a coworker.




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post #97 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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I'm off again tomorrow, so I plan on trying to figure out what the issue is (if there still is one - it might have just been some trash or water in the gas idk!)


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post #98 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Frustrating as hell when it seems fine starting up in the morning, runs great, let it sit and idle and warm up. It'll continue running fine.

Then, I'll try to drive it off somewhere and it'll leave me stranded. lol

I need to make a remote start switch under the hood somewhere, where I can crank it and check for spark when there's no help around...
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post #99 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I need to quit trying to chance it, and use the GF's Honda until I can figure out what's going on. I took her out this morning after she started right up, and sat and warmed up in my driveway for a good 10-15 minutes running perfectly. And she even ran perfectly up to wal-mart where I went to pick up some items for the GF. Up till I pulled into the parking spot she sputtered out and died. So I just put her in park and went into wal-mart.

When I came back out (I reckon 10-15 minutes later) she started right up, and I proceeded to make my way back home. Got about 2 miles away from Walmart and she shuts down while on the road doing about 40mph. I muscle her off the road and there I sat for the next hour - hour and a 1/2 or so, cranking, fiddling, cranking and fiddling some more until eventually she started up again and I made my merry way home. Pull in the driveway at home and put her in park, this time she's idling nice and smooth. Running perfectly! So I just let her run... for a good 5 minutes more, while I'm standing here in my garage door watching her run... then she just cuts off again. Jump in and try to start her back up.. and nothing. Probably going to be another hour before that happens.

Keep in mind that the tank still has a little over 3/4 of a tank.

So here's my thoughts and guesses;

Either or all of

A. There's something in the gas (water, trash,) or air being sucked in at a line somewhere, like the jumper at the tank that a guy on the FMJ bodies forums is suggesting (will require dropping the tank), and making its way up to the carb.

B. Something is getting hot. Either the carb is getting hot and "percolating" the fuel (like I've read about) or the coil is getting hot like Dan suggested. I haven't been able to check for spark while it's hot yet, but that would explain it starting up after it cools down for a while -- getting the coil down to a cooler temperature to operate properly.

C. The fuel system is building up pressure and not venting properly. After she's been running for a while, I can take the gas cap off and it releases a whole bunch of pressure (like "whoooosshshsh") which leads me to believe there's some kind of vapor lock going on here. Maybe the pressure is to much for the old mechanical pump to fight and it starves the carb causing the shut down. After the pressure stabilizes for an hour or so, she'll start back up again. Hell, C could be causing A (a bunch of pressure causing air to be sucked in somewhere?)

D. Maybe the carb just needs to be rebuilt?

My FSM arrived today! The bummer is that it doesn't include the "Fuel System" or the "Emissions System"... I've got to get the "Engine Performance Manual" for that... ugh
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post #100 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:01 PM
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Almost to the point of changing out intake manifold and putting a 4 barrel on there. Thought there was a module of some sort (IIRC drivers fender) which caused a LOT of no start failures back in the day....Do think heat had something to do with it.

Wonder if more info might be available on one of the older 318/360/440 forums???? Got to bedriving you nuts.
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post #101 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Almost to the point of changing out intake manifold and putting a 4 barrel on there. Thought there was a module of some sort (IIRC drivers fender) which caused a LOT of no start failures back in the day....Do think heat had something to do with it.

Wonder if more info might be available on one of the older 318/360/440 forums???? Got to bedriving you nuts.
I've been posting over at the FMJ body forums (F, M, and J body cars - Cordoba, Mirada, Diplomat, Aspen, Volare, Gran Fury, New Yorker etc) There's some guys over there suggesting some things (like that fuel jumper line at the tank - which I'll need to empty the tank and drop to get to), and are real knowledgeable about these cars.

I'm just trying a few different things while I avoid siphoning all of the gas out of the tank. I do like the idea of a new intake and 4bbl.

The module you're thinking of was probably the "lean burn" carb setup, which this car has been converted to an electronic ignition system. Come to think of it, maybe that is getting hot and malfunctioning?
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post #102 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:26 PM
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Replacing electronic ignition completely in 1970s-1980s Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth cars and trucks

My car runs good when it's cold but stalls once it warms up? What gives?

Time to start picking some old Mopar diehards brains, must be some groups/cruiseins down there.

I still think the Lean Burn system is a big part of your problem and not 100% sure what previous owner did when he went with Mallory system.
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post #103 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:32 PM
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I say slap a 440 in there with a 4 barrel. Funk it!
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post #104 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing electronic ignition completely in 1970s-1980s Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth cars and trucks

My car runs good when it's cold but stalls once it warms up? What gives?

Time to start picking some old Mopar diehards brains, must be some groups/cruiseins down there.

I still think the Lean Burn system is a big part of your problem and not 100% sure what previous owner did when he went with Mallory system.
Thanks Hank. I'm going to figure this out eventually.
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post #105 of 276 (permalink) Old 03-27-2017, 07:38 PM
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