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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Wheels not perpendicular

So I just bought a 2000 Intrepid and I am just starting to look it over.
Jacked it up and I cranked the wheels all the way to the left. My left wheel looked to be pushed more out at the top then bottom, not perpendicular to the ground. The other wheel seemed fine. Cranked it to the right and same thing, right wheel seemed leaning out at the top more.

Now I'm no mechanic so if this is normal please tell me so... otherwise.....

I was told when I bought it that the tie rods may need to be looked at. There was a little play in them, I am not sure if that means its the inner or outer that needs replacing, or both.

If anyone has some suggestions for this rookie, it would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Upon further inspection, My left inner tie rod seems to be moving, and my right outter tie rod seems to be moving.

But my real concern is the wheels still, not staying perpendicular to the ground on turns.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 08:39 PM
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OK - with your tire angle when the car is jacked up, that is camber.

See below


Now with the tie rods, that effects the toe. see below: Notice top view.


The inner tie rods will effect toe.

The inner tie rod bushings on these cars are VERY well known to go bad. Many of us had to replace them.

NAPA sells a split version, about $15. Top cowl has to be removed, do one side at a time. Many posts on DI about changing them.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 08:59 PM
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There do lean (to an extent) with a turn. However, you can't test with the car jacked up.

If you have worn components, replace them (ALL) before having an alignment done.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 09:21 PM
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Some positive camber is within spec for the front end so you may be ok. Regardless you should change the parts you need, tie rods or other, then get an alignment. I d ont believe there is any camber adjustment in these cars besides what you can get by moving the upper strut mount within the bolt holes. Besides that you have to replace the lower strut bolts with eccentric bolts.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 10:58 PM
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You can also get some adjustment by moving the lower control arm to subframe bolt in/out. I'd estimte that it allows only about 1/8 of a degree though, so it may not be worth it.

Side to side adjustment is also available by moving the subframe. No alignment shop is likely to do either of these, but if you're motivated (or pay) these adjustments can be done.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I went through rock auto and this is what I bought, I think its all I will need to change the Tie Rods.

RAYBESTOS Part # 4011843B (got 2)
ULTRAPOWER Part # ES3532 (Front Left)
ULTRAPOWER Part # ES3531 (Front Right)

Also saw adjustable sleeves but it seemed like these tie rods would fit together without it?

Also found a bushing in the trunk, hoping its for the car.
And I have a Haynes book on its way, and been watching youtube to figure out what I'm suppose to do. They said use locktite?
Do I seem headed in the right direction?

Last edited by TDevils6; 08-29-2013 at 09:31 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 10:26 AM
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ALL cars have what is called "caster".
The upper ball joint (or top of strut) is behind the center line if looking at the wheel from the side.
When turning, the top, front of the wheel will arch.
This is quite normal. However, there should be NO play in the suspension joints at all.

As Scooter said, the inner tie rods are a notorious week link in the system.

Last edited by JCnBOYS; 08-30-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCnBOYS View Post
ALL cars have what is called "caster".
The upper ball joint (or top of strut) is behind the center line if looking at the wheel from the side.
When turning, the top, front of the wheel will arch.
This is quite normal. However, there should be NO play in the suspension joints at all.

As Scooter said, the inner tie rods are a notorious week link in the system.
Correcting myself, this does describe proper caster, when you turn the wheels the camber is changed somewhat and does effect how the car steers.

Last edited by GTXKen; 08-30-2013 at 02:22 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 01:09 PM
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I stand by my words.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCnBOYS View Post
I stand by my words.
Sorry, you are correct. the top mount or the strut should be slightly rearward of the wheel centerline. It is positive caster. I stated it completely backwards. I removed it so I don't confuse anyone.

Last edited by GTXKen; 08-30-2013 at 02:23 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 02:44 PM
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I recommend you take it to a shop and get an alignment check with a print-out. That way you'll know what's out of spec. Then you can decide which parts are needed to correct any alignment parameters that are out of spec.

It sounds like you're describing a camber issue but there may be something lost in translation! With the alignment print out posted....people will be able to tell you what area(s) need work and what parts might be needed to correct the issues.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTXKen View Post
Sorry, you are correct. the top mount or the strut should be slightly rearward of the wheel centerline. It is positive caster. I stated it completely backwards. I removed it so I don't confuse anyone.
Ain't no big thing. The big thing is you catching yourself and owning up to it. KUDOS to you!!
I don't walk on water either.
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