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post #46 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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We spent Sunday afternoon tearing the dash apart to access the keyless entry codes!! Success.
The dash on trucks don't seem as bad as the LH cars, I'm glad to hear your tear down went well!

Well I'm back on this project now. I've got the tailgate handle off along with the tailgate and bumper. I'm probably going to take the hitch in to get powdercoated along with the bumper brackets front and back. I've also pulled the tailights and side mirrors and put those away. Today I pulled the window weather stripping and the rest of the rubber and trim on the doors. They're almost ready to go, I just need to remove what's left of the adhesive that held the pillars on. From there I pulled the front seats which turned out to be quite the chore. Some of the bolts holding the seats down were a bit rusty and my battery powered impact wouldn't touch them.

By the end of this week I hope to have the dash pulled and out of the way. It shouldn't be too bad, I've got the FSM procedure along with a video on YouTube that takes you through it step by step.






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post #47 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 07:17 PM
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By the end of this week I hope to have the dash pulled and out of the way. It shouldn't be too bad, I've got the FSM procedure along with a video on YouTube that takes you through it step by step.
Then are you bringing it to the junk yard?
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post #48 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 07:27 AM
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Paint seem brighter in your recent pics than the original pics. Been doing some rubbing?
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post #49 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-13-2016, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Then are you bringing it to the junk yard?
Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of having a rebuild thread?

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Paint seem brighter in your recent pics than the original pics. Been doing some rubbing?
My phone was acting up so I used my work cell to take those 3 pictures. I didn't notice but it does seem to take lighter pictures, or my personal cell phone takes them darker. I haven't done any buffing yet, at this rate I'll probably get on it next year!
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post #50 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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All the bumper brackets and the hitch are now at the powdercoater to get a coat of satin black. The two bumpers are there too getting a coat of powdercoat primer. Last night I pulled the dash out of the truck, that was a fun adventure. The YouTube instructions I followed missed a few steps, I should have just stuck with the FSM instructions. I finally got it out though and put it into storage. Net up is removing the parking brake lever and the fuse box so the body shop can have easy access to t he apron tube mounts. Once that's done, I'll finish stripping the interior down so that I can clean it all when the truck is away. Depending on what I end up doing this weekend, I might just have it ready to go to the shop Monday!






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post #51 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 08:12 PM
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Nice progress Steph. Is it going to the shop for paint or something else? (I think I missed that step).
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post #52 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 08:19 AM
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Wonder if now wouldn't be a good time to replace heater core and evaporator?? Clean and lube the linkages on heat/ac.
Probably don't want to go back in there again.
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post #53 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Nice progress Steph. Is it going to the shop for paint or something else? (I think I missed that step).
The front apron tubes (the tubes that the fenders bolt onto) will need to be replaced since they were damaged in the collision. To do that correctly, they have to get to some of the spot welds located behind the dash, that's why I pulled it. So pulling the dash myself saves the shop from doing it which saves me some money. It'll go to the shop without a dash on a flat bed so it shouldn't be an issue.

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Wonder if now wouldn't be a good time to replace heater core and evaporator?? Clean and lube the linkages on heat/ac.
Probably don't want to go back in there again.
That's a good thought. I might take the box apart to clean out the evap and heater core, I'm not sure about replacing them though. If it was a 2013 I'd consider the evap, they started cheaping out on the cores and many of them start to leak. I'll definitely look at the linkages though.

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post #54 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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I'm almost there! Last Sunday I pressed on and got a lot done. I got the interior all stripped down so I can give it a thorough cleaning and give the body shop plenty of space to work in.






I then removed the battery and windshield washer fluid reservoir along with the airbox and coolant tank. I was then able to strip off all the wiring and brackets off the apron tubes, it's that much less for the body shop to do. From there I removed the hood insulator along with the wipers and cowl assembly.



I also removed the running boards to get them out of the way of the body shop. I'm not sure if I'm going to put them back on or go another way though. I finished off the day by starting to cleaning the under body of all the gravel that's accumulated in all the nooks and crannies. I want to get it fairly clean so that when the rust proofing is applied it's got a good surface to stick too.



Last night I finished removing all the two way tape from the door B pillars and the new fender. I used a decal removal wheel and it made the job a lot easier. I followed that up with some Goo-Gone. The truck is nearly ready to ship out. All that's left to do before it goes to the body shop is finish washing the under-body and to sort all the hardware.

One thing I thing I missed a few weeks back. I finished stripping the new apron tubes/ radiator cross member assembly so that they are ready to be blasted and painted.



I also scored a sweet deal on a set of Ford rear wheel well liners. They're brand new, never installed and include all the hardware. I got them for $100 cash, they list for $155 at my local dealer.



Last but not least, today I ordered up a set of fender flares that will be painted to match the truck.



2009 2014 Ford F 150 Fender Flares Rugged Style Paintable Finish 4 Pcs | eBay

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post #55 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 09:46 AM
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Lookin good Steph

Any idea of what you'll have into it when you get it done? Would you go that route again?
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post #56 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Lookin good Steph

Any idea of what you'll have into it when you get it done? Would you go that route again?
I'll probably come in at $5k less than what it would cost me to go buy a similar truck off the lot, plus I'm saving the taxes. On top of that, I'm doing a lot of extras that I wouldn't get when buying a similar truck off the lot (paint to match exterior components, Bilstein front struts, heated seats). And the best part of it all, no body rust since this truck is from Alberta. Buying a similar truck out there might cost me $10k more give or take. The figures I'm stating are just estimates since I don't know exactly what the body shop will charge me to get the truck done. The frame might end up being too far out to fix which would require a lot more work (frame swap).

Would I do this again, I probably will at some point. One of my problems right now is a new job that requires more of my time than the one I had before. Also, chances are I'm not going to attempt it without having a garage to work in either.

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post #57 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Last Sunday I got the chance to finish washing out the bottom of the truck and I sorted the hardware for the body shop. I then got ambitious and washed out the carpet, the interior plastics and the seat belts with my power washer. Everything turned out great, the carpet was filthy with a clay like substance. It came out near-new, it's the same story with the seat belts.

With that progress, the truck finally went to the body shop yesterday morning! They got it up on the frame machine and things are looking good. It's only the front part of the frame that's tweaked. The manager seems confident that they can bring it back over and into spec without too much hassle. He wanted me to source out some new door hinges for the passenger front door since it was sitting kinda funny. I was able to get those to him by the end of the day which was good. I just placed my order for the new passenger fender, upper bumper cover and lower valence. The one frame horn that I need is being sourced from a good used truck since the body shop wants an OEM piece and they're $500 new.

The carpet prior to cleaning it (the results will follow).



Hanging some seatbelts to dry!

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post #58 of 89 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 06:32 PM
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Getting exciting!
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post #59 of 89 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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I talked to the body shop this morning. The frame is now strait, they are working on welding on the new frame horn. The apron tubes are apparently all out now too with the new ones going in shortly.

Here's the new/used frame horn. Aftermarket ones were $100 but the body shop wanted an OEM one. The dealer wanted around $500 for one so this used one for $150 was a good deal.



Last Friday was like Christmas for me. I got my RockAuto order with my new fender, bumper cover and bumper valence. I also picked up the front and rear bumpers that are now powdercoated with a primer. I also got the bumper brackets and receiver hitch PC'd in a black.









It was all short lived because they sent me the wrong fender. I got a fender for a Jeep Grand Cherokee instead of one for an F150. RockAuto is sending me a new one, but I won't be getting it until tomorrow evening.



Last but not least, another accessory! This time I got a half decent deal on a set of WeatherTech mats for the front. I had already gotten a good deal on a set (front and rear). However the front passenger mat in that set was damaged pretty badly. These are in great shape so I'll just resell the other front set to recoup some of the cost.


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post #60 of 89 (permalink) Old 10-03-2016, 07:43 PM
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Nice project and progress Steph. As you said - in the long run - you'll be ahead $$$ wise but it's done right.
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