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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Leaky Power Steering Pump

How difficult a job is it to replace the pump? Is it hard to get to, and what items need to be removed to get at the pump - if any? Not much work room with such a big engine.

Thanks!

1996 Chrysler Concorde LXi
24-valve, 3.5 engine
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Bump.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 12:59 PM
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Try posting on the first-gen part of the forum. This particular section could be 1st or 2nd gen.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, peva. I just now noticed that.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 12:21 PM
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not bad plenty of room. hard part is pulling the pulley off and installing it.

make sure its not actually the high pressure hose fitting end. thats where mine is leaking and its getting all over the alternator and battery.

the HP hose is only about 25 bucks at NAPA its long length back to the firewall rack unit up high driver side.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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There is no spray of fluid that I can see - only a drip to the pavement.

I slowly added a bottle of Lucus power steering stop leak a while back, but I have had to top off the fluid since then. I assume removing the pump is an underneath the car job?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-06-2017, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Bump.

I was hoping the stop leak would help, but it has not, so I guess I'll be working on this soon. Does anyone know of a good thread with pictures that could guide me along here?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 09:54 AM
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I did a quick search and didn't see any pictures or videos, but here are the instructions. It seems pretty straight forward. The bleeding part is always fun.

The hard part will be changing the the pulley if you don't have the tool. Do yourself a favor and get the right tool. You can probably rent one from Autozone.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable
2. Loosen and remove power steering drive belt
3. Raise and support vehicle
4. Drain power steering fluid from reservoir into a suitable container
5. Loosen and remove power steering pressure hose from pump discharge fitting
6. Loosen and remove bolts attaching pump to pump bracket through holes in pump drive pulley
7. Remove pump and pulley as an assembly from the vehicle through bottom of engine compartment

Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
A. Correct orientation of power steering pressure hose at power steering pump must be maintained. Ensure power steering hose is installed in orientation clip at power steering pump prior to tightening tube fitting
B. After installing the pump, fill with fluid then manually turn oil pump pulley a few times by hand before connecting the belt.
B. Bleed system according to power steering bleed procedure.

Power steering system bleed:
1. BE SURE TO KEEP FLUID IN RESERVOIR AT THE CORRECT LEVEL AT ALL TIMES
2. Start engine, verify correct fluid level
3. Raise and support vehicle
3. Turn steering wheel stop to stop, turn engine off.
4. Verify correct fluid level.
5. Start engine
6. Turn steering wheel stop to stop 5 or 6 times
7. Verify correct fluid level.
8. Turn steering wheel stop to stop until no bubbles
9. Ensure fluid is not milky and that it is at the proper level.
10.Verify there is little or no change in fluid level when steering wheel is turned from stop to stop
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RECTIFIER View Post
9. Ensure fluid is not milky and that it is at the proper level.

Milky? Is that due to trapped air bubbles in the system or bad power steering fluid?

Thanks much. I'll see what I can do after ordering the parts.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017, 08:36 AM
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Milky would be contaminated. Typically by water.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-13-2017, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Ouch. Put the car on a lift today, and found out the rack is leaking too. Total cost for replacing the pump and the rack is $900.00. ($600.00 for the rack alone)

I plan to fix the pump myself, but is the rack a bit too much for most backyard mechanics? Last year, I replaced the inner tie-rod bushings myself, so I know how to gain access to the area, but does the (aluminum) plenum have to come off to remove the rack?

Without looking at the manual, I know fluid lines need disconnecting, and then there's the issue of the steering linkage. If I recall correctly, one has to access some hardware between the transmission housing and the underbody (I think). And then there's the power-assist electronics. I assume this can be harvested off the old rack and installed on the new? (if buying a remanufactured rack without said electronics)

EDIT: I don't guess rebuilding the rack is an option here?

Last edited by rusty; 10-13-2017 at 03:12 PM.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-16-2017, 09:59 AM
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Uh oh. This might be rough.

There's a note here that says "The rack and pinion power steering gear used on these models should not be serviced or adjusted. If a malfunction or oil leak should occur, the complete steering gear should be replaced".

So... you're looking at replacement.

HERE'S THE GOOD NEWS - Rock Auto has some available for far cheaper than $600. If you have the standard rack, that's only $99 (plus $107 core = $206). If you have Speed Proportional Steering, that's listed for $185 (plus $70 core = $255). That saves you some pretty major coin right there.

Now the potentially bad news. This is not a fun job. About 4-5 hours is the standard for a mechanic. In my opinion, the hardest part is getting the old rack bushings out of there, then putting the new ones back in. My dad made a special tool for putting them back in and it is a lifesaver.

If it were me, I'd do it myself to save the $300. You could get the cheaper part and have them put it in for you, but they will probably get you with some "extras". You'll need new rack bushings, for an example. Also, when it's all done, it will need an alignment. I'm not sure if that was in your estimate or not. On the other hand.... you can pay them to do it and you won't even have to get dirty!

I'm not sure what you mean by the aluminum plenum. If you're referring to the actual intake, that stays on. The recommended instructions say to remove the throttle cable, wiper arms, cowl, air intakes, idle air control motor, wiper motor module, master cylinder... and a couple other smaller things. Like I said, it's not going to be fun, but it is doable!

If you need them, I can PM the step-by-step instructions to you. There are some basic diagrams in there with it. Let me know!
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Now the potentially bad news. This is not a fun job. About 4-5 hours is the standard for a mechanic. In my opinion, the hardest part is getting the old rack bushings out of there, then putting the new ones back in. My dad made a special tool for putting them back in and it is a lifesaver.
Rack bushings. Are you referring to the inner tie rod bushings here, or are these bushings connected to hold down clamps?

Quote:
The recommended instructions say to remove the throttle cable, wiper arms, cowl, air intakes, idle air control motor, wiper motor module, master cylinder... and a couple other smaller things. Like I said, it's not going to be fun, but it is doable!

I'm familiar with the wiper assembly removal, air intakes, cowling and trim, but not the rest of the items. I've done disc and drum brakes, replaced wheel cylinders, and bled the lines, but never removed a master cylinder before. Sounds like it might be a long day or two for me.

I'd very much like to have that list of yours, Rectifier. I'll PM you soon.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-17-2017, 08:28 AM
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The rack bushings are on the bolts that hold the rack to the frame. Not the inner tie rod bushings.

The master cylinder part. I'm pretty sure on a 3.3 you could sneak the rack out without disrupting the master cylinder, but there's not really a lot of room behind a 3.5. I would definitely give it a try first, but the instructions do say to loosen up the master cylinder so you can move it out of the way. You don't actually remove it from the car... just move it to one side. I'm pretty certain it's just a space issue with the 3.5.

Anyway, PM headed your way with the printout. Have fun, and good luck! Let me know if you need anything!
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-23-2017, 01:42 PM
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I'm dreading this job. I have a feeling my rack is about to go and my whole front end suspension really needs to be redone as well. Just reading the description of the job puts me off honestly.
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