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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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96 Intrepid cranks but no start

Hi everyone! I need help.
I have a 96 Intrepid 3.5. It died while driving on highway. Cranks but won’t start.
I have:
Replaced cam and crank sensors
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced fuel regulator
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel pump relay
All fuses are good

Still just cranks. True starter fluid and I got nothing .

Did the key dance and got the code 54: no cam sensor detected at the PCM. Wtf?!,

Please help
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 10:53 PM
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Possible broken timing belt? How many miles on the car and when was the timing belt last changed?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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I’m not sure when it was last changed. Has 138,000 miles on it. I, also, replaced the ignition switch.
Would the timing belt throw off the code about the cam signal?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:04 PM
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With a broken timing belt the cams don't move at all.

Could also be the Cam Sensor itself. Where did you buy it?

If it won't start with starting fluid sprayed in the intake then possible no ignition/spark. Have you checked for spark. What about the ignition coil? A lot of variables here.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the cam sensor from Auto Zone. I was planning on checking for spark tomorrow. I did replace all of the spark plugs. I’m just very frustrated.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I have a question, forgive me bc I’m a girl. I learned car stuff from my dad. But...if my timing belt is in good condition, if it’s out of time, can it just be adjusted?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2018, 11:48 PM
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It won't go out of time unless the belt breaks or the belt tensioner fails. The 1st gen cars are Non-Interference engines so if the belt broke or the tensioner failed it won't damage valves. Then you set up the timing on the cams and crankshaft and put a new belt on. Does it sound odd while trying to start it it. Turns over to easy? Another way to verify without taking things apart is a compression test.

Check for spark and go from there.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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It sounds normal when trying to start. I’ll check spark tomorrow. And I’ll let you know how it goes . Thank you for helping
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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No spark. I’m checking to make sure the correct wires are attached to the coil pack. Fingers crossed
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 10:48 PM
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I had the exact issue after I did my timing belt. I didn't tighten it enough and a week later it slipped a couple teeth, wouldn't start back up after I turned the car off.

It did not throw a code or anything. I'm guessing your belt slipped/broke. It will also cause no spark due to incorrect timing. Fortunately, it's a pretty easy job. Since it sounds normal when cranking, I'm guessing it just slipped due to old belt or failing tensioner.

Last edited by codyj; 12-02-2018 at 10:51 PM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 04:09 PM
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ASD relay working? swap it with another relay next to it. make sure there is voltage at orange wire at all sensors with key in run pos. relay will click when key is turned on. FP primes up? if FP primes up and have good voltage at all sensors then that means that the ASD is working. and it shoudl run start as long as ECM and Fuel pressure and sensor output signals and ign coils etc are all good. have theft or security system? theft light on in dash? should go out in a couple seconds after key in run position.. if not it wont start run. a simple multi tester will determine the referance voltage at sensors. i had to go through all this to eliminte ASD and sensors etc on the 93 in order to find out something has failed in the ECM, so im looking for another ECJ for it now. stil. it somehow died and fried when i started the car without the alternator connected... check wire pin at connector for that sensor, maybe it is loose pin in connector or corroded or break in wire. do continuity test at PCM cvonnect and at sensor wire plug on the sensor output signal wire make sure its not high resistance or open. with the multi tester on a lower ohms setting.. it should be like one ohm or less resistance. ign switch in column could be worn bad too. contacts in it. difficult to diagnose this one.. hav ot check for power to coil packs and to the control modulkes etc to determine ign switch fault wear contact issue. with the 54 code im gonna vote for the sensor, or one of the wires to/from the sensor to the PCM connector being high resistance or open. or corroded pin etc. the sensor signal/output to PCM wire. you can watch for the 0 to 5 volts alternating signal off and on at each sensor with the multi tester and key in run position and rotate engine by hand. at the signal wire in at the PCM to verify sensors working and signal wire condition all way to PCM connector.

Last edited by misterwabbit; 12-03-2018 at 04:24 PM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-04-2019, 11:22 PM
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Did you ever figure this out?

I had this happen to my 97 3.5, and it was simply a disintegrating timing belt that I let go too long. The way I confirmed it was by removing the cam sensor and looking down into the hole while my wife turned the key. I could clearly see that the belt and cam sprocket were not turning.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 11:02 AM
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"Replaced cam and crank sensors
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced fuel regulator
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel pump relay"

Instead of just replacing parts, should have done some diagnosis.
Basic is: Is there spark? Then, if spark, is there fuel? IF both exist, then is spark occurring at the correct crankshaft timing? Is fuel pressure correct?
Since the engine was running/car driving, prolly just one problem... one part to replace...
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