Lateral Link Compatibility - DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums - Dodge Intrepid, Concorde, 300m and Eagle Vision chat
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-31-2019, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Lateral Link Compatibility

I just wanted to know if the adjustable lateral links from the 98 to 04 model years were compatible with the non-adjustable links from 93 to 97.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-31-2019, 01:33 PM
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I see that Rock Auto shows aftermarket adjustable rear lateral links for 1st and 2nd gens. Across several brands, without exception, their part numbers are different for the 1st gen. and 2nd gen. parts. That’s a good indication to me that they aren’t interchangeable. Aftermarket is very adept at consolidating P/Ns (reducing the number of different parts that have to be designed, documented, sourced, and inventoried) whenever possible, and they have not done so.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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So I went on Rock Auto and they do list the adjustable links for the first gen as the Moog K7318. I know that there are two links on each side (front/back). Is the K7318 the same for all four?

Last edited by D725U; 11-01-2019 at 03:12 AM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 07:58 AM
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Probably. Check out the parts PDFs here: https://www.dodgeintrepid.net/114-fi...s-catalog.html

On 2nd gen, from the factory, toe being much more important than camber, one link on each side is adjustable, and one is fixed length, so you adjust toe, and camber is affected but can’t be adjusted separately. Replacing the one fixed length with adjustable (from a salvage vehicle or an aftermarket part) makes toe and camber independently adjustable.

Are you saying that on 1st gens, all four are fixed length from the factory? If so, replacing only one makes toe adjustable, and camber ends up whatever it is without being separately adjustable. You’d need to replace both to be able to adjust toe and camber. If one is already adjustable from the factory, you’d need to replace just the one fixed-length one for complete adjustment ability.


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Last edited by peva; 11-01-2019 at 08:12 AM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Are you saying that on 1st gens, all four are fixed length from the factory?
Yes, and apparently to my knowledge there was no option for a factory adjustable link for the first gens. On my 94, only the front lateral links on each side have an adjustment nut for toe; the rears are fixed (so no camber adjustment).

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If one is already adjustable from the factory, you’d need to replace just the one fixed-length one for complete adjustment ability.
The plan is to replace all four as mine are the original factory links (94 Concorde) and the bushings holding it to the rear crossmember are worn. Further, I want to have the option to adjust camber.

Just to note that there are two parts numbers for the 94 links: front is 4582525 and rear is 4582548. All I need to know is if the Moog K7318 replaces all four links before I proceed, since I originally assumed that the second gen adjustable were interchangeable with the first gens.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 04:56 PM
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1st gen 1993-1997 cars have one Adjustable Lateral Link and one Non-Adjustable Lateral Link per side just like the 2nd gens. The adjustable one is the one closest to the rear of the car.

If you want to be able to adjust Camber you'll need to get two adjustable lateral links from RockAuto and replace the pair that are on the front. If you want to get all new ones due to worn bushings/rust/whatever.....just buy 4x of the adjustable ones and replace all 4 of the ones you have now. You'll be able to adjust both Camber/Toe with the 4 new adjustable lateral links.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
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...Just to note that there are two parts numbers for the 94 links: front is 4582525 and rear is 4582548...
A little trivia: The 2nd gen. parts pdf’s show the frontward rear lateral links as being adjustable and the rearward ones as fixed (non-adjustable). Yet every actual 2nd gen. car I ever looked at had them at the opposite positions. Not that it matters - the car doesn’t care.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 01:21 AM
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I remember in the 1st gen manual they were reversed also when I replaced on of my lateral links. Just made it the same length as the one I took off and it was fine... It's just a simple threaded bar with two bolt holes.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead an ordered the K7318 from Rock Auto. They only had four left.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-04-2019, 10:56 PM
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Not sure on stock ride height, but on the two lowered First G LH I have dealt with we ran -1.0 camber all the way around no issues. We did the double adjustable lateral links and adjustable bolts up front.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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So I ran into a problem with the rearmost adjustable links. Apparently there is no clearance to remove the giant bolts that hold those links in place as the gas tank is in the way. In talking with my local indy mechanic, the only option is to drop the tank, which also involves removing the rear crossmember. Further, the bolt that goes to the rear driver knuckle is seized in. The front links went in without a hitch.

For those who have done this upgrade, is there a way to remove those bolts with the gas tank still in place?
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 01:41 AM
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Same problem on 2nd gen., except you only need to drop the tank 2 or 3 inches and not have to disconnect everything to get the bolt out on the one side - may or may not be as simple on 1st gen. Of course easier if tank mostly empty. If you do take the bolt out, put it back in in the opposite direction in case you ever need to remove it again so you won’t have to drop the tank.

Also - take the opportunity to inspect the tank straps for heavy corrosion damage and needing replacing. Not unusual for them to be just about rusted in two on 2nd gen. depending on if car has been in rust belt most of its life. I would think the 1st gens. would have the same problem, maybe worse due to age.


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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Also - take the opportunity to inspect the tank straps for heavy corrosion damage and needing replacing.
Straps are good, but the heat shield has rusted away in some spots. I will remove it if I decide to continue with this project.

The fuel filler hose has tons of corrosion, but is fortunately not leaking or causing an EVAP code. If I can snag an OEM unit I'll change that out. I've invested a bit over the years in rust repair/undercoating as I still daily drive the car.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2019, 09:49 PM
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Wanna say I dropped the rear cradle/member vs moving the gas tank when I did mine.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-02-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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So you detached the links from the rear knuckles and then removed the bolts that hold the rear crossmember to the body? Trying to visualize this.
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